Central Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
20 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Sheltered

The biggest crag in the dale was once popular, and routes like Behemoth and La Chute were amongst the top routes of their day. The place now sees few visitors and the grass has taken over on many of the routes. Recently, a number of the old rotten pegs have been replaced with bolts, maybe the crag will see a much deserved renaissance.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ringing Chimney
10m. The wide crack on the far left-hand end of the buttress.
 D
2
Tiddle-de-Dum
The extreme left-hand side of the wall.
 6c
3
Te Deum
Loose ground leads to a short crack higher in the wall.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E3 5b
4
Hammy Hamster's Last Rites
Climb the slim groove to the bulge then swing into the left-hand crack above.
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
5
Chiming Crack
The line follows a series of ringing flakes left of the cutaway of Hemmingway's Horror. Climb up to the bulge and pull into the...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 6a
6
Dangerous Liaisons
Some good powerful climbing. Nearly a sport route at 7b. Climb the wall to a peg. Two bolts on the wall above are both...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5 6b
7
Hemmingway's Horror
The original line up this section wanders a bit but has some good moves. Gain the cutaway then climb the right-hand side to the...
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
8
Carillon Crack
The steeply undercut crack is savage. Gain the cutaway on its left side. Pull up into the left-hand crack and climb it.
 
1 Stars
Strong
E3 5c
9
Silent Storm
A filler-in that gives better climbing than its neighbours. From the centre of the cutaway, pull over the bulge (runner in...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6a
10
Carol's Crack
More beefy climbing up the crack which leaves the right-hand side of the cutaway. Approach direct then thug away.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
11
The Importance of Being Ernest
Climb the flake then move up and left to tackle the wall.
 E4 6a
12
The Bellringer
Climb the flake then traverse right and move up to the flake-crack which leads to the top.
 
Loose
E2 5c
13
It Tolls for Thee
Direct up the wall right of the flake.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c+
14
Vapour Stream
Direct over the double overlap.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
15
La Belle Age
Mostly bolted but still bold.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E6 6b
16
En Masse Descendre
Move left over the bulge from In Bulk and climb the desperate wall. The crucial pegs have been replaced with bolts.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
17
In Bulk
Climb the big flake of the original start to St. Paul then move up to a slim groove (bolt). Pull up and right to gain a short...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
18
Leviathan
A serious undertaking. Start up St. Paul Direct to the ledge. Climb through the bulge above to gain a short crack. Move right...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
19
St. Paul Direct
One of the few easier routes on the buttress but still quite an undertaking. It originally started on the left (In Bulk) and...
 
1 Stars
Loose
E3 6a
20
Paulliac
The slim pillar between the two main crack-systems via a tenuous line of tiny grooves and overlaps. Start up St. Paul Direct to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
21
Behemoth
The finest route in WCJ has a hard start. Once past this, the route follows a superb, sustained finger and hand crack. Climb...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
22
St. Paul
35m. One of the few easier routes on the buttress but still a hard undertaking especially since suffering a rock fall which...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E3 5c
23
That'll Do Nicely
The pegs have gone making this much more serious than it used to be - it has not been re-led. Climb the lower wall past the...
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6b
24
The Treadmill
Tackle the steep right-hand side of the buttress starting at a small hole in the loose wall. Climb up left into a left-facing...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
7b
25
Fort Knox Direct
Climb to the roof and move right before powering through it. Climb the wall, bulge and flake-crack to a lower-off. Fort Knox,...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
26
The Troll
Climb to the roof, pull right around this and follow the grooves above to the top. Loose and neglected.
 
Loose
E3 6a
27
Crumbling Cracks
Climb the flake then wander left to the wide gully. Thrash up here to the top.
 
Loose
HVS 4b
28
Squatter's Rights
Start up Crumbling Cracks then tackle the wide crack above.
 
Loose
HVS 4c
29
Fort Knox
28m. Another impressive line with suspect rock. Gain a hanging groove left of a roof and climb it to the main break. Move right...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6a
30
My Fickle Resolve
A bolted route starting up clean rock right of the loose flake of Crumbling Cracks. Contains some of the old route Warhead.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
31
Une Jour Parfait
From the start of Fickle Resolve, pull up the right-hand bolt line.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
32
Warhead
Start up Crumbling Cracks (nasty) then move right to gain a crack on the wall. Old pegs.
 
Loose
E3 6a
33
Fire on Water
A good and powerful route that only requires gear for the section shared with The Alien. Climb up to a scoop (as for Alien)...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
34
The Alien
The second best route on Central Buttress has a superb crux section, which is hard, but short-lived. Climb up to a scoop, then...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6b
35
Aliens
Start up Alien, but break right onto the wall. The middle section shares some ground with a route called White Fright, E6 which...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6c
36
Knuckle Knocker
A fine crack-climb, spoilt by its start. The loss of a crucial block has made it hard. Start below a long, thin roof. Climb up...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
E3 5c
37
War
Scary climbing on loose rock up the parallel line to Knuckle Knocker.
 
Loose
E5 6a
38
Freedom is Insane
A tight line up the rib left of the ivy.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
39
Hairy Legs
Start up the bolts of Deja Vu, but head up left to a small roof. Pull left around this to a short groove.
 
