Moat Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Rubicon Right  |  Majorca Crunch Buttress >

Sport
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Sheltered

Moat Buttress's Gold Rush year was way back in 1988; the Rubicon dam burst, and climbers flocked to the newly-accessible crag; in no time it was covered with routes. Before and since then, it has been avoided by most climbers, despite the restored water level only denying access to four routes. It isn't the most solid of crags, and much of the fixed gear is now old although this is now being replaced.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sheerwater
A traverse with good positions though it is seldom climbed.1) 4c, 20m. Starting up the bank on the left of the crag, move...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
E1
2
Nude Moatorcycle Girl
The first bolt-line starts from the small beach.
 
Technical
Loose
7a
3
Out of the Shadows
The upper bulge requires a determined approach and leads to an entertaining tree lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Loose
7b
4
Another Moatside Attraction
A bouldery start is awkward. Above this are some hard bulges split by a hands-off rest on a ledge.
 
1 Stars
Loose
7a+
5
Moat Madness
18m. The bouldery start on this makes an ascent without a belayer in wellies very precarious. The scooped wall above has some...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks
Up the grooves left of the steeper central section. Rebolted.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Loose
7c
7
Sheer Power
18m. Currently unclimbable. The tiny bolts are dangerous and the wall only accessible with big wellies. The original route...
 
Technical
E5 6b
8
Excalibur
A fine line and a fine pitch, which is worth the effort of the approach. The gear is mainly in place (7b+?), although best...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Loose
E6
9
The Lady of the Lake
20m. The elegant central line above the water section has a distinctly inelegant crux. The start is only accessible in big...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
10
No Mud, No Thud
Start up a small groove to arrive at the rising traverse of Excalibur from directly below.
1 user comment
 
Strong
7b+
11
D.T.'s Route
20m. Start as for Lady of the Lake but break right and follow the wall. Seldom repeated since it was climbed just before the...
 
Technical
E5 6b
12
Let the Tripe Increase
Start up a flake then tackle the bulge by an intense bouldery sequence. Continue more steadily up the wall above.
 
2 Stars
7c
13
All Hands to the Pump
Solo onto the ledge via the easy crack on the right. Powerful climbing leads to a slight rest below the bulge. Full on moves...
 
Technical
7c+
14
Moatorhead
A good climb which has been re-bolted with a direct start. The original start is up Coming Up for Air at no change in grade. It...
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
15
Coming Up for Air
Climb direct up to the break, pass left of the small roof, then go right at the top of the slab to the base of a large...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
16
Moat People
Re-bolted and better for it.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
17
Afloat in the Moat
Start up a small groove. Re-bolted.
 
1 Stars
6c+
18
Piranha Wall
An old trad route that hasn't been climbed for years. It starts below the high corner then takes a diagonal line leftwards....
1 user comment
 
Loose
E4
19
Triton
A series of corners lead to the main break. Move right to tackle the clean upper groove to the trees. Not climbed for many...
 
Loose
E4
20
Two Sheep to Leicester
Pull over the loose bulge, then climb the technical wall above.
 
1 Stars
Loose
7a+
21
Searching for the Yeti
Start as for Two Sheep... but break out right up the steep arete. May well be harder due to the loss of holds.
 
1 Stars
Loose
7b
22
Moat Wall
Gain the hanging groove somehow. Not reclimbed since losing crucial holds. It was given a grade of 7c originally.
1 user comment
 
Strong
Loose
E5
23
Moat Race
An old peg and a bolt mark the line.
 
Loose
6c+
24
Moat Puddings
The bolt has fallen out of this one. It was originally E4 6a.
1 user comment
 
Loose
E5
25
Castle Puddings
The wall has three old pegs and leads to a tree belay.
 
Loose
6b+
26
The Flying Dutchman
A free ascent of the old aided girdle-traverse of the buttress. Start on the terrace below and right of the Triton...
 
1 Stars
Loose
E6
27
Jaws ll
30m. Start from the ground or a belay on the ledge at the top of the groove of Triton. Pull over the roof above. Friable and...
 
Technical
Strong
E5 6b