Upper Circle

Adjacent Areas
< Jackdaw Point  |  Ping Pong Area >

Trad
Morning sun
20 mins
Level
Sheltered

The ring of cliffs along the northern slopes of the dale continues from Jackdaw Point, though most offer little quality climbing, until a dramatic bulging section, which has some highly technical sport routes. Right of this is a pleasant wall with some excellent little routes, which are always quiet. Care is required exiting onto the steep slope above. Guidebook page 230.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Specialist
A hideous starting sequence is needed to gain a hanging corner. It is possible (and a bit pointless) to traverse in above the...
 
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6c
2
Hesitation Dance
10m. The flake and groove to the left of the bulging section.
 E5 6a
3
Pragma
The desperate starting sequence requires a bouldering mat, a stick clip or faith and ability. Easier moves lead to a tricky...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a+
4
Eat the Rich
Start via a big glued-jug, then make crimpy and snatchy moves to a belay underneath the roof. The original lower-off was above...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
7c
5
The Three Spheres
A tough and bouldery micro-route with some excellent fingery moves.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b
6
The Inch Test
A super-crimpy and technical route. Originally given E7 7a which was converted to 8a, but really it has always been harder than...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a+
7
Psychic Emulator
Make hard moves to the break. Either finish direct or step left and climb the groove on the left.
 
Technical
E3 6b
8
Sour Grapes
A boulder-problem start leads to the break. Finish more easily up the groove above.
 
Technical
E1 6a
9
Splinter in the Mind's Eye
A boulder problem which becomes a route higher up.
 
Technical
E2 6b
10
Sweet William
A good little route. Climb a thin crack to a roof. Pull over with difficulty and climb to ledges above.
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
11
Western Samoa
The roof right of Sweet William has a hard move at the lip.
 
Reachy
E4 6b
12
Dead Tree Groove
A pleasant groove, typical of the routes on the Upper Circle. Follow the slab rightwards, then finish up the groove above, care...
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
13
Palace of Tyranny
A hugely over-dramatic name. Poor climbing up the left-hand side of the blank, bulging wall right of Dead Tree Groove.
 
Loose
E1 5b
14
Trench Warfare
The right-hand companion to Palace of Tyranny.
 
Loose
E2 5b
15
Sweet FA
Left of the groove of Dead Tree Crack is another smaller groove above a bulge. Reach this from below and right. High in the...
 E1 5b
16
Dead Tree Crack
One of the more popular routes here. It tackles the prominent corner and feels about twice as long as it looks. The prickly...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
17
Reptar on Ice
15m. The wall left of Christmas Cracks may have some loose rock.
 
Loose
E1 5b
18
Christmas Cracks
15m. The groove and crack left of a hanging pillar.
 VS 4c
19
Euroman
15m. The groove right of Christmas Cracks leads to the pillar. Pull over this (loose) to finish.
 
Loose
HVS 5a
20
Looking Good
15m. A steep line up the wall right of the pillar, below a big tree. A sideways rest on Euroman is possible but a bit naughty.
 
Pumpy
E4 6a
21
Nidhogg Loves Jormungand
12m. The technical wall directly below the tree has one fine move. A peg in a pocket protects.
 
Technical
E3 6a
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

    Fledgling Flakes
    "Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

    Salar
    "Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee ..." 07/Aug

    Hot Fun Closing
    "Re-equipped recently." 03/Jul

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