Adjacent Areas
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Dover’s Wall is the northern extremity of The Popular End. The last gasp of the superb right-hand side of the cliff usually has a team or two in place. There are a bunch of good cracks here and some more open routes as well as the strange goings-on around the Cleft Wing. Guidebook page 154.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Newhaven 6m. The pleasant corner at the left-hand side of the wall. 3 user comments | D | |
2 |
Ramsgate 6m. Romp up the face 1m right of the corner. 1 user comment | Reachy | S 4b |
3 |
Dieppe 10m. Use the thin diagonal crack to climb the wall 1 user comment | S 4b | |
4 |
Dover's Wall, Route 3 10m. Follow the ramp, then the bulging crack, to a hard finish. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
5 |
Nothing to do with Dover 12m. The straightforward crack and then the bulges above. Pleasantly strenuous. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5a |
6 |
Dover's Wall, Route 2 12m. Climb the thin crack (third from the right) to reach a thrilling finish (stay direct) up the overhanging flakes. 9 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
7 |
Dover's Wall, Route 1 12m. The thin crack (second from the right) leads to a useful horn which is passed awkwardly on the left. 8 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4b |
8 |
Dover's Wall, Route 4 10m. Climb the tricky crack immediately left of the right-hand arete of the wall, to an awkward bulge. 2 user comments | VS 4b | |
9 |
Wing Buttress Gully 12m. The cleft gives pleasant bridging. | 1 Stars | D |
10 |
On a Wing and a Prayer 12m. Gain a small ledge 3m up the arete and continue over a nose. Climb the wall left of the roof to finish at a rocking stone. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
11 |
Wing Buttress 14m. Start on the left wall of the cleft, at some polished footholds. Make delicate moves to better holds, swing left along the... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5b |
12 |
5.9 Finish 12m. Follow either of the previous climbs, but cross the roof rightwards via a thin flake to an ungainly exit. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | E1 5b |
13 |
Cleft Wing 12m. Start as for the previous routes to reach the flake-crack that runs up to the overhang. About face, flop across the gap,... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | VS 5b |
14 |
Cleft Wing Superdirect 12m. Climb up into the back of the gloomy recess then hand traverse the overhanging right-hand wall. Swing round the arete and... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
15 |
Spearing the Bearded Clam 12m. The tricky leaning arete is bold. | Fluttery | E2 5c |
16 |
Taking a Winger 12m. The centre of the front face of the Wing on sloping holds. 3 user comments | Rounded | E1 5b |
17 |
Wing Wall 12m. The slabby rib on the right is tricky (useful holly) to reach a sloping ledge, then traverse left to an easy crack. | 1 Stars Rounded | VD |
