Central Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Evening sun
20 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Sheltered

The biggest crag in the dale was once popular, and routes like Behemoth and La Chute were amongst the top routes of their day. The place now sees few visitors and the grass has taken over on many of the routes. Recently, a number of the old rotten pegs have been replaced with bolts, maybe the crag will see a much deserved renaissance.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ringing Chimney
10m. The wide crack on the far left-hand end of the buttress.
 D
2
Hammy Hamster's Last Rites
A poor loose route on the left.
 
Loose
E3 5c
3
Chiming Crack
The line follows a series of ringing flakes left of the cutaway of Hemmingway's Horror. Climb up to the bulge and pull into the...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 6a
4
Dangerous Liaisons
A gap-filler with some good powerful climbing. Nearly a sport route at 7b. Climb the wall to a peg. Two bolts on the wall above...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5 6b
5
Hemmingway's Horror
The original line up this section wanders a bit but has some good moves. Gain the cutaway then climb the right-hand side to the...
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
6
Te Deum
15m. Loose, neglected and without its crucial peg. The bulge and hanging crack right of the final chimney.
 
Loose
E3 5b
7
Carillon Crack
The steeply undercut crack is savage. Gain the cutaway on its left side. Pull up into the left-hand crack and climb it.
 
1 Stars
Strong
E3 5c
8
Silent Storm
A filler-in that gives better climbing than its neighbours. From the centre of the cutaway, pull over the bulge (runner in...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6a
9
Carol's Crack
More beefy climbing up the crack which leaves the right-hand side of the cutaway. Approach direct then thug away.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
10
The Importance of Being Ernest
A thin crack at the start leads to the wall right of Hemmingway.
 E4 6a
11
The Bellringer
The broken flakes and cracks.
 
Loose
E2 5c
12
Vapour Stream
Direct over the double overlap. It originally had a single peg.
 E4 6a
13
La Belle Age
The crucial pegs have been replaced by bolts.
1 user comment
 E5 6b
14
En Masse Descendre
Move left over the bulge from In Bulk and climb the desperate wall. The crucial pegs have been replaced with bolts.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
15
In Bulk
Climb the big flake of the original start to St. Paul then move up to a slim groove (bolt). Pull up and right to gain a short...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
16
Leviathan
A serious undertaking. Start up St. Paul Direct to the ledge. Climb through the bulge above to gain a short crack. Move right...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
17
St. Paul Direct
One of the few easier routes on the buttress but still quite an undertaking. It originally started on the left (In Bulk) and...
 
1 Stars
Loose
E3 6a
18
Paulliac
The slim pillar between the two main crack-systems via a tenuous line of tiny grooves and overlaps. Start up St. Paul Direct to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
19
Behemoth
The finest route in WCJ has a hard start. Once past this, the route follows a superb, sustained finger and hand crack. Climb...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
20
That'll Do Nicely
The pegs have gone making this much more serious than it used to be - it has not been re-led. Climb the lower wall past the...
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6b
21
St. Paul
35m. One of the few easier routes on the buttress but still a hard undertaking especially since suffering a rock fall which...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E3 5c
22
The Treadmill
Tackle the steep right-hand side of the buttress starting at a small hole in the loose wall. Climb up left into a left-facing...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
7b
23
Fort Knox Direct
Climb to the roof and move right before powering through it. Climb the wall, bulge and loose flake-crack to a lower-off. It has...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
E5
24
Warhead
Start up Crumbling Cracks (nasty) then move right to gain a crack on the wall. Old pegs.
 
Loose
E3 6a
25
Fire on Water
A good and powerful route that only requires gear for the section shared with The Alien. Climb up to a scoop (as for Alien)...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
26
The Alien
The second-best route on Central Buttress has a superb crux section, which is hard, but short-lived. Climb up to a scoop, then...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6b
27
Fort Knox
28m. Another impressive line with suspect rock. Gain a hanging groove left of a roof and climb it to the main break. Move right...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6a
28
Aliens
Start up Alien, but break right onto the wall. The middle section shares some ground with a route called White Fright, E6 which...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6c
29
The Troll
A neglected easier route which has some loose rock. Start below a roof, down and left of the big flake of Crumbling Cracks. 1)...
 
Loose
E2 5c
30
Knuckle Knocker
A fine crack-climb, spoilt by its start. The loss of a crucial block has made it hard. Start below a long, thin roof. Climb up...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
E3 5c
31
Crumbling Cracks
28m. Well named and best avoided. If your valour overcomes your wisdom then follow the flake in its entirety to a belay tree.
 
