Dover's Wall

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At the northern extremity of the Popular End, the last gasp of the superb right-hand side of the cliff usually has a team or two in place. There is a bunch of good cracks here and strange goings-on around the Cleft Wing.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Bumbler's Arete
Bumble up the teeny arete on the left.
 M
2
A Black Ying
This one is a titchy little groove route.
 M
3
Beady Eye
The arete can be climbed on either side at about the same grade.
1 user comment
 VS
4
Long Reaches
The centre of the wall. The grade is totally height dependant.
1 user comment
 HVS
5
Newhaven
The pleasant corner at the left-hand side of the wall.
4 user comments
 D
6
Ramsgate
Romp up the face 1m right of the corner.
1 user comment
 S
7
Dieppe
Use the thin diagonal crack to climb the wall
1 user comment
 S
8
Falaise de Douvre
Cross the ramp and head straight up the steep wall.
1 user comment
 VS
9
Dover's Wall, Route 3
Follow the ramp, then the bulging crack, to a hard finish.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
10
Nothing to do with Dover
The straightforward crack and the bulges above. Strenuous.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
11
Dover's Wall, Route 2
Climb the thin crack (third from the right) to a steep thrilling finish. Beware the big wobbly spike on the right before the...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
12
Dover's Wall Route 1.5
Try to climb the narrow and narrowing face without recourse to the routes to either side.
1 user comment
 HVS
13
Dover's Wall, Route 1
The thin crack (second from the right) leads past a useful horn.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
14
Dover's Wall, Route 4
Climb the tricky crack left of the arete, to an awkward bulge.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
15
Wing Buttress Gully
The deep cleft gives pleasant bridging when not too green.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
D
16
On a Wing and a Prayer
Gain a small ledge 3m up the arete and continue over a nose. Climb the wall left of the roof to finish at a rocking stone.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
17
Wing Buttress
Start on the left wall of the cleft, at some polished footholds. Make delicate moves to better holds, swing left along the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
18
5.9 Finish
Follow either of the previous climbs, but cross the roof rightwards via a thin flake to a tough exit - E1 5b in English.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5a
19
Cleft Wing
Start as for Wing Buttress to the flake-crack that runs up to the overhang. About face, flop across the gap, and swing rapidly...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
20
Cleft Wing Superdirect
Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess, then hand traverse the overhanging right wall, swinging round the arete to finish...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
21
Trimming the Beard
Layback the hairy leaning arete. f6A with mats.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3
22
Spearing the Bearded Clam
The tricky leaning arete on its right side is bold.
 E2
23
Taking a Winger
The centre of the front face of the wing on sloping holds eases after a tricky start.
3 user comments
 E1
24
Wing Wall
The slabby rib on the right is tricky (useful holly) to a sloping ledge, then traverse left to an easy crack.
1 user comment
 VD