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Dry in the Rain

The most celebrated buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the splendid sweep of rock known as Rubicon Wall. The left-hand side of this crag has a mix of sport routes and trad routes. Although none are as popular these days as they used to be, Honeymoon Blues, Dragonflight and the hard sport found around Caviar remain top quality challenges. There are also some technical routes in the central section which are usually done above bouldering mats. Guidebook page 236.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Alimoany The steep crack leads to a big ledge. Follow the bolts above, with some difficulty, to the lower-off.	Strong	7b+
2	Honeymoon Blues A route of two halves, both with great climbing. Weave around on the lower wall below some threads in the bulge, then reach up...	1 Stars Reachy	E5 6b
3	Salar The groove bulge and wall give a very technical route. The first ascensionist managed somehow to move direct past the final... 8 user comments	1 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy	8a
4	Slapin Start up Salar but break right up the bulging wall.	1 Stars Technical	7c
5	Slapdasher Thin climbing up the white wall.	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	7a
6	Lapin The flake-line looks more attractive now that you can use the lower-off on Welsh Rarebit. May still be a bit loose.	Loose	E3 5c
7	Blue Eyed Myxamatoid Overgrown line right of the flakes of Lapin.		E3 5c
8	Welsh Rarebit Right of the flakes of Lapin.	1 Stars	6b+
9	Changing Fortunes A one-move-wonder. Crossing the bulge past the peg is the hard bit. After that, finish rightwards up Dragonflight.	Reachy Strong	E4 6b
10	Hare 16m. Poor climbing just right of the ivy. Loose and worth ignoring.	Loose	E3 5c
11	Chair's Missing A reachy move past a bulge provides the difficulties. Similar to its left-hand neighbour, but a bit easier.	1 Stars Reachy Strong	E4 6b
12	A Tall Story The third of the trio of reachy problems requires the longest arms.	1 Stars Reachy Strong	E5 6c
13	Dragonflight A super little route which is quite tricky for the short. The climbing is delicate and exposed but never quite as serious as it... 1 user comment	2 Stars Fluttery	E3 5c
14	The Dragonflight Traverse The name says it all. Do it in either/both directions. Polished.	1 Stars Pumpy	V3
15	Jezebel A harder version of Dragonflight. Boulder up to a break right of Dragonflight then clip the bolt above. Make hard moves past...	2 Stars Technical Fluttery	E5 6a
16	Kingfisher A direct line with one hideously technical move and requiring a baby-bouncer approach to protect. Clip the bolt on Jezebel and...	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	E5 6c
17	Jaws This early Fawcett offering has some superb climbing. Climb up to a good hold by a peg. Stand up above the peg and continue up...	1 Stars Technical Fluttery	E5 6b
18	Plectrum Maxilla Direct Serious and bouldery moves are required to reach a protruding peg on the bulging wall. Continue direct to the top break then...	1 Stars	E7 6c
19	Barracuda The desperate left-hand start to Caviar. Only a short crux section at the bottom, but very hard and fingery. The route has...	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	8b
20	Caviar A sport route for boulderers, which has become a popular first 8a+, although it isn't an easy one. Aim for the good hold, then...	3 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy	8a+
21	Beluga A right hand/direct version of Caviar is slightly harder than the original. Break right after the first bolt, then climb direct...	1 Stars Technical	8a+
22	Eugenics Intensely fingery and technical climbing. Still unrepeated since the loss of a crucial hold, and reported to be rather...	Technical Crimpy	8b+
23	Let the Tribe Increase Very technical and sequency climbing up an old bolt-ladder. Loss of a crucial hold has upped the grade. 7 user comments	1 Stars Crimpy	8a
24	Dangerous Tribes A link up of Dangerous Brothers and Tribes. Climb Dangerous Brothers to the second bolt, then make fingery crux moves up and...	1 Stars Crimpy	8a
25	The Dangerous Brothers Three bolts and a bolt at the break show the way. There are two methods of doing the crux, one for crimpers and one for those...	2 Stars Crimpy	8a
26	Too Old to be Bold Once derided as too short and too polished - now that short is a virtue, and everything else is just as polished it doesn't... 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	7c
27	Coot The first of the routes on the central section is poor. The grade may be gentler than the routes to either side, but the hollow... 1 user comment	Technical Loose	E4 6a
28	Piranha A fine, bold climb which still sees few ascents although it makes a good highball above a couple of mats. Use the drilled...	3 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery	E6 6b
29	Cora A harder version of Piranha sees even fewer ascents. The hard section is below the first break, so sliding right from here...	1 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery	E6 6c
30	White Bait Similar to its left-hand neighbours, but with the crux situated conveniently low on the wall. Climb on pockets to a peg at the...	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	E5 6c
31	Flake Out Shake Out A short bouldery route up the wall between White Bait and Miller's Tale via a flake. At the break, finish which ever way you...	Technical Crimpy	E4 6c
32	A Miller's Tale Another old test-piece showing its age. The lower section with the good climbing is still in good nick. Boulder out to the big... 7 user comments	2 Stars Reachy Technical	E5 6b
33	Hot Fun Closing A boulder problem start (Kudos, V7 easy way using layaways on right, V9 hard way going direct) leads to a shattered flake.... 2 user comments	2 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy	8a
34	A Bigger Tail Jump to gain small edges which lead up and right, via a pocket, to the break (a V7 problem to here). Continue direct.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	7b+
35	The Press A desperate problem. Gain the jug on A Bigger Splash by using tiny, opposing layaways. The sit down start is V11. 1 user comment	2 Stars Crimpy	V9
36	A Bigger Splash From low jugs on the right gain a good jug via some leftward-leaning flakes. Some of the footholds double as mirrors. 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	V7
37	Water Baliff 18m. Easy ground to the left of the big patch of ivy, finishing up a flake/corner. Becoming overgrown.		HVS 4c
38	Freewheeler 18m. The left-hand line between the two patches of ivy. Climb over a small roof and continue up flakes to the top. Neglected.	Loose	HVS 4c
39	Professor Kirk 16m. Start just right of some trees. Climb a corner then move up and right to a roof. Traverse left then pull over and climb...	Strong	E5 6b
40	Maureen 16m. A direct version of Professor Kirk pulling rightwards over the roof.	Loose	E4 6a

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