Adjacent Areas
< Jackdaw Point | Ping Pong Area >
Trad
Morning sun
Level
20 minsThe ring of cliffs along the northern slopes of the dale continues from Jackdaw Point, though most offer little quality climbing, until a dramatic bulging section, which has some highly technical sport routes. Right of this is a pleasant wall with some excellent little routes, which are always quiet. Care is required exiting onto the steep slope above. Guidebook page 230.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Specialist A hideous starting sequence is needed to gain a hanging corner. It is possible (and a bit pointless) to traverse in above the... | Technical Crimpy | E4 6c |
2 |
Hesitation Dance 10m. The flake and groove to the left of the bulging section. | E5 6a | |
3 |
Pragma The desperate starting sequence requires a bouldering mat, a stick clip or faith and ability. Easier moves lead to a tricky... | 1 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8a+ |
4 |
Eat the Rich Start via a big glued-jug, then make crimpy and snatchy moves to a belay underneath the roof. The original lower-off was above... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 7c |
5 |
The Three Spheres A tough and bouldery micro-route with some excellent fingery moves. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8b |
6 |
The Inch Test A super-crimpy and technical route. Originally given E7 7a which was converted to 8a, but really it has always been harder than... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8a+ |
7 |
Psychic Emulator Make hard moves to the break. Either finish direct or step left and climb the groove on the left. | Technical | E3 6b |
8 |
Sour Grapes A boulder-problem start leads to the break. Finish more easily up the groove above. | Technical | E1 6a |
9 |
Splinter in the Mind's Eye A boulder problem which becomes a route higher up. | Technical | E2 6b |
10 |
Sweet William A good little route. Climb a thin crack to a roof. Pull over with difficulty and climb to ledges above. | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
11 |
Western Samoa The roof right of Sweet William has a hard move at the lip. | Reachy | E4 6b |
12 |
Dead Tree Groove A pleasant groove, typical of the routes on the Upper Circle. Follow the slab rightwards, then finish up the groove above, care... | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
13 |
Palace of Tyranny A hugely over-dramatic name. Poor climbing up the left-hand side of the blank, bulging wall right of Dead Tree Groove. | Loose | E1 5b |
14 |
Trench Warfare The right-hand companion to Palace of Tyranny. | Loose | E2 5b |
15 |
Sweet FA Left of the groove of Dead Tree Crack is another smaller groove above a bulge. Reach this from below and right. High in the... | E1 5b | |
16 |
Dead Tree Crack One of the more popular routes here. It tackles the prominent corner and feels about twice as long as it looks. The prickly... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
17 |
Reptar on Ice 15m. The wall left of Christmas Cracks may have some loose rock. | Loose | E1 5b |
18 |
Christmas Cracks 15m. The groove and crack left of a hanging pillar. | VS 4c | |
19 |
Euroman 15m. The groove right of Christmas Cracks leads to the pillar. Pull over this (loose) to finish. | Loose | HVS 5a |
20 |
Looking Good 15m. A steep line up the wall right of the pillar, below a big tree. A sideways rest on Euroman is possible but a bit naughty. | Pumpy | E4 6a |
21 |
Nidhogg Loves Jormungand 12m. The technical wall directly below the tree has one fine move. A peg in a pocket protects. | Technical | E3 6a |