Majorca Crunch Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Sheltered

The steep wall, passed on the way to Moat Buttress, has been developed with some intense and hard sport routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
You Got No Reason
The left-hand side. Tackle the bulge and wall above.
 
Technical
Strong
7a
2
Rhyme Crime
A trciky lower section leads to a snappy wall above.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
3
Who Got Rhyme
Hard moves to a short groove.
 6c
4
Rhyme and Reason
Technical moves to a shallow groove.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
5
Reserve Judgement
One old bolt to the left of the new bolts.
1 user comment
 
Technical
7a
6
Happy Days
Fingery moves past twin bolts.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
7
Oh Dear!
Another wall climb past twin bolts.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
8
Four Men Tour
Heave up the left-facing flakes.
 
1 Stars
6c
9
Val de Mossa
A tricky bulge leads to easier wall above.
 6c+
10
Blanca Expression
A hard start.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a
11
The Majorca Alternative
This one has been rebolted. It starts about 5m left of the big tree. Head up the steep wall past some overlaps.
 
1 Stars
7a+
12
Costa del Jolly
Fingery climbing up the smart wall.
 
1 Stars
7a
13
Wish you Were Here
Start to the right and climb up behind the tree.
 6b
14
Do I?
Steep moves up the big flakeline.
 
Strong
6b+
15
Mission Impossible
The left-hand line has a desperate bouldery middle section requiring a horrendous lock-off to a small side-pull.
 
1 Stars
8a+
16
Karma Killer
Superb technical climbing up the steep wall involving a desperate mono-move and then a sustained finish.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
8b
17
Agent Provocateur
Excellent climbing up the bulging rib. A powerful start via small undercuts leads to the break and a rest, then a very exciting...
 
2 Stars
Technical
8a+
18
Perfecto
A very reachy start leads to a short and fierce wall and then up the wall left of a groove to the lower-off of Trainer Tamer.
 
Technical
7c+
19
Trainer Tamer
A tricky wall leads to an easier scoop and a lower-off on the ledge above.
 
Technical
7b+
20
Breakbeat
A pumpy right-to-left traverse of the upper break line. Follow Trainer Tamer to the break then traverse this leftwards to...
 
1 Stars
8a
21
One to One
Climb the wall to the left of the big flake of Under Western Eyes. There is currently no lower-off for the route and the upper...
 
Technical
7a+
22
Under Western Eyes
Climb the leaning flake to a roof (peg). Pull over to gain a big ledge. Either walk off rightwards, or tackle the groove above...
 
Loose
E5
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Fatal Hesitation
    "Changed from 7b+ 6c * to 7b+ *, no votes" 27/May

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

    Fledgling Flakes
    "Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

    Salar
    "Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee ..." 07/Aug

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