Fairy Nuff Area

Adjacent Areas
< Main Wall  |  Tranquility Area >

Trad
Lots of sun!
40 mins
Uphill
Restricted Access

The main wall of the cliff is the show-piece of the place with many fine climbs on good rock. It also gets plenty of sun.
Approach from below. Phone 01457 872094 to get permission.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Scratchnose Crack
16m. The hanging groove is awkward to enter and easier above. The name is a warning not to get in too deep when passing the...
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
2
Papillon
16m. Climb the slender pillar, reaching its base from Twin Crack Corner.
 E1 5b
3
Twin Crack Corner
16m. Climb Scratchnose to the first ledge then step right and follow the excellent groove throughout.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
4
False Prospects
16m. Climb the corner past an overhang to reach the hanging arete on the right. Climb this and the diagonal crack above.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
5
Fairy Nuff
18m. A real classic, nuff said! Climb the wall below the big square roof leftwards to the arete. Follow this the step right to...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
6
Leprechauner
16m. The long handing groove is a bit of a battle. Large gear (the bigger the better) is a good idea.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
7
Kremlin Wall
14m. The thin crack splitting the smooth wall is approached easily and climbed directly with difficulty especially for short,...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E1 5c
8
Laybackadaisical
14m. Follow a groove rightwards to the roof, move left and climb the bold and strenuous crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
9
Obyoyo
14m. Climb the wall to the roof then gain the hanging crack on the right with difficulty. Finish more easily.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
10
The Trouble with Women is....
14m. Climb directly up the left-hand side of the face, the crux being the upper section.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
11
Womanless Wall
18m. Trend left up the lower wall to a large flake, move up to some big rounded pockets the swing right to a final crack.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
12
Stuck
12m. Climb the right-hand side of the wall via a blind crack and a couple of small flakes to a finish up the easier wall above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E4 6a
13
Unstuck
10m. The pebbly wall is climbed desperately to the twin flakes on Stuck.
 E4 6b
14
Diddley Dum Overhang
10m. Tackle the tough finger-crack above the cave recess.
 HVS 5b
15
Pocked Wall
10m. Follow the spoor trail exiting right.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
16
Touch of Spring
10m. The steep juggy crack.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For STANDING STONES

    Twin Crack Corner
    "Forget 'MVS', how about HS 4b, a far too underused grade?" 21/May

    Fish-meal and Revenge
    "On sighted this yesterday and thought E5. Have no idea where you could stop and..." 12/May

    Fat Old Sun
    "Surprisingly amenable. Good route. Made me think maybe I boulder too much........." 03/Jul

    Right of Pie
    "at E3 5c I think it sensible to use an obvious hold (layaway seem to recall) on ..." 22/Jun

    Ocean Wall
    "Lovely, lovely, lovely. A bit reachy but still- gues what - lovely!" 17/Oct top50

    Fairy Nuff
    "Brilliant stuff, every time you think you've done the crux, the next bit turns o..." 13/Jun

    Fish-meal and Revenge
    "Probably worthy of E5. It would be a close call if you came off before clipping ..." 22/May

    Laybackadaisical
    "Not sure were HS 4b votes come from - sandbagging? After seconding this and Ocea..." 20/May

    Ocean Wall
    "NEVER 5c. 5b but absolutely mint..." 11/May top50

    Kon-Tiki Korner
    "VS 4b and no pushover at that! Chris" 11/May

    Ocean Wall
    "tried it last night amongs a herd of midges i failed to get up the overhanging a..." 09/Aug top50

    Fallen Heroes
    "Maybe you should just settle for:- 12m. The leaning crack is hereabouts. FA. ..." 03/Jun

    Search for comments