Adjacent Areas
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Sun and Shade
Level
12 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
This buttress has been almost entirely ignored for many years and all the routes should be considered as unclimbable in their present state. The fixed gear which is crucial for most routes, is in a terrible state and much of the rock is terminally loose. If re-bolted the buttress will give a series of intense and powerful sport routes. The descriptions are included to show the lines. Guidebook page 234.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Lammergeyer Twins A once-good route up the scoop is now mostly behind ivy. | Crimpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
2 |
Zob 8m. Overgrown. | E2 6a | |
3 |
As Summers Die A desperate technical problem on which success depended on how flexible you were. Two bolts and a peg show the line. | Technical Strong | 7a+ |
4 |
Part-time Hobby | E2 5b | |
5 |
One Way Reflection The routes started over a bulge to a small hole, then up the wall (bolt) and back right to a break where there was once a... | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E5 6b |
6 |
Aquarian Warriors 10m. Technical wall on left-hand end of crag now lost to the ivy. | Technical Crimpy | E5 6b |
7 |
Final Apocalypse A technical diagonal line started over a steep lower bulge then it went left across a smoother wall and up to the break. The... | E5 6b | |
8 |
The Myth of Masculinity Extremely steep and sustained. The line is indicated by a couple of old pegs. | Strong Pumpy | 7a+ |
9 |
Mr. Puniverse This route shared its start with Myth to its second peg then it broke out left up the wall and over the steep bulges. | Technical Strong | 7a+ |
10 |
The Ego has Landed A direct start to Myth over heaps of bulges. Two bolts and a peg are in place before the final peg on Myth. | Technical Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
11 |
The Amnicolist Spies on the Black Submarine The flakes in the centre of the buttress provided a thoroughly desperate struggle. The original finish headed left to the Myth... | Strong | E5 6b |
12 |
Living with a Porcupine A slightly more friendly route but still the same dubious rock and insubstantial fixed gear. The line is marked in a scoop by a... | Technical | 7a |
13 |
Once upon a Time Again the line is indicated by two bolts and a peg at the break. | Technical Strong | 7a+ |
14 |
Tree Surgeon A left-hand version of Once Upon a Time past a bolt. | Technical Strong | 7b |
15 |
The Fall This one gave extremely technical climbing. Two pegs and a bolt. | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 7c+ |
16 |
Vindicator The final line on the wall, below a prominent undercut. | Reachy Technical Strong | 7c |