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Sheltered

The most celebrated buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the splendid sweep of rock known as Rubicon Wall. The left-hand side of this crag has a mix of sport routes and trad routes. Although none are as popular these days as they used to be, Honeymoon Blues, Dragonflight and the hard sport found around Caviar remain top quality challenges. There are also some technical routes in the central section which are usually done above bouldering mats.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Alimoany
The steep crack leads to a big ledge. Follow the bolts above, with some difficulty, to the lower-off.
 
Strong
7b+
2
Honeymoon Blues
A route of two halves, both with great climbing. Weave around on the lower wall below some threads in the bulge, then reach up...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E5 6b
3
Salar
The groove bulge and wall give a very technical route. The first ascensionist managed somehow to move direct past the final...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a
4
Slapin
Start up Salar but break right up the bulging wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
5
Slapdasher
Thin climbing up the white wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
6
Lapin
The flake-line looks more attractive now that you can use the lower-off on Welsh Rarebit. May still be a bit loose.
 
Loose
E3 5c
7
Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
Overgrown line right of the flakes of Lapin.
 E3 5c
8
Welsh Rarebit
Right of the flakes of Lapin.
 
1 Stars
6b+
9
Changing Fortunes
A one-move-wonder. Crossing the bulge past the peg is the hard bit. After that, finish rightwards up Dragonflight.
 
Reachy
Strong
E4 6b
10
Hare
16m. Poor climbing just right of the ivy. Loose and worth ignoring.
 
Loose
E3 5c
11
Chair's Missing
A reachy move past a bulge provides the difficulties. Similar to its left-hand neighbour, but a bit easier.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
E4 6b
12
A Tall Story
The third of the trio of reachy problems requires the longest arms.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
E5 6c
13
Dragonflight
A super little route which is quite tricky for the short. The climbing is delicate and exposed but never quite as serious as it...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
14
The Dragonflight Traverse
The name says it all. Do it in either/both directions. Polished.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
V3 6A
15
Jezebel
A harder version of Dragonflight. Boulder up to a break right of Dragonflight then clip the bolt above. Make hard moves past...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6a
16
Kingfisher
A direct line with one hideously technical move and requiring a baby-bouncer approach to protect. Clip the bolt on Jezebel and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6c
17
Jaws
This early Fawcett offering has some superb climbing. Climb up to a good hold by a peg. Stand up above the peg and continue up...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
18
Plectrum Maxilla Direct
Serious and bouldery moves are required to reach a protruding peg on the bulging wall. Continue direct to the top break then...
 
1 Stars
E7 6c
19
Barracuda
The desperate left-hand start to Caviar. Only a short crux section at the bottom, but very hard and fingery. The route has...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b
20
Caviar
A sport route for boulderers, which has become a popular first 8a+, although it isn't an easy one. Aim for the good hold, then...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a+
21
Beluga
A right hand/direct version of Caviar is slightly harder than the original. Break right after the first bolt, then climb direct...
 
1 Stars
Technical
8a+
22
Eugenics
Intensely fingery and technical climbing. Still unrepeated since the loss of a crucial hold, and reported to be rather...
 
Technical
Crimpy
8b+
23
Let the Tribe Increase
Very technical and sequency climbing up an old bolt-ladder. Loss of a crucial hold has upped the grade.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
8a
24
Dangerous Tribes
A link up of Dangerous Brothers and Tribes. Climb Dangerous Brothers to the second bolt, then make fingery crux moves up and...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
8a
25
The Dangerous Brothers
Three bolts and a bolt at the break show the way. There are two methods of doing the crux, one for crimpers and one for those...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
8a
26
Too Old to be Bold
Once derided as too short and too polished - now that short is a virtue, and everything else is just as polished it doesn't...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
27
Coot
The first of the routes on the central section is poor. The grade may be gentler than the routes to either side, but the hollow...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Loose
E4 6a
28
Piranha
A fine, bold climb which still sees few ascents although it makes a good highball above a couple of mats. Use the drilled...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
29
Cora
A harder version of Piranha sees even fewer ascents. The hard section is below the first break, so sliding right from here...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6 6c
30
White Bait
Similar to its left-hand neighbours, but with the crux situated conveniently low on the wall. Climb on pockets to a peg at the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6c
31
Flake Out Shake Out
A short bouldery route up the wall between White Bait and Miller's Tale via a flake. At the break, finish which ever way you...
 
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6c
32
A Miller's Tale
Another old test-piece showing its age. The lower section with the good climbing is still in good nick. Boulder out to the big...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E5 6b
33
Hot Fun Closing
A boulder problem start (Kudos, V7 easy way using layaways on right, V9 hard way going direct) leads to a shattered flake....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a
34
A Bigger Tail
Jump to gain small edges which lead up and right, via a pocket, to the break (a V7 problem to here). Continue direct.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
35
The Press
A desperate problem. Gain the jug on A Bigger Splash by using tiny, opposing layaways. The sit down start is V11.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
V9 7C
36
A Bigger Splash
From low jugs on the right gain a good jug via some leftward-leaning flakes. Some of the footholds double as mirrors.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
V7 7A+
37
Water Baliff
18m. Easy ground to the left of the big patch of ivy, finishing up a flake/corner. Becoming overgrown.
 HVS 4c
38
Freewheeler
18m. The left-hand line between the two patches of ivy. Climb over a small roof and continue up flakes to the top. Neglected.
 
Loose
HVS 4c
39
Professor Kirk
16m. Start just right of some trees. Climb a corner then move up and right to a roof. Traverse left then pull over and climb...
 
Strong
E5 6b
40
Maureen
16m. A direct version of Professor Kirk pulling rightwards over the roof.
 
Loose
E4 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Rhyme Crime
    "Changed from E4 6a to 7a+, no votes" 17/Sep

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

    Fledgling Flakes
    "Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

    Salar
    "Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee ..." 07/Aug

    Hot Fun Closing
    "Re-equipped recently." 03/Jul

    Let the Tribe Increase
    "Went on Tribes on Saturday 28th June 2008. Due to the snapped off hold referred ..." 01/Jul

    Too Old to be Bold
    "Appears to have been rebolted recently" 08/Jun

    The Sissy
    "Snapped a small spike foothold off this at the weekend - sorry, was using it for..." 30/Jan

    Rubicon
    "Hey now! That last move on the roof is quite big if you don't fancy the small ho..." 28/Aug

    The Inch Test
    "Sorry, still talking about Three Spheres there, not the Inch Test" 16/Jul

    Behemoth
    "superb.clean.peg at the start still ok and can be backed up." 11/Jun

    The Inch Test
    "Ex project called Three Spheres" 28/May

    Mandrake
    "I have replaced the peg.The headwall offers fun climbing on clean rock.Easy for ..." 08/May

    Salar
    "Definately at the bottom end of 8a (more like 7c+) can't believe this once got 8..." 03/May

    A Bigger Splash
    "Has the sharpest hold in the universe at the top" 26/Apr

    The Dole 1989
    "crucial hold above bulge now very tiny, making the route very unbalanced, f6c up..." 22/Sep

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