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Rubicon Wall

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trad lots of sun! level
10 mins
seepage dry in rain
[Rubicon Wall, 7 kb]

The best buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the short sweeping wall of Rubicon. Easily situated near the Cressbrook end of the dale, Rubicon has become a popular bouldering mecca as well as a major forcing ground for hard sport routes. Guidebook page 152.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Alimoany
8m. The steep crack leads with some difficulty, to a ledge. Follow the bolts above to the lower-off.
 powerful7b
2
Honeymoon Blues
10m. A route of two halves which gives great climbing. Weave around the lower wall below some threads in the bulge. Reach up to...
 2 startechnicalreachyE5 6b
3
Salar
8m. Climb a groove (peg) then clip the bolt above and begin to imagine how you might climb past it. Horrendous. This routes...
8 user comments
 1 starpowerfultechnicalfingery8a+
4
Lapin
15m. The two flakes lead to the upper break. Climb the wall above to a tree belay.
 looseE3 5c
5
Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
Overgrown line right of the flakes of Lapin.
 E3 5c
6
Hare
16m. Poor climbing just right of the ivy. Loose and worth ignoring.
 looseE3 5c
7
Changing Fortunes
16m. A one-move-wonder. Crossing the bulge past the peg is the hard bit. After that finish rightwards up Dragonflight.
 powerfulreachyE4 6b
8
Chairs Missing
16m. A reachy move past a bulge provide the difficulties. Similar to its left-hand neighbour but a bit easier.
 1 starpowerfulreachyE4 6b
9
A Tall Story
16m. The third of the trio of reachy problems requires the longest arms.
 1 starpowerfulreachyE5 6c
10
Dragonflight
16m. A brilliant little route which provides Rubicon's easiest genuine challenge. The climbing is delicate and exposed but...
1 user comment
 2 starscaryE3 5c
11
Jezebel
18m. A harder version of Dragonflight. Boulder up to a break right of Dragonflight then clip the bolt above. Make hard moves...
 2 startechnicalscaryE5 6a
12
Kingfisher
17m. A direct line with one hideously technical move and requiring a baby-bouncer approach to protect. Clip the bolt on Jezebel...
 2 startechnicalfingeryE5 6c
13
Jaws
16m. This early Fawcett offering has some superb climbing. Climb up to a good hold by a peg. Stand up above the peg and...
 2 startechnicalscaryE5 6b
14
Plectrum Maxilla Direct
18m. Serious and bouldery moves are required to reach a protruding peg on the bulging wall. Finish direct to the top break then...
 1 startechnicalstrenuousscaryE7 6c
15
Caviar
12m. A sport route for boulderers which has become a popular 'first 8a+' although it isn't an easy 8a+. Your first target is a...
 2 starpowerfultechnicalfingery8a+
16
Eugenics
10m. Intensely fingery and technical climbing. Unrepeated since the loss of a crucial hold.
 1 startechnicalfingery8a+
17
Let the Tribe Increase
10m. Very technical and sequency up an old bolt ladder. Probably had enough ascents to have become reasonably stable although a...
7 user comments
 1 startechnicalfingery7c+
18
The Dangerous Brothers
10m. Three bolts show the way to some tat in the break. There are two methods of doing the crux, one for crimpers and one for...
 1 startechnicalfingery8a
19
Too Old to be Bold
10m. An infamous Peak route from the 80s which has become way too polished to be any good. Hard and slippery all the way.
1 user comment
 technicalfingery7c
20
Coot
18m. The first of the routes on the central 'Trad' section is a bit of a disappointment. The grade may appeal to more but the...
 technicalE4 6a
21
Piranha
18m. A fine bold climb which sees few ascents. Plug into the drill holes for the first few moves but above that you'll need to...
 2 startechnicalscaryfingeryE6 6b
22
Cora
18m. This harder version of Piranha sees even fewer ascents. The hard section is below the first break so sliding right from...
 1 startechnicalscaryfingeryE6 6c
23
White Bait
18m. Similar to its left-hand neighbours but with the crux situated conveniently lower on the wall. The lower wall is climbed...
 2 startechnicalfingeryE5 6c
24
Flake Out Shake Out
A short bouldery route up the wall between White Bait and A Miller's Tale via a flake. At the break finish which ever way you...
 technicalfingeryE4 6c
25
A Miller's Tale
18m. Another historic test-piece showing its age. The lower section, with all the good climbing, is still in good nick Boulder...
7 user comments
 2 startechnicalreachyE5 6b
26
Hot Fun Closing
15m. A boulder problem start (Kudos V7 easy way using layaways on right, V9 hard way going direct) leads to a shattered flake....
2 user comments
 1 starpowerfultechnicalfingery8a
27
The Press
A desperate problem. Gain the jug on A Bigger Splash by using tiny, opposing layaways. The sit down start is a desperate V11.
1 user comment
 2 starfingeryV9
28
A Bigger Tail
Jump to gain small edges which lead up and right, via a small pocket, to the break. Reverse a move and jump, or traverse off...
 1 startechnicalfingeryV7
29
A Bigger Splash
From low jugs on the right gain a good jug via some leftwards-leaning flakes.
1 user comment
 1 startechnicalfingeryV7
30
Water Baliff
18m. Easy ground to the left of the big patch of ivy, finishing up a flake/corner. Becoming overgrown.
 HVS 4c
31
Freewheeler
18m. The left-hand line between the two patches of ivy. Climb over a small roof and continue up flakes to the top. Neglected.
 looseHVS 4c
32
Professor Kirk
16m. Start just right of some trees. Climb a corner then move up and right to a roof. Traverse left then pull over and climb...
 powerfulE5 6b
33
Maureen
16m. A direct version of Professor Kirk pulling rightwards over the roof.
 looseE4 6a
34
Sperm Worm
16m. Lost under the ivy. The upper section followed a flake above the mid-height ledge.
 looseE5 6a
35
Dumb Animal
16m. Lost under the ivy. The upper section trended right from the ledge on Sperm Worm.
 looseE5 6a
36
The Angler
16m. A desperate one-move problem. Climb direct to a ledge just right of the ivy. Somehow use some tiny holds to gain a flake...
 1 startechnicalreachyfingeryE6 6c
37
The Sissy
14m. Typical of Rubicon; hard and becoming harder as bits drop off! The difficulties are confined to the steep middle section...
3 user comments
 1 starpowerfultechnical8a
38
Zeke the Freak
14m. A classic product of the 80s which just about held its grade through the 90s inspite of/ because of various snapping...
3 user comments
 3 starpowerfultechnicalfingery8b
39
The Bastard
12m. Tiny fingery holds and a hard section packed into a few intense metres gives the ultimate Rubicon route which may only be...
4 user comments
 2 starpowerfultechnicalfingery8c
40
Truely Awesome
12m. A little brother to the main route to the right; not as good but still worthwhile. Wrongly called Totally Awesome in the...
3 user comments
 1 starpowerful7a+
41
Rubicon top50
12m. Brilliant roof climbing up the main line of the roof which is more of a sprint than a long distance race. Scramble up to...
6 user comments
 3 starpowerful7a+
42
Zeitgeist
12m. A harder version of Rubicon with more bolts than you can usually clip. More independent than it looks but still a sideline...
1 user comment
 1 starpowerful7b
43
No Jug, No Thug
10m. A wild traverse above the really hard routes on mostly fixed gear (7b ish). Warm up on Rubicon and belay. Traverse the...
 1 starpowerfulstrenuousE5 6b
44
The Bomb is Coming
10m. More fun roof climbing. Run up the lower wall to the break. Pause. Sprint across it with a testing snatchy move at the...
 1 starpowerfulstrenuous7a
45
Toenail Pie
10m. Start up The Bomb but break right and follow the easiest line through the roof to the right (1 peg). Finish in the trees.
1 user comment
 powerfulE2 5b
46
Debris
10m. Dreadful climbing through the steep diagonal groove on the right-hand side of the roof. Ignore.
 looseE4 5c
47
Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
5m. Steep crack 10m right of the main cave.
 technicalE3 6c
What do these symbols mean?
Latest Comments
WATER-CUM-JOLLY
Desmond Douglas
"Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