Loose
HVS 4c
32
War
Scary climbing on loose rock up the parallel line to Knuckle Knocker.
 
Loose
E5 6a
33
Squatter's Rights
28m. The big flake to the right of CC is also best avoided.
 
Loose
HVS 4c
34
Aftervision
Start up a vegetated crack then move right around a small roof.Hairy Legs, E3 6a, goes left around the roof to a short...
 
Loose
E2 5c
35
The Chain Gang
From the break, pull over to gain a hanging corner. This leads to an old lower-off.
 
Loose
E5 6a
36
Cool Hand Luke
The best of this bunch. From the break, pull over to gain a hanging crack and climb this.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E5 6b
37
Disparagement
From the break, gain the hanging groove and climb it.
 
Pumpy
Loose
E5 6a
38
Time Warp
Traverse right along the break and pull over into the right-most hanging groove.
 
Loose
E4 6b
39
Fatal Attraction
Start up Sox but break left up the wall.
 
Loose
E5 6a
40
Fatal Hesitation
Direct from Fatal Attraction to the lower-off on La Chute.
 
Technical
Fluttery
Loose
E6 6c
41
Sox
A counter-diagonal to La Chute, leading to a fine finish. Start left of a tree, and climb past a bolt to the break. Traverse...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
42
Hairy Legs
22m. originally started up a long crack but this has been covered by the ivy. Instead climb Heatwave to the base of its corner....
 
Technical
E3 6a
43
La Chute
The original line on this section has some good climbing, the old gear has been replaced by bolts. Start below Coldity Groove,...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
44
La Route
A fine climb with a crucial hidden hold on the crux. Climb La Chute to the break and continue direct above up a flake-crack....
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
45
Heatwave
25m. Climb the lower wall to a ledge. Traverse left then pull up into a corner and climb it to a tree belay.
 
Loose
VS 4c
46
Coldity Groove
The long groove-line is reached by a hard pull from below. Use the lower-off on La Route.
 
Pumpy
E3 5c
47
White Fright
25m. A lonely lead up the steep wall right of The Alien. Seldom climbed and in need of a clean before an ascent. Two poor pegs...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
48
Coldity Crack
The crack and groove on the right, to a leftward exit.
 E1 5b
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

    Fledgling Flakes
    "Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

    Salar
    "Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee ..." 07/Aug

    Hot Fun Closing
    "Re-equipped recently." 03/Jul

    Let the Tribe Increase
    "Went on Tribes on Saturday 28th June 2008. Due to the snapped off hold referred ..." 01/Jul

    Too Old to be Bold
    "Appears to have been rebolted recently" 08/Jun

    The Sissy
    "Snapped a small spike foothold off this at the weekend - sorry, was using it for..." 30/Jan

    Rubicon
    "Hey now! That last move on the roof is quite big if you don't fancy the small ho..." 28/Aug top50

    The Inch Test
    "Sorry, still talking about Three Spheres there, not the Inch Test" 16/Jul

    Behemoth
    "superb.clean.peg at the start still ok and can be backed up." 11/Jun

    The Inch Test
    "Ex project called Three Spheres" 28/May

    Mandrake
    "I have replaced the peg.The headwall offers fun climbing on clean rock.Easy for ..." 08/May

    Salar
    "Definately at the bottom end of 8a (more like 7c+) can't believe this once got 8..." 03/May

    A Bigger Splash
    "Has the sharpest hold in the universe at the top" 26/Apr

    The Dole 1989
    "crucial hold above bulge now very tiny, making the route very unbalanced, f6c up..." 22/Sep

    A Miller's Tale
    "Bolt it! Isn't it time we sorted out W-c-J so that it is a decent place to go cl..." 17/Sep

    A Miller's Tale
    "Is it worth bolting if all the good climbing is on the V4 boulder prob to the ho..." 12/Sep

    Ping
    "Thought the middle section was a bit goey for HVS with the gear placements a bit..." 02/Aug

    Dead Tree Crack
    "Fine little route, well protected,solid 5b moves but...the top is a bank of very..." 21/Jun

    Ping
    "first limestone route of the year thought the gear looked rubbish didnt trust it..." 21/May

    Eat the Rich
    "Easy 7c." 01/May

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