Nasal Buttress Area

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Trad
Evening sun
25 mins
Uphill

No buttress descriptions have been included yet.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Route 1
18m. Climb left the arete to reach the Pinnacle and climb the centre of its face.
1 user comment
 HS 4b
2
Route II
16m. Follow the left-hand arete throughout.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
3
Slab and Saddle
16m. Climb the slabby face until the upper part of the projecting buttress on the right can be accessed for an exposed finish.
2 user comments
 D
4
Stirrup
16m. Climb the slabs to the hanging groove then move out right and climb the face to join Slab and Saddle.
5 user comments
 S 4a
5
Double Overhangs
14m. The front face of the buttress passing two roofs.
1 user comment
 HVS 5b
6
Cooper's Crack
12m. The crack splitting the roof eases once past the overhang.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4b
7
Sea Route
12m. Tackle the tin crack that splits the centre of the slab.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
8
C Climb
14m. Start on the right and climb leftwards to finish up the final two moves of Cooper's Crack.
 D
9
Green Crack
12m. The curving groove is a compelling line but not a very edifying experience.
 VD
10
Wrinkled Buttress
18m. Climb the lower buttress to a ledge then the upper face on shelving holds.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
11
Curving Crack
12m. Climb the slab to reach the crack as i bends back right.
 VD
12
Danegeld
12m. Climb the face into a scoop. Climb a short crack up the bulging wall and side-step the final overhang.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
13
The Tax Collector
12m. The centre of the wall leads to and through the capping roof.
 E2 5c
14
Knobbly Wall
12m. Climb the flaky wall to a short crack.
3 user comments
 HVD
15
The Direct Route
12m. Climb the right-hand side of the wall on flakes, some of which are a bit creaky.
 VD
16
The Director's Route
12m. A diagonal from the foot of The Direct Route to the top left corner of the face.
1 user comment
 HVD
17
The Moocher
12m. Flakes on the right-hand edge of the wall lead to bulges which can be outflanked or climbed direct.
 VS 4b
18
Eyebrow
18m. Climb the northern side of the jutting buttress with a short excursion into the groove on the left and a finish on the...
1 user comment
 S 4a
19
Nasal Buttress
16m. Climb the steep arete with the nose being passed on the left. FA. George Bower early 1920s
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
HS 4b
20
Eight Hours!
16m. Climb the right-hand face of the buttress. FA. Chris Hardy 1984
 E1 5a
21
Crack and Chimney
14m. The widening rift.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
22
The Changeling
16m. The narrow buttress gained from the chimney with a pull over the jammed boulder to finish. (CHECK)
 HS 4b
23
Palpitation
14m. Weave-a-way up the narrow buttress to a finish on the right arete. Bold.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5a
24
Mother's Pride
14m. The upper half of the rib left of the chimney to a finish over the block on top of the cliff.
 E1 5b
25
Capstone Chimney
14m. Climb the chimney to the capstone and an exit under it.
 
1 Stars
M
26
Kitten Cracks
10m. Climb the groove to the roof and creep round the right-hand side of this.
 S 4b
27
Square Chimney
12m. Climb right of the square arete to a platform then take the chimney behind. The cracks just right of the chimney are a...
 D
28
Central Tower
18m. Ascend the buttress front with a jig right and left through the bulges, then finish slightly right up the final slab.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
29
Tower Arete
18m. The arete that forms the right-hand edge of the buttress.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
30
Left Embrasure
16m. The crack rising from the left-hand edge of a shallow recess is pleasant.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
31
Right Embrasure
14m The right-hand crack is difficult to access and altogether more of a battle. FA. Barry Kershaw 1958
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONES EDGE

    Question Mark
    "Great climb that I though actually easier than Answer Crack. Maybe I jam better ..." 30/Sep

    Knobbly Wall
    "Yep I would also say this is Harder than HVD - that last moves are just plain aw..." 06/Oct

    Central Tower
    "A quality route that maybe a little trickier for those who are vertically challe..." 05/Oct

    Danegeld
    "Fiend sums it up nicely. A good route" 10/Aug

    Double Overhangs
    "Quite a ferocious start. Good banter" 28/Sep

    Route II
    "An attractive line but the rock is very rotten, and the top block is very bold. ..." 04/Jul

    Answer Crack
    "first proper layback climb i have done and proberbly the last because it is ..." 30/Nov top50

    Crack and Chimney
    "Where's this supposed to finish, up the crack on the left, straight up the back,..." 27/Oct

    Crack and Chimney
    "i did it when i was 5 realy easy i am 12 now, climbing at vs 4c now" 12/Jan

    Nasal Buttress
    "Brilliant route, you certainly get your money's worth. Sustained, absorbing with..." 22/Sep

    Knobbly Wall
    "Fully agree with previous comment. Enjoyed this route a lot, but definitely und..." 02/Sep

    Sea Route
    "Legs were wobbling on the crux, especially when your last bit of semi-good gear ..." 31/Jul

    Knobbly Wall
    "Nice climbing but quite a few loose holds and felt harder than HVD." 17/Jul

    Full Stop
    "Excellent route, more than well protected, one move wonder really, still nice cl..." 25/Jan

    Hanging Crack
    "Absolute Dynamite! great route, great jams." 10/Aug

    Maggie
    "I really enjoyed this route although the start is a bit of a let down. The arete..." 08/Aug

    The Catwalk
    "I dont thnk this route merits a 4a tech grade, its very easy all the way but ver..." 08/Aug

    Nasal Buttress
    "This is pretty challenging compared to other HS I have climbed and all the bette..." 06/May

    The Director's Route
    "Dirty and some of the flakes are clearly not long for this world." 03/May

    Answer Crack
    "Absolutley brilliant, best route of its grade on Dovvies and deserves the three ..." 13/Feb top50

    Answer Crack
    "Having climbed Heaven Crack the other day, Answer crack is definitely better IMO..." 05/Jan top50

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