The Cornice

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The second of the Peak's Cornices is in the form of a single crashing wave of rock which befits its name better than its Chee Dale counterpart. Most of the routes build slowly up the lower wall to hard and strenuous moves around the bulges, often with desperate reaches or powerful pulls to reach the crest. Guidebook page 246.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Bulge 1984
On the far left-hand end of the crag, climb out of a scoop to the break - old thread. Move up left and pull through the final...
 
Strong
E5 6b
2
Alpha Groove
10m. The groove on the far left.
 VD
3
Sting in the Tail
16m. The roof and wall left of Morion.
 E4 6a
4
Incapacity Benefit
A popular warm-up with a long history. Start 6m left of where the path arrives. It starts in roughly the same position as an...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
5
The Dole 1989
Start direct (The Restart) to the first bulge. After that it is standard stuff to the first lower-off; only one hard move but...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
6
Puffy White Flesh
16m. Direct up a groove above the start of Sting in the Tail.
 E2 6a
7
Yorkshire 8b
The first of the hard routes. It is now finished left at the top (easy 8a) instead of the original right-hand finish, which has...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
8
Crystalline
20m. The front face of the pillar left of the main Cornice.
 S
9
The Gully 1933
10m. The grotty gully on the left of the wall.
 
Loose
S 4b
10
Ape Index
Follow Yorkshire 8b to the roof. Step right and make desperate fingery moves upwards to a slightly easier finish.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
8b+
11
The Weakling
One of the few routes which is significantly harder for the tall, the difficulties start at the first main roof.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
12
Bandwagon on Direction
15m. The wall between The Bulge 1984 and the gully via its easiest line.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6a
13
Brachiation Dance Top 50
A classic, up an awesome line on decent holds for the most part. Low-(ish) in the grade. Start direct (Dance Direction) to the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
14
The Free Monster
A fine climb with a chequered history. Start by the stump and climb up the easy stuff until things blank out, once the sight of...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
15
The Auctioneer
An excellent route. Start up Rumble but climb slightly left on pockets and an undercut to a crimpy finish. The full tick...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
16
The Thatcher Years
15m. Good climbing through bulges past a couple of pegs. Two Friends prove crucial under the roof. Finish on top of the crag....
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
E5 6b
17
Rumble in the Jungle
Head up the wall then traverse right along the break until below the big flake. Climb up to this then use a prominent sloper to...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
8a+
18
Monsterosity
A superb pitch. Start up Rumble to its big flake, then climb up right by powerful undercutting. Cross the final roof to join...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
19
Barbarosity
The direct finish to Monsterosity.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
8a+
20
Albatrossity
Strenuous and excellent. Climb the thin initial wall and over the first of the bulges. The middle bulge requires a wing-span to...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
21
Superfly
More hard roofs requiring big spans and powerful moves. The middle roof is what gives the route its name. Above that it is...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
22
Superocity
Start as for Superfly (the original method) or more direct.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
8a+
23
Eclipsed
A hard start leads to an even harder finish requiring a desperate pull on a two finger pocket, a harder replica of the Glue...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Crimpy
8a+
24
The Disillusioned Glue Machine
Well named. Climb to the break then move left to the roof, which is crossed using the V-pockets and a heel-hook. It is easier...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
25
Empire Burlesque
The first of the easier routes at this end of the crag. Climb direct from where Glue Machine heads left using power and finger...
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c+
26
The Nasty Man
Make snappy, crimpy moves to the break. Step left then head up the wall past the big undercut to a hard move on tiny crimps....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7c
27
Goldcrest
Follow The Nasty Man to the break. Then move up to a crimp and make a hard move right. Another hard move gains the break under...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a
28
Sirius
Steep climbing leads to a final hard pull over the top roof which you can either do, or you can't and most can't. Tree belay.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
29
Atilla the Hun
Like most routes on the edges of hard crags, this one is easier and not quite as good as its neighbours. A steep start and roof...
 
Technical
7a+
30
Catch the Rainbow
The final shorter line.
 6c
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  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

    Fledgling Flakes
    "Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

    Salar
    "Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee ..." 07/Aug

    Hot Fun Closing
    "Re-equipped recently." 03/Jul

    Let the Tribe Increase
    "Went on Tribes on Saturday 28th June 2008. Due to the snapped off hold referred ..." 01/Jul

    Too Old to be Bold
    "Appears to have been rebolted recently" 08/Jun

    The Sissy
    "Snapped a small spike foothold off this at the weekend - sorry, was using it for..." 30/Jan

    Rubicon
    "Hey now! That last move on the roof is quite big if you don't fancy the small ho..." 28/Aug

    The Inch Test
    "Sorry, still talking about Three Spheres there, not the Inch Test" 16/Jul

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