Adjacent Areas
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Evening sun
Up and Down
20 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
The steep wall, passed on the way to Moat Buttress, has been developed with some intense and hard sport routes. Guidebook page 244.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Rhyme Cryme 10m. Start on the left-hand side of the buttress, below the scoop in the bulge. Climb past three bolts to a tree belay.... | Strong | E4 6a |
2 |
Rhyme and Reason 10m. Climb to a bolt in the centre of the buttress, then break left and follow the rib to the trees. | Crimpy Loose | E4 6a |
3 |
Reserve Judgement 10m. Climb to a bolt in the centre of the buttress. Pass this on the right and then tackle the tricky and scary wall above to... | Fluttery Loose | E5 6a |
4 |
Happy Days 10m. Climb up to a large undercut and use this to get onto the wall above. Belay in the trees. | Loose | E4 6a |
5 |
Oh Dear! 10m. Climb the wall just right of the prominent overlap. Belay in the trees. | Loose | E4 6a |
6 |
The Majorca Alternative This one has been rebolted. It starts about 5m left of the big tree. Head up the steep wall past some overlaps. | 1 Stars | 7a+ |
7 |
Costa del Jolly Fingery climbing up the smart wall. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 7a |
8 |
Wish you Were Here Start to the right and climb up behind the tree. | 6b | |
9 |
Mission Impossible The left-hand line has a desperate bouldery middle section requiring a horrendous lock-off to a small side-pull. | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy Crimpy | 8a+ |
10 |
Karma Killer Superb technical climbing up the steep wall involving a desperate mono-move and then a sustained finish. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy Crimpy | 8b |
11 |
Agent Provocateur Excellent climbing up the bulging rib. A powerful start via small undercuts leads to the break and a rest, then a very exciting... | 2 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8a+ |
12 |
Perfecto A very reachy start leads to a short and fierce wall and then up the wall left of a groove to the lower-off of Trainer Tamer. | Technical Strong Crimpy | 7c+ |
13 |
Trainer Tamer A tricky wall leads to an easier scoop and a lower-off on the ledge above. | Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
14 |
Breakbeat A pumpy right-to-left traverse of the upper break line. Follow Trainer Tamer to the break then traverse this leftwards to... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
15 |
One to One Climb the wall to the left of the big flake of Under Western Eyes. There is currently no lower-off for the route and the upper... | Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
16 |
Under Western Eyes Climb the leaning flake to a roof (peg). Pull over to gain a big ledge. Either walk off rightwards, or tackle the groove above... | Fluttery Loose | E5 6b |