Lammergeyer Buttress

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Trad
Sun and Shade
12 mins
Level
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

This buttress has been almost entirely ignored for many years and all the routes should be considered as unclimbable in their present state. The fixed gear which is crucial for most routes, is in a terrible state and much of the rock is terminally loose. If re-bolted the buttress will give a series of intense and powerful sport routes. The descriptions are included to show the lines.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Lammergeyer Twins
A once-good route up the scoop is now mostly behind ivy.
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
2
Zob
8m. Overgrown.
 E2 6a
3
As Summers Die
A desperate technical problem on which success depended on how flexible you were. Two bolts and a peg show the line.
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
4
Part-time Hobby
 E2 5b
5
One Way Reflection
The routes started over a bulge to a small hole, then up the wall (bolt) and back right to a break where there was once a...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
Aquarian Warriors
10m. Technical wall on left-hand end of crag now lost to the ivy.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6b
7
Final Apocalypse
A technical diagonal line started over a steep lower bulge then it went left across a smoother wall and up to the break. The...
 E5 6b
8
The Myth of Masculinity
Extremely steep and sustained. The line is indicated by a couple of old pegs.
 
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
9
Mr. Puniverse
This route shared its start with Myth to its second peg then it broke out left up the wall and over the steep bulges.
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
10
The Ego has Landed
A direct start to Myth over heaps of bulges. Two bolts and a peg are in place before the final peg on Myth.
 
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
11
The Amnicolist Spies on the Black Submarine
The flakes in the centre of the buttress provided a thoroughly desperate struggle. The original finish headed left to the Myth...
 
Strong
E5 6b
12
Living with a Porcupine
A slightly more friendly route but still the same dubious rock and insubstantial fixed gear. The line is marked in a scoop by a...
 
Technical
7a
13
Once upon a Time
Again the line is indicated by two bolts and a peg at the break.
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
14
Tree Surgeon
A left-hand version of Once Upon a Time past a bolt.
 
Technical
Strong
7b
15
The Fall
This one gave extremely technical climbing. Two pegs and a bolt.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
16
Vindicator
The final line on the wall, below a prominent undercut.
 
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7c
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  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

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