Lammergeyer Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
12 mins
Level
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

This buttress has been almost entirely ignored for many years and all the routes should be considered as unclimbable in their present state. The fixed gear which is crucial for most routes, is in a terrible state and much of the rock is terminally loose. If re-bolted the buttress will give a series of intense and powerful sport routes. The descriptions are included to show the lines.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Zob
8m. Overgrown.
 E2 6a
2
Part-time Hobby
 E2 5b
3
Aquarian Warriors
10m. Technical wall on left-hand end of crag now lost to the ivy.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6b
4
The Lammergeyer Twins
A once-good route up the scoop is now mostly behind ivy.
 E5
5
As Summers Die
A desperate technical problem on which success depended on how flexible you were. Two bolts and a peg show the line.
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
6
One Way Reflection
The routes started over a bulge to a small hole, then up the wall (bolt) and back right to a break where there was once a...
 
1 Stars
E5
7
Final Apocalypse
A technical diagonal line started over a steep lower bulge then it went left across a smoother wall and up to the break. The...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a+
8
Pinch an Inch
The direct start to Final Apocalypse packs all its difficulties into the start. The high first bolt would usually be pre...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
9
The Myth of Masculinity
Extremely steep and sustained. The line is indicated by a couple of old pegs.
 
Strong
7a+
10
Mr. Puniverse
This route shared its start with Myth to its second peg then it broke out left up the wall and over the steep bulges.
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
11
The Ego has Landed
A direct start to Myth over heaps of bulges. Two bolts and a peg are in place before the final peg on Myth.
 
Technical
Strong
7b+
12
The Amnicolist Spies on the Black Submarine
The flakes in the centre of the buttress provided a thoroughly desperate struggle. The original finish headed left to the Myth...
 
Strong
E5
13
Living with a Porcupine
A slightly more friendly route but still the same dubious rock and insubstantial fixed gear. The line is marked in a scoop by a...
 
Technical
7a
14
Once upon a Time
Again the line is indicated by two bolts and a peg at the break.
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
15
Tree Surgeon
A left-hand version of Once Upon a Time past a bolt.
 
Technical
Strong
7b
16
The Fall
Interesting climbing on undercuts.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
17
Vindicator
The final line on the wall, below a prominent undercut.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+