Adjacent Areas
< Rubicon Right | Crunch Buttress >
Trad
Evening sun
Up and Down
20 minsSeepage
Moat Buttress's Gold Rush year was way back in 1988; the Rubicon dam burst, and climbers flocked to the newly-accessible crag; in no time it was covered with routes. Before and since then, it has been avoided by most climbers, despite the restored water level only denying access to four routes. It isn't the most solid of crags, and much of the fixed gear is now old although this is now being replaced. Guidebook page 242.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Sheerwater A traverse with good positions though it is seldom climbed.1) 4c, 20m. Starting up the bank on the left of the crag, move... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Loose | E1 5b |
2 |
Nude Moatorcycle Girl The first bolt-line starts from the small beach. | Technical Loose | 7a |
3 |
Out of the Shadows The upper bulge requires a determined approach and leads to an entertaining tree lower-off. | 1 Stars Strong Loose | 7b |
4 |
Another Moatside Attraction A bouldery start is awkward. Above this are some hard bulges split by a hands-off rest on a ledge. | 1 Stars Reachy Loose | 7a+ |
5 |
Moat Madness 18m. The bouldery start on this makes an ascent without a belayer in wellies very precarious. The scooped wall above has some... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6b |
6 |
Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks Old bolts up a very neglected line up the grooves left of the steeper central section. It was once thought to be 7c. | Technical Loose | E6 6c |
7 |
Sheer Power 18m. Currently unclimbable. The tiny bolts are dangerous and the wall only accessible with big wellies. The original route... | Technical | E5 6b |
8 |
Excalibur A fine line and a fine pitch, which is worth the effort of the approach. The gear is mainly in place (7b+?), although best... | 2 Stars Strong Loose | E6 6b |
9 |
The Lady of the Lake 20m. The elegant central line above the water section has a distinctly inelegant crux. The start is only accessible in big... | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
10 |
No Mud, No Thud Start up a small groove to arrive at the rising traverse of Excalibur from directly below. Bits of old gear and wires. | Strong | E6 6b |
11 |
D.T.'s Route 20m. Start as for Lady of the Lake but break right and follow the wall. Seldom repeated since it was climbed just before the... | Technical | E5 6b |
12 |
Let the Tripe Increase Start up a flake then tackle the bulge by an intense bouldery sequence. Continue more steadily up the wall above.A Bigger... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
13 |
All Hands to the Pump Solo onto the ledge via the easy crack on the right. Powerful climbing leads to a slight rest below the bulge. Full on moves... | Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
14 |
Moatorhead A good climb which has been re-bolted with a direct start. The original start is up Coming Up for Air at no change in grade. It... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
15 |
Coming Up for Air Climb direct up to the break, pass left of the small roof, then go right at the top of the slab to the base of a large... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7c |
16 |
Moat People Re-bolted and better for it. | 2 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
17 |
Afloat in the Moat Start up a small groove. Re-bolted. | 1 Stars Reachy | 6c+ |
18 |
Piranha Wall An old trad route that hasn't been climbed for years. It starts below the high corner then takes a diagonal line leftwards.... | Loose | ?? |
19 |
Triton A series of corners lead to the main break. Move right to tackle the clean upper groove to the trees. Not climbed for many... | Fluttery Loose | E4 5c |
20 |
Two Sheep to Leicester Pull over the loose bulge, then climb the technical wall above. | 1 Stars Loose | 7a+ |
21 |
Searching for the Yeti Start as for Two Sheep... but break out right up the steep arete. May well be harder due to the loss of holds. | 1 Stars Pumpy Loose | 7b |
22 |
Moat Wall Gain the hanging groove somehow. Not reclimbed since losing crucial holds. It was given a grade of 7c originally. | Strong Loose | ?? |
23 |
Moat Race An old peg and a bolt mark the line. | Loose | 6c+ |
24 |
Moat Puddings The bolt has fallen out of this one. It was originally E4 6a. | Loose | ?? |
25 |
Castle Puddings The wall has three old pegs and leads to a tree belay. | Loose | 6b+ |
26 |
The Flying Dutchman A free ascent of the old aided girdle-traverse of the buttress. Start on the terrace below and right of the Triton... | 1 Stars Loose | E6 6c |
27 |
Jaws ll 30m. Start from the ground or a belay on the ledge at the top of the groove of Triton. Pull over the roof above. Friable and... | Technical Strong | E5 6b |