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Evening sun

Up and Down

20 mins

Seepage

The biggest crag in the dale was once popular, and routes like Behemoth and La Chute were amongst the top routes of their day. The place now sees few visitors and the grass has taken over on many of the routes. Recently, a number of the old rotten pegs have been replaced with bolts, maybe the crag will see a much deserved renaissance. Guidebook page 250.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Ringing Chimney 10m. The wide crack on the far left-hand end of the buttress.		D
2	Hammy Hamster's Last Rites A poor loose route on the left.	Loose	E3 5c
3	Chiming Crack The line follows a series of ringing flakes left of the cutaway of Hemmingway's Horror. Climb up to the bulge and pull into the...	1 Stars Strong	E4 6a
4	Dangerous Liaisons A gap-filler with some good powerful climbing. Nearly a sport route at 7b. Climb the wall to a peg. Two bolts on the wall above...	1 Stars Strong	E5 6b
5	Hemmingway's Horror The original line up this section wanders a bit but has some good moves. Gain the cutaway then climb the right-hand side to the...	1 Stars	E2 5c
6	Te Deum 15m. Loose, neglected and without its crucial peg. The bulge and hanging crack right of the final chimney.	Loose	E3 5b
7	Carillon Crack The steeply undercut crack is savage. Gain the cutaway on its left side. Pull up into the left-hand crack and climb it.	1 Stars Strong	E3 5c
8	Silent Storm A filler-in that gives better climbing than its neighbours. From the centre of the cutaway, pull over the bulge (runner in...	1 Stars Strong Pumpy	E5 6a
9	Carol's Crack More beefy climbing up the crack which leaves the right-hand side of the cutaway. Approach direct then thug away.	1 Stars Pumpy	E3 5c
10	The Importance of Being Ernest A thin crack at the start leads to the wall right of Hemmingway.		E4 6a
11	The Bellringer The broken flakes and cracks.	Loose	E2 5c
12	Vapour Stream Direct over the double overlap. It originally had a single peg.		E4 6a
13	La Belle Age The crucial pegs have been replaced by bolts. 1 user comment		E5 6b
14	En Masse Descendre Move left over the bulge from In Bulk and climb the desperate wall. The crucial pegs have been replaced with bolts. 1 user comment	1 Stars Fluttery	E6 6b
15	In Bulk Climb the big flake of the original start to St. Paul then move up to a slim groove (bolt). Pull up and right to gain a short... 1 user comment	2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery	E6 6b
16	Leviathan A serious undertaking. Start up St. Paul Direct to the ledge. Climb through the bulge above to gain a short crack. Move right...	1 Stars Technical Fluttery	E5 6b
17	St. Paul Direct One of the few easier routes on the buttress but still quite an undertaking. It originally started on the left (In Bulk) and...	1 Stars Loose	E3 6a
18	Paulliac The slim pillar between the two main crack-systems via a tenuous line of tiny grooves and overlaps. Start up St. Paul Direct to...	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	7c
19	Behemoth The finest route in WCJ has a hard start. Once past this, the route follows a superb, sustained finger and hand crack. Climb... 1 user comment	3 Stars Pumpy	E5 6b
20	That'll Do Nicely The pegs have gone making this much more serious than it used to be - it has not been re-led. Climb the lower wall past the... 1 user comment	Pumpy Fluttery Loose	E5 6b
21	St. Paul 35m. One of the few easier routes on the buttress but still a hard undertaking especially since suffering a rock fall which... 1 user comment	2 Stars	E3 5c
22	The Treadmill Tackle the steep right-hand side of the buttress starting at a small hole in the loose wall. Climb up left into a left-facing...	1 Stars Technical Loose	7b
23	Fort Knox Direct Climb to the roof and move right before powering through it. Climb the wall, bulge and loose flake-crack to a lower-off. It has...	1 Stars Technical Loose	E5
24	Warhead Start up Crumbling Cracks (nasty) then move right to gain a crack on the wall. Old pegs.	Loose	E3 6a
25	Fire on Water A good and powerful route that only requires gear for the section shared with The Alien. Climb up to a scoop (as for Alien)...	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b+
26	The Alien The second-best route on Central Buttress has a superb crux section, which is hard, but short-lived. Climb up to a scoop, then... 1 user comment	2 Stars Pumpy	E4 6b
27	Fort Knox 28m. Another impressive line with suspect rock. Gain a hanging groove left of a roof and climb it to the main break. Move right...	Fluttery Loose	E5 6a
28	Aliens Start up Alien, but break right onto the wall. The middle section shares some ground with a route called White Fright, E6 which...	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	E6 6c
29	The Troll A neglected easier route which has some loose rock. Start below a roof, down and left of the big flake of Crumbling Cracks. 1)...	Loose	E2 5c
30	Knuckle Knocker A fine crack-climb, spoilt by its start. The loss of a crucial block has made it hard. Start below a long, thin roof. Climb up... 2 user comments	1 Stars Loose	E3 5c
31	Crumbling Cracks 28m. Well named and best avoided. If your valour overcomes your wisdom then follow the flake in its entirety to a belay tree.	Loose	HVS 4c
32	War Scary climbing on loose rock up the parallel line to Knuckle Knocker.	Loose	E5 6a
33	Squatter's Rights 28m. The big flake to the right of CC is also best avoided.	Loose	HVS 4c
34	Aftervision Start up a vegetated crack then move right around a small roof.Hairy Legs, E3 6a, goes left around the roof to a short...	Loose	E2 5c
35	The Chain Gang From the break, pull over to gain a hanging corner. This leads to an old lower-off.	Loose	E5 6a
36	Cool Hand Luke The best of this bunch. From the break, pull over to gain a hanging crack and climb this.	1 Stars Pumpy Loose	E5 6b
37	Disparagement From the break, gain the hanging groove and climb it.	Pumpy Loose	E5 6a
38	Time Warp Traverse right along the break and pull over into the right-most hanging groove.	Loose	E4 6b
39	Fatal Attraction Start up Sox but break left up the wall.	Loose	E5 6a
40	Fatal Hesitation Direct from Fatal Attraction to the lower-off on La Chute.	Technical Fluttery Loose	E6 6c
41	Sox A counter-diagonal to La Chute, leading to a fine finish. Start left of a tree, and climb past a bolt to the break. Traverse... 1 user comment	1 Stars Pumpy	E5 6a
42	Hairy Legs 22m. originally started up a long crack but this has been covered by the ivy. Instead climb Heatwave to the base of its corner....	Technical	E3 6a
43	La Chute The original line on this section has some good climbing, the old gear has been replaced by bolts. Start below Coldity Groove,... 1 user comment	1 Stars Pumpy	E5 6b
44	La Route A fine climb with a crucial hidden hold on the crux. Climb La Chute to the break and continue direct above up a flake-crack....	1 Stars Technical	E4 6a
45	Heatwave 25m. Climb the lower wall to a ledge. Traverse left then pull up into a corner and climb it to a tree belay.	Loose	VS 4c
46	Coldity Groove The long groove-line is reached by a hard pull from below. Use the lower-off on La Route.	Pumpy	E3 5c
47	White Fright 25m. A lonely lead up the steep wall right of The Alien. Seldom climbed and in need of a clean before an ascent. Two poor pegs...	1 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery	E6 6b
48	Coldity Crack The crack and groove on the right, to a leftward exit.		E1 5b

Central Buttress

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