Dover's Wall

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At the northern extremity of the Popular End, the last gasp of the superb right-hand side of the cliff usually has a team or two in place. There is a bunch of good cracks here and strange goings-on around the Cleft Wing.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Bumbler's Arete
Bumble up the teeny arete on the left.
 M
2
A Black Ying
This one is a titchy little groove route.
 M
3
Beady Eye
The arete can be climbed on either side at about the same grade.
1 user comment
 VS
4
Long Reaches
The centre of the wall. The grade is totally height dependant.
1 user comment
 HVS
5
Newhaven
The pleasant corner at the left-hand side of the wall.
4 user comments
 Diff
6
Ramsgate
Romp up the face 1m right of the corner.
1 user comment
 S
7
Dieppe
Use the thin diagonal crack to climb the wall
1 user comment
 S
8
Falaise de Douvre
Cross the ramp and head straight up the steep wall.
1 user comment
 VS
9
Dover's Wall, Route 3
Follow the ramp, then the bulging crack, to a hard finish.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
10
Nothing to do with Dover
The straightforward crack and the bulges above. Strenuous.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
11
Dover's Wall, Route 2
Climb the thin crack (third from the right) to a steep thrilling finish. Beware the big wobbly spike on the right before the...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
12
Dover's Wall Route 1.5
Try to climb the narrow and narrowing face without recourse to the routes to either side.
1 user comment
 HVS
13
Dover's Wall, Route 1
The thin crack (second from the right) leads past a useful horn.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
14
Dover's Wall, Route 4
Climb the tricky crack left of the arete, to an awkward bulge.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
15
Wing Buttress Gully
The deep cleft gives pleasant bridging when not too green.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Diff
16
On a Wing and a Prayer
Gain a small ledge 3m up the arete and continue over a nose. Climb the wall left of the roof to finish at a rocking stone.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
17
Wing Buttress
Start on the left wall of the cleft, at some polished footholds. Make delicate moves to better holds, swing left along the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
18
5.9 Finish
Follow either of the previous climbs, but cross the roof rightwards via a thin flake to a tough exit - E1 5b in English.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5a
19
Cleft Wing
Start as for Wing Buttress to the flake-crack that runs up to the overhang. About face, flop across the gap, and swing rapidly...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
20
Cleft Wing Superdirect
Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess, then hand traverse the overhanging right wall, swinging round the arete to finish...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
21
Trimming the Beard
Layback the hairy leaning arete. f6A with mats.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3
22
Spearing the Bearded Clam
The tricky leaning arete on its right side is bold.
 E2
23
Taking a Winger
The centre of the front face of the wing on sloping holds eases after a tricky start.
3 user comments
 E1
24
Wing Wall
The slabby rib on the right is tricky (useful holly) to a sloping ledge, then traverse left to an easy crack.
1 user comment
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    The Mersey Variant
    "It is steep and the top end of 5C but has good hard moves, between good gear, to..." 02/Sep

    Via Roof Route
    "Two highly contrasting pitches: precarious slab climbing - usually on rock that ..." 20/Aug

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

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