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Up and Down

25 mins

Seepage

Dry in the Rain

The second of the Peak's Cornices is in the form of a single crashing wave of rock which befits its name better than its Chee Dale counterpart. Most of the routes build slowly up the lower wall to hard and strenuous moves around the bulges, often with desperate reaches or powerful pulls to reach the crest. Guidebook page 246.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	The Bulge 1984 On the far left-hand end of the crag, climb out of a scoop to the break - old thread. Move up left and pull through the final...	Strong	E5 6b
2	Alpha Groove 10m. The groove on the far left.		VD
3	Sting in the Tail 16m. The roof and wall left of Morion.		E4 6a
4	Incapacity Benefit A popular warm-up with a long history. Start 6m left of where the path arrives. It starts in roughly the same position as an...	2 Stars Pumpy	7a+
5	The Dole 1989 Start direct (The Restart) to the first bulge. After that it is standard stuff to the first lower-off; only one hard move but... 2 user comments	1 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c
6	Puffy White Flesh 16m. Direct up a groove above the start of Sting in the Tail.		E2 6a
7	Yorkshire 8b The first of the hard routes. It is now finished left at the top (easy 8a) instead of the original right-hand finish, which has...	1 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8a
8	Crystalline 20m. The front face of the pillar left of the main Cornice.		S
9	The Gully 1933 10m. The grotty gully on the left of the wall.	Loose	S 4b
10	Ape Index Follow Yorkshire 8b to the roof. Step right and make desperate fingery moves upwards to a slightly easier finish.	1 Stars Strong Crimpy	8b+
11	The Weakling One of the few routes which is significantly harder for the tall, the difficulties start at the first main roof.	2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	7c+
12	Bandwagon on Direction 15m. The wall between The Bulge 1984 and the gully via its easiest line.	Fluttery Loose	E5 6a
13	Brachiation Dance Top 50 A classic, up an awesome line on decent holds for the most part. Low-(ish) in the grade. Start direct (Dance Direction) to the... 3 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	7b+
14	The Free Monster A fine climb with a chequered history. Start by the stump and climb up the easy stuff until things blank out, once the sight of... 2 user comments	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a
15	The Auctioneer An excellent route. Start up Rumble but climb slightly left on pockets and an undercut to a crimpy finish. The full tick...	3 Stars Strong Pumpy Crimpy	8a+
16	The Thatcher Years 15m. Good climbing through bulges past a couple of pegs. Two Friends prove crucial under the roof. Finish on top of the crag.... 1 user comment	Pumpy	E5 6b
17	Rumble in the Jungle Head up the wall then traverse right along the break until below the big flake. Climb up to this then use a prominent sloper to...	3 Stars Reachy Strong	8a+
18	Monsterosity A superb pitch. Start up Rumble to its big flake, then climb up right by powerful undercutting. Cross the final roof to join...	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	8b
19	Barbarosity The direct finish to Monsterosity.	2 Stars Reachy Pumpy	8a+
20	Albatrossity Strenuous and excellent. Climb the thin initial wall and over the first of the bulges. The middle bulge requires a wing-span to... 1 user comment	3 Stars Reachy Strong Pumpy	8a+
21	Superfly More hard roofs requiring big spans and powerful moves. The middle roof is what gives the route its name. Above that it is...	2 Stars Reachy Strong Pumpy	8a+
22	Superocity Start as for Superfly (the original method) or more direct.	2 Stars Reachy	8a+
23	Eclipsed A hard start leads to an even harder finish requiring a desperate pull on a two finger pocket, a harder replica of the Glue...	2 Stars Reachy Strong Crimpy	8a+
24	The Disillusioned Glue Machine Well named. Climb to the break then move left to the roof, which is crossed using the V-pockets and a heel-hook. It is easier...	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a
25	Empire Burlesque The first of the easier routes at this end of the crag. Climb direct from where Glue Machine heads left using power and finger...	1 Stars Strong	7c+
26	The Nasty Man Make snappy, crimpy moves to the break. Step left then head up the wall past the big undercut to a hard move on tiny crimps.... 1 user comment	1 Stars Strong Crimpy	7c
27	Goldcrest Follow The Nasty Man to the break. Then move up to a crimp and make a hard move right. Another hard move gains the break under...	1 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy	8a
28	Sirius Steep climbing leads to a final hard pull over the top roof which you can either do, or you can't and most can't. Tree belay.	1 Stars Technical Strong	7c+
29	Atilla the Hun Like most routes on the edges of hard crags, this one is easier and not quite as good as its neighbours. A steep start and roof...	Technical	7a+
30	Catch the Rainbow The final shorter line.		6c

The Cornice

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