Crunch Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Moat Buttress  |  The Cornice >

Trad
Evening sun
20 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The steep wall, passed on the way to Moat Buttress, has been developed with some intense and hard sport routes. Guidebook page 244.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rhyme Cryme
10m. Start on the left-hand side of the buttress, below the scoop in the bulge. Climb past three bolts to a tree belay....
 
Strong
E4 6a
2
Rhyme and Reason
10m. Climb to a bolt in the centre of the buttress, then break left and follow the rib to the trees.
 
Crimpy
Loose
E4 6a
3
Reserve Judgement
10m. Climb to a bolt in the centre of the buttress. Pass this on the right and then tackle the tricky and scary wall above to...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6a
4
Happy Days
10m. Climb up to a large undercut and use this to get onto the wall above. Belay in the trees.
 
Loose
E4 6a
5
Oh Dear!
10m. Climb the wall just right of the prominent overlap. Belay in the trees.
 
Loose
E4 6a
6
The Majorca Alternative
This one has been rebolted. It starts about 5m left of the big tree. Head up the steep wall past some overlaps.
 
1 Stars
7a+
7
Costa del Jolly
Fingery climbing up the smart wall.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a
8
Wish you Were Here
Start to the right and climb up behind the tree.
 6b
9
Mission Impossible
The left-hand line has a desperate bouldery middle section requiring a horrendous lock-off to a small side-pull.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
10
Karma Killer
Superb technical climbing up the steep wall involving a desperate mono-move and then a sustained finish.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b
11
Agent Provocateur
Excellent climbing up the bulging rib. A powerful start via small undercuts leads to the break and a rest, then a very exciting...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a+
12
Perfecto
A very reachy start leads to a short and fierce wall and then up the wall left of a groove to the lower-off of Trainer Tamer.
 
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
7c+
13
Trainer Tamer
A tricky wall leads to an easier scoop and a lower-off on the ledge above.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
14
Breakbeat
A pumpy right-to-left traverse of the upper break line. Follow Trainer Tamer to the break then traverse this leftwards to...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
8a
15
One to One
Climb the wall to the left of the big flake of Under Western Eyes. There is currently no lower-off for the route and the upper...
 
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
16
Under Western Eyes
Climb the leaning flake to a roof (peg). Pull over to gain a big ledge. Either walk off rightwards, or tackle the groove above...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6b
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

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