Moat Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Rubicon Right  |  Crunch Buttress >

Trad
Evening sun
Up and Down
20 mins
Seepage
Sheltered

Moat Buttress's Gold Rush year was way back in 1988; the Rubicon dam burst, and climbers flocked to the newly-accessible crag; in no time it was covered with routes. Before and since then, it has been avoided by most climbers, despite the restored water level only denying access to four routes. It isn't the most solid of crags, and much of the fixed gear is now old although this is now being replaced. Guidebook page 242.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sheerwater
A traverse with good positions though it is seldom climbed.1) 4c, 20m. Starting up the bank on the left of the crag, move...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
E1 5b
2
Nude Moatorcycle Girl
The first bolt-line starts from the small beach.
 
Technical
Loose
7a
3
Out of the Shadows
The upper bulge requires a determined approach and leads to an entertaining tree lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Loose
7b
4
Another Moatside Attraction
A bouldery start is awkward. Above this are some hard bulges split by a hands-off rest on a ledge.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Loose
7a+
5
Moat Madness
18m. The bouldery start on this makes an ascent without a belayer in wellies very precarious. The scooped wall above has some...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks
Old bolts up a very neglected line up the grooves left of the steeper central section. It was once thought to be 7c.
 
Technical
Loose
E6 6c
7
Sheer Power
18m. Currently unclimbable. The tiny bolts are dangerous and the wall only accessible with big wellies. The original route...
 
Technical
E5 6b
8
Excalibur
A fine line and a fine pitch, which is worth the effort of the approach. The gear is mainly in place (7b+?), although best...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Loose
E6 6b
9
The Lady of the Lake
20m. The elegant central line above the water section has a distinctly inelegant crux. The start is only accessible in big...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
10
No Mud, No Thud
Start up a small groove to arrive at the rising traverse of Excalibur from directly below. Bits of old gear and wires.
 
Strong
E6 6b
11
D.T.'s Route
20m. Start as for Lady of the Lake but break right and follow the wall. Seldom repeated since it was climbed just before the...
 
Technical
E5 6b
12
Let the Tripe Increase
Start up a flake then tackle the bulge by an intense bouldery sequence. Continue more steadily up the wall above.A Bigger...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
13
All Hands to the Pump
Solo onto the ledge via the easy crack on the right. Powerful climbing leads to a slight rest below the bulge. Full on moves...
 
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
14
Moatorhead
A good climb which has been re-bolted with a direct start. The original start is up Coming Up for Air at no change in grade. It...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
15
Coming Up for Air
Climb direct up to the break, pass left of the small roof, then go right at the top of the slab to the base of a large...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
16
Moat People
Re-bolted and better for it.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
17
Afloat in the Moat
Start up a small groove. Re-bolted.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6c+
18
Piranha Wall
An old trad route that hasn't been climbed for years. It starts below the high corner then takes a diagonal line leftwards....
 
Loose
??
19
Triton
A series of corners lead to the main break. Move right to tackle the clean upper groove to the trees. Not climbed for many...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E4 5c
20
Two Sheep to Leicester
Pull over the loose bulge, then climb the technical wall above.
 
1 Stars
Loose
7a+
21
Searching for the Yeti
Start as for Two Sheep... but break out right up the steep arete. May well be harder due to the loss of holds.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
7b
22
Moat Wall
Gain the hanging groove somehow. Not reclimbed since losing crucial holds. It was given a grade of 7c originally.
 
Strong
Loose
??
23
Moat Race
An old peg and a bolt mark the line.
 
Loose
6c+
24
Moat Puddings
The bolt has fallen out of this one. It was originally E4 6a.
 
Loose
??
25
Castle Puddings
The wall has three old pegs and leads to a tree belay.
 
Loose
6b+
26
The Flying Dutchman
A free ascent of the old aided girdle-traverse of the buttress. Start on the terrace below and right of the Triton...
 
1 Stars
Loose
E6 6c
27
Jaws ll
30m. Start from the ground or a belay on the ledge at the top of the groove of Triton. Pull over the roof above. Friable and...
 
Technical
Strong
E5 6b
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

    Fledgling Flakes
    "Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

    Salar
    "Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee ..." 07/Aug

    Hot Fun Closing
    "Re-equipped recently." 03/Jul

    Let the Tribe Increase
    "Went on Tribes on Saturday 28th June 2008. Due to the snapped off hold referred ..." 01/Jul

    Too Old to be Bold
    "Appears to have been rebolted recently" 08/Jun

    The Sissy
    "Snapped a small spike foothold off this at the weekend - sorry, was using it for..." 30/Jan

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