Adjacent Areas
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The best buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the short sweeping wall of Rubicon. Easily situated near the Cressbrook end of the dale, Rubicon has become a popular bouldering mecca as well as a major forcing ground for hard sport routes. Guidebook page 152.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Alimoany 8m. The steep crack leads with some difficulty, to a ledge. Follow the bolts above to the lower-off.		7b
2	Honeymoon Blues 10m. A route of two halves which gives great climbing. Weave around the lower wall below some threads in the bulge. Reach up to...		E5 6b
3	Salar 8m. Climb a groove (peg) then clip the bolt above and begin to imagine how you might climb past it. Horrendous. This routes... 8 user comments		8a+
4	Lapin 15m. The two flakes lead to the upper break. Climb the wall above to a tree belay.		E3 5c
5	Blue Eyed Myxamatoid Overgrown line right of the flakes of Lapin.		E3 5c
6	Hare 16m. Poor climbing just right of the ivy. Loose and worth ignoring.		E3 5c
7	Changing Fortunes 16m. A one-move-wonder. Crossing the bulge past the peg is the hard bit. After that finish rightwards up Dragonflight.		E4 6b
8	Chairs Missing 16m. A reachy move past a bulge provide the difficulties. Similar to its left-hand neighbour but a bit easier.		E4 6b
9	A Tall Story 16m. The third of the trio of reachy problems requires the longest arms.		E5 6c
10	Dragonflight 16m. A brilliant little route which provides Rubicon's easiest genuine challenge. The climbing is delicate and exposed but... 1 user comment		E3 5c
11	Jezebel 18m. A harder version of Dragonflight. Boulder up to a break right of Dragonflight then clip the bolt above. Make hard moves...		E5 6a
12	Kingfisher 17m. A direct line with one hideously technical move and requiring a baby-bouncer approach to protect. Clip the bolt on Jezebel...		E5 6c
13	Jaws 16m. This early Fawcett offering has some superb climbing. Climb up to a good hold by a peg. Stand up above the peg and...		E5 6b
14	Plectrum Maxilla Direct 18m. Serious and bouldery moves are required to reach a protruding peg on the bulging wall. Finish direct to the top break then...		E7 6c
15	Caviar 12m. A sport route for boulderers which has become a popular 'first 8a+' although it isn't an easy 8a+. Your first target is a...		8a+
16	Eugenics 10m. Intensely fingery and technical climbing. Unrepeated since the loss of a crucial hold.		8a+
17	Let the Tribe Increase 10m. Very technical and sequency up an old bolt ladder. Probably had enough ascents to have become reasonably stable although a... 7 user comments		7c+
18	The Dangerous Brothers 10m. Three bolts show the way to some tat in the break. There are two methods of doing the crux, one for crimpers and one for...		8a
19	Too Old to be Bold 10m. An infamous Peak route from the 80s which has become way too polished to be any good. Hard and slippery all the way. 1 user comment		7c
20	Coot 18m. The first of the routes on the central 'Trad' section is a bit of a disappointment. The grade may appeal to more but the...		E4 6a
21	Piranha 18m. A fine bold climb which sees few ascents. Plug into the drill holes for the first few moves but above that you'll need to...		E6 6b
22	Cora 18m. This harder version of Piranha sees even fewer ascents. The hard section is below the first break so sliding right from...		E6 6c
23	White Bait 18m. Similar to its left-hand neighbours but with the crux situated conveniently lower on the wall. The lower wall is climbed...		E5 6c
24	Flake Out Shake Out A short bouldery route up the wall between White Bait and A Miller's Tale via a flake. At the break finish which ever way you...		E4 6c
25	A Miller's Tale 18m. Another historic test-piece showing its age. The lower section, with all the good climbing, is still in good nick Boulder... 7 user comments		E5 6b
26	Hot Fun Closing 15m. A boulder problem start (Kudos V7 easy way using layaways on right, V9 hard way going direct) leads to a shattered flake.... 2 user comments		8a
27	The Press A desperate problem. Gain the jug on A Bigger Splash by using tiny, opposing layaways. The sit down start is a desperate V11. 1 user comment		V9
28	A Bigger Tail Jump to gain small edges which lead up and right, via a small pocket, to the break. Reverse a move and jump, or traverse off...		V7
29	A Bigger Splash From low jugs on the right gain a good jug via some leftwards-leaning flakes. 1 user comment		V7
30	Water Baliff 18m. Easy ground to the left of the big patch of ivy, finishing up a flake/corner. Becoming overgrown.		HVS 4c
31	Freewheeler 18m. The left-hand line between the two patches of ivy. Climb over a small roof and continue up flakes to the top. Neglected.		HVS 4c
32	Professor Kirk 16m. Start just right of some trees. Climb a corner then move up and right to a roof. Traverse left then pull over and climb...		E5 6b
33	Maureen 16m. A direct version of Professor Kirk pulling rightwards over the roof.		E4 6a
34	Sperm Worm 16m. Lost under the ivy. The upper section followed a flake above the mid-height ledge.		E5 6a
35	Dumb Animal 16m. Lost under the ivy. The upper section trended right from the ledge on Sperm Worm.		E5 6a
36	The Angler 16m. A desperate one-move problem. Climb direct to a ledge just right of the ivy. Somehow use some tiny holds to gain a flake...		E6 6c
37	The Sissy 14m. Typical of Rubicon; hard and becoming harder as bits drop off! The difficulties are confined to the steep middle section... 3 user comments		8a
38	Zeke the Freak 14m. A classic product of the 80s which just about held its grade through the 90s inspite of/ because of various snapping... 3 user comments		8b
39	The Bastard 12m. Tiny fingery holds and a hard section packed into a few intense metres gives the ultimate Rubicon route which may only be... 4 user comments		8c
40	Truely Awesome 12m. A little brother to the main route to the right; not as good but still worthwhile. Wrongly called Totally Awesome in the... 3 user comments		7a+
41	Rubicon 12m. Brilliant roof climbing up the main line of the roof which is more of a sprint than a long distance race. Scramble up to... 6 user comments		7a+
42	Zeitgeist 12m. A harder version of Rubicon with more bolts than you can usually clip. More independent than it looks but still a sideline... 1 user comment		7b
43	No Jug, No Thug 10m. A wild traverse above the really hard routes on mostly fixed gear (7b ish). Warm up on Rubicon and belay. Traverse the...		E5 6b
44	The Bomb is Coming 10m. More fun roof climbing. Run up the lower wall to the break. Pause. Sprint across it with a testing snatchy move at the...		7a
45	Toenail Pie 10m. Start up The Bomb but break right and follow the easiest line through the roof to the right (1 peg). Finish in the trees. 1 user comment		E2 5b
46	Debris 10m. Dreadful climbing through the steep diagonal groove on the right-hand side of the roof. Ignore.		E4 5c
47	Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird 5m. Steep crack 10m right of the main cave.		E3 6c
What do these symbols mean?