Loose
E3 6a
40
Aftervision
Start up the bolts of Deja Vu then move up l;eft to a small roof. Pull right around this.
 
Loose
E2 5c
41
Deja Vu
A long pitch up the wall right of the ivy.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
42
Heatwave
Start up Deja Vu but pull up right to gain the vegetated corner. Negelcted and seldom climbed..
 
Loose
HVS 5a
43
No Chains on Me
Follow the bolts to a short hanging groove and arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
44
The Chain Gang
From the break, pull over to gain a hanging corner.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
6c+
45
Escape Artist
A hard direct line through with tricky moves above the bulge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
46
Cool Hand Luke
Traverse right from Escape Artist then pull over to gain a hanging crack.
 
Pumpy
Loose
E5 6b
47
Disparagement
Traverse right from Escape Artist to gain the hanging groove and climb it.
 
Pumpy
Loose
E5 6a
48
Time Warp
Traverse right from Escape Artist and pull over into the right-most hanging groove.
 
Loose
E4 6b
49
Fatal Hesitation
A direct line now with a new lower section connecting with the original hard upper wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
50
Fatal Attraction
Start up a broken crack system then move up left across the wall and tackle the bulge above on its left-hand side.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
51
White Fright
25m. A lonely lead up the steep wall right of The Alien. Seldom climbed and in need of a clean before an ascent. Two poor pegs...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
52
Sox
A counter-diagonal to La Chute, leading to a fine finish. Start left of a tree, and climb Fatal Attraction to the break....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
53
La Brute
A direct line to the groove of La Chute then the bulges above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
54
La Chute
The original line on this section has some good climbing. Start below Coldity Groove, but move left and follow a groove to a...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
55
La Route
A fine climb. Climb La Chute to the break and continue direct above up a flake-crack. Move right into a groove and climb direct...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
56
Coldity Groove
The long groove-line is reached by a hard pull from below. Use the lower-off on La Route.
 
Pumpy
E3 5c
57
Coldity Crack
The crack and groove on the right, to a leftward exit.
 E1 5b
58
C'est Plastique
An eliminate crossing the next route.
 
Technical
6c
59
Plastic Wonder
Follow the diagonal line to the top.
 VS 4c
60
Plastic Blinkers
A vague crack/groove left of the corner.
 HVS 5b
61
Gwendoline
The left-hand corner of the pinnacle.
 HVS 5a
62
Dis-orientated
The thin wall right of the pinnacle.
 
Technical
6b+
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Rhyme Crime
    "Changed from E4 6a to 7a+, no votes" 17/Sep

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

    Fledgling Flakes
    "Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

    Salar
    "Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee ..." 07/Aug

    Hot Fun Closing
    "Re-equipped recently." 03/Jul

    Let the Tribe Increase
    "Went on Tribes on Saturday 28th June 2008. Due to the snapped off hold referred ..." 01/Jul

    Too Old to be Bold
    "Appears to have been rebolted recently" 08/Jun

    The Sissy
    "Snapped a small spike foothold off this at the weekend - sorry, was using it for..." 30/Jan

    Rubicon
    "Hey now! That last move on the roof is quite big if you don't fancy the small ho..." 28/Aug top50

    The Inch Test
    "Sorry, still talking about Three Spheres there, not the Inch Test" 16/Jul

    Behemoth
    "superb.clean.peg at the start still ok and can be backed up." 11/Jun

    The Inch Test
    "Ex project called Three Spheres" 28/May

    Mandrake
    "I have replaced the peg.The headwall offers fun climbing on clean rock.Easy for ..." 08/May

    Salar
    "Definately at the bottom end of 8a (more like 7c+) can't believe this once got 8..." 03/May

    A Bigger Splash
    "Has the sharpest hold in the universe at the top" 26/Apr

    The Dole 1989
    "crucial hold above bulge now very tiny, making the route very unbalanced, f6c up..." 22/Sep

    A Miller's Tale
    "Bolt it! Isn't it time we sorted out W-c-J so that it is a decent place to go cl..." 17/Sep

    A Miller's Tale
    "Is it worth bolting if all the good climbing is on the V4 boulder prob to the ho..." 12/Sep

    Ping
    "Thought the middle section was a bit goey for HVS with the gear placements a bit..." 02/Aug

    Dead Tree Crack
    "Fine little route, well protected,solid 5b moves but...the top is a bank of very..." 21/Jun

    Ping
    "first limestone route of the year thought the gear looked rubbish didnt trust it..." 21/May

    Eat the Rich
    "Easy 7c." 01/May

    Truly Awesome
    "bear in mind that it loses hold regularly!!!" 23/Mar

    The Bastard
    "Repeated by Steve McClure a few years ago and Rich Simpson recently" 23/Dec

    The Bastard
    "Has it had a repeat yet? John Welford is he strong! Stu" 21/Dec

    The Bastard
    "Love the name and the aid name ... so funny" 20/Dec

    Salar
    "the best 8a at rubicon. bottom end of the grade though, easier than sissy and da..." 10/Nov

    Salar
    "I've heard mootings of 7c+ by people who haven't done it. I think its fair at 8a..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Thought pretty solid 8a. Tried it for a while with the big move but did it 2nd g..." 19/Sep

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