Adjacent Areas
< Main Wall | Tranquility Area >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill
40 minsWindy
Restricted Access
The main wall of the cliff is the show-piece of the place with many fine climbs on good rock. It also gets plenty of sun.
Approach from below. Phone 01457 872094 to get permission.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Scratchnose Crack 16m. The hanging groove is awkward to enter and easier above. The name is a warning not to get in too deep when passing the... | 1 Stars | VS 5a |
2 |
Papillon 16m. Climb the slender pillar, reaching its base from Twin Crack Corner. | E1 5b | |
3 |
Twin Crack Corner 16m. Climb Scratchnose to the first ledge then step right and follow the excellent groove throughout. 4 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
4 |
False Prospects 16m. Climb the corner past an overhang to reach the hanging arete on the right. Climb this and the diagonal crack above. | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
5 |
Fairy Nuff 18m. A real classic, nuff said! Climb the wall below the big square roof leftwards to the arete. Follow this the step right to... 6 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
6 |
Leprechauner 16m. The long handing groove is a bit of a battle. Large gear (the bigger the better) is a good idea. | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
7 |
Kremlin Wall 14m. The thin crack splitting the smooth wall is approached easily and climbed directly with difficulty especially for short,... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | E1 5c |
8 |
Laybackadaisical 14m. Follow a groove rightwards to the roof, move left and climb the bold and strenuous crack. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4b |
9 |
Obyoyo 14m. Climb the wall to the roof then gain the hanging crack on the right with difficulty. Finish more easily. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
10 |
The Trouble with Women is.... 14m. Climb directly up the left-hand side of the face, the crux being the upper section. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
11 |
Womanless Wall 18m. Trend left up the lower wall to a large flake, move up to some big rounded pockets the swing right to a final crack. 9 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
12 |
Stuck 12m. Climb the right-hand side of the wall via a blind crack and a couple of small flakes to a finish up the easier wall above. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E4 6a |
13 |
Unstuck 10m. The pebbly wall is climbed desperately to the twin flakes on Stuck. | E4 6b | |
14 |
Diddley Dum Overhang 10m. Tackle the tough finger-crack above the cave recess. | HVS 5b | |
15 |
Pocked Wall 10m. Follow the spoor trail exiting right. 3 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
16 |
Touch of Spring 10m. The steep juggy crack. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