Ping
"Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

Sheerwater
"On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

Zeke the Freak
"The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

St. Paul
"Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

Knuckle Knocker
"nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

Ping Pong
"Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

Deception
"fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

A Miller's Tale
"replace pegs?" 09/Mar

Zeke the Freak
"New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

Salar
"Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

Fledgling Flakes
"Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

Salar
"Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee ..." 07/Aug

Hot Fun Closing
"Re-equipped recently." 03/Jul

Let the Tribe Increase
"Went on Tribes on Saturday 28th June 2008. Due to the snapped off hold referred ..." 01/Jul

Too Old to be Bold
"Appears to have been rebolted recently" 08/Jun

The Sissy
"Snapped a small spike foothold off this at the weekend - sorry, was using it for..." 30/Jan

Rubicon
"Hey now! That last move on the roof is quite big if you don't fancy the small ho..." 28/Aug

The Inch Test
"Sorry, still talking about Three Spheres there, not the Inch Test" 16/Jul

Behemoth
"superb.clean.peg at the start still ok and can be backed up." 11/Jun

The Inch Test
"Ex project called Three Spheres" 28/May

Mandrake
"I have replaced the peg.The headwall offers fun climbing on clean rock.Easy for ..." 08/May

Salar
"Definately at the bottom end of 8a (more like 7c+) can't believe this once got 8..." 03/May

A Bigger Splash
"Has the sharpest hold in the universe at the top" 26/Apr

The Dole 1989
"crucial hold above bulge now very tiny, making the route very unbalanced, f6c up..." 22/Sep

A Miller's Tale
"Bolt it! Isn't it time we sorted out W-c-J so that it is a decent place to go cl..." 17/Sep

A Miller's Tale
"Is it worth bolting if all the good climbing is on the V4 boulder prob to the ho..." 12/Sep

Ping
"Thought the middle section was a bit goey for HVS with the gear placements a bit..." 02/Aug

Dead Tree Crack
"Fine little route, well protected,solid 5b moves but...the top is a bank of very..." 21/Jun

Ping
"first limestone route of the year thought the gear looked rubbish didnt trust it..." 21/May

Eat the Rich
"Easy 7c." 01/May

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