Dover's Wall

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Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

Doverís Wall is the northern extremity of The Popular End. The last gasp of the superb right-hand side of the cliff usually has a team or two in place. There are a bunch of good cracks here and some more open routes as well as the strange goings-on around the Cleft Wing.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Bumblers' Arete
Bumble up the teeny arete on the left.
 M
2
A Black Ying
This one is a titchy little groove route.
 M
3
Beady Eye
The arete can be climbed on either side at about the same grade.
 
Rounded
VS 5a
4
Long Reaches
The centre of the wall. The grade is totally height dependant.
 
Reachy
HVS 5c
5
Newhaven
The pleasant corner at the left-hand side of the wall.
3 user comments
 D
6
Ramsgate
Romp up the face 1m right of the corner.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
S 4b
7
Dieppe
Use the thin diagonal crack to climb the wall
1 user comment
 S 4b
8
Falaise de Douvre
Cross the ramp and head straight up the steep wall.
 VS 4c
9
Dover's Wall, Route 3
Follow the ramp, then the bulging crack, to a hard finish.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
10
Nothing to do with Dover
The straightforward crack and the bulges above. Strenuous.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
11
Dover's Wall, Route 2
Climb the thin crack (third from the right) to a steep thrilling finish. Beware the big wobbly spike on the right before the...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
12
Dover's Wall Route 1.5
Try to climb the narrow and narrowing face without recourse to the routes to either side.
 HVS 5b
13
Dover's Wall, Route 1
The thin crack (second from the right) leads past a useful horn.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4b
14
Dover's Wall, Route 4
Climb the tricky crack left of the arete, to an awkward bulge.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
15
Wing Buttress Gully
The deep cleft gives pleasant bridging when not too green.
 
1 Stars
D
16
On a Wing and a Prayer
Gain a small ledge 3m up the arete and continue over a nose. Climb the wall left of the roof to finish at a rocking stone.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
17
Wing Buttress
Start on the left wall of the cleft, at some polished footholds. Make delicate moves to better holds, swing left along the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5b
18
5.9 Finish
Follow either of the previous climbs, but cross the roof rightwards via a thin flake to a tough exit - E1 5b in English.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1
19
Cleft Wing
Start as for Wing Buttress to the flake crack that runs up to the overhang. About face, flop across the gap, and swing rapidly...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 5b
20
Cleft Wing Superdirect
Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess, then hand-traverse the overhanging right wall, swinging round the arete to finish...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
21
Trimming the Beard
Layback the hairy leaning arete. V3 6A with mats.
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
22
Spearing the Bearded Clam
The tricky leaning arete on its right side is bold.
 
Fluttery
E2 5c
23
Taking a Winger
The centre of the front face of the wing on sloping holds eases after a tricky start.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
E1 5b
24
Wing Wall
The slabby rib on the right is tricky (useful holly) to a sloping ledge, then traverse left to an easy crack.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

    Inverted V
    "led, forgot how to jam, so pulled up on ledges, great! top L exit." 28/Dec

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