Ping
"Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

Sheerwater
"On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

Zeke the Freak
"The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

St. Paul
"Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

Knuckle Knocker
"nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

Ping Pong
"Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

Deception
"fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

A Miller's Tale
"replace pegs?" 09/Mar

Zeke the Freak
"New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

Salar
"Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

Fledgling Flakes
"Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

Salar
"Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee ..." 07/Aug

Hot Fun Closing
"Re-equipped recently." 03/Jul

Let the Tribe Increase
"Went on Tribes on Saturday 28th June 2008. Due to the snapped off hold referred ..." 01/Jul

Too Old to be Bold
"Appears to have been rebolted recently" 08/Jun

The Sissy
"Snapped a small spike foothold off this at the weekend - sorry, was using it for..." 30/Jan

Rubicon
"Hey now! That last move on the roof is quite big if you don't fancy the small ho..." 28/Aug top50

The Inch Test
"Sorry, still talking about Three Spheres there, not the Inch Test" 16/Jul

Behemoth
"superb.clean.peg at the start still ok and can be backed up." 11/Jun

The Inch Test
"Ex project called Three Spheres" 28/May

Mandrake
"I have replaced the peg.The headwall offers fun climbing on clean rock.Easy for ..." 08/May

Salar
"Definately at the bottom end of 8a (more like 7c+) can't believe this once got 8..." 03/May

A Bigger Splash
"Has the sharpest hold in the universe at the top" 26/Apr

The Dole 1989
"crucial hold above bulge now very tiny, making the route very unbalanced, f6c up..." 22/Sep

A Miller's Tale
"Bolt it! Isn't it time we sorted out W-c-J so that it is a decent place to go cl..." 17/Sep

A Miller's Tale
"Is it worth bolting if all the good climbing is on the V4 boulder prob to the ho..." 12/Sep

Ping
"Thought the middle section was a bit goey for HVS with the gear placements a bit..." 02/Aug

Dead Tree Crack
"Fine little route, well protected,solid 5b moves but...the top is a bank of very..." 21/Jun

Ping
"first limestone route of the year thought the gear looked rubbish didnt trust it..." 21/May

Eat the Rich
"Easy 7c." 01/May

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