Dover's Wall

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Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

Doverís Wall is the northern extremity of The Popular End. The last gasp of the superb right-hand side of the cliff usually has a team or two in place. There are a bunch of good cracks here and some more open routes as well as the strange goings-on around the Cleft Wing. Guidebook page 154.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Newhaven
6m. The pleasant corner at the left-hand side of the wall.
3 user comments
 D
2
Ramsgate
6m. Romp up the face 1m right of the corner.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
S 4b
3
Dieppe
10m. Use the thin diagonal crack to climb the wall
1 user comment
 S 4b
4
Dover's Wall, Route 3
10m. Follow the ramp, then the bulging crack, to a hard finish.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
5
Nothing to do with Dover
12m. The straightforward crack and then the bulges above. Pleasantly strenuous.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
6
Dover's Wall, Route 2
12m. Climb the thin crack (third from the right) to reach a thrilling finish (stay direct) up the overhanging flakes.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
7
Dover's Wall, Route 1
12m. The thin crack (second from the right) leads to a useful horn which is passed awkwardly on the left.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4b
8
Dover's Wall, Route 4
10m. Climb the tricky crack immediately left of the right-hand arete of the wall, to an awkward bulge.
2 user comments
 VS 4b
9
Wing Buttress Gully
12m. The cleft gives pleasant bridging.
 
1 Stars
D
10
On a Wing and a Prayer
12m. Gain a small ledge 3m up the arete and continue over a nose. Climb the wall left of the roof to finish at a rocking stone.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
11
Wing Buttress
14m. Start on the left wall of the cleft, at some polished footholds. Make delicate moves to better holds, swing left along the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5b
12
5.9 Finish
12m. Follow either of the previous climbs, but cross the roof rightwards via a thin flake to an ungainly exit.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
13
Cleft Wing
12m. Start as for the previous routes to reach the flake-crack that runs up to the overhang. About face, flop across the gap,...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 5b
14
Cleft Wing Superdirect
12m. Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess then hand traverse the overhanging right-hand wall. Swing round the arete and...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
15
Spearing the Bearded Clam
12m. The tricky leaning arete is bold.
 
Fluttery
E2 5c
16
Taking a Winger
12m. The centre of the front face of the Wing on sloping holds.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
E1 5b
17
Wing Wall
12m. The slabby rib on the right is tricky (useful holly) to reach a sloping ledge, then traverse left to an easy crack.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

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