Verandah Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

These impressively steep and multiple-stacked overhangs are home to a set of hard climbs. The original Guillotine has been eclipsed by more modern, more direct, and harder, offerings. The shorter walls to the left and right have a nice set of pitches at a markedly lower grade than the front face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Recess Rib
8m. The narrow rib forming the left edge of the gloomy recess.
 VD
2
Pisa Pillar
8m. A leaning pillar is reached via a small bulge and is soon over.
 S 4a
3
Hidden Crack
8m. An odd trip behind the pillar, through a 'skylight' and up the green corner beyond.
 VD
4
Pisa Crack
10m. The leaning groove in the right-hand side of the recess leads to a tough exit round the roof at the top.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HS 4c
5
Plastic Dream
14m. The undercut left arete of the buttress is hard to start, requiring flexibility and ingenuity. Once established things...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
6
Headless Chicken
14m. Climb leftwards via a line of tiny flakes then stretch left to holds below the hanging 'guillotine'. Keep right of this to...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E5 6b
7
Off With His Head
14m. Climb the centre of the face to a tiny ledge, step left and go up to the lip of the overhang then trend left past a marked...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6b
8
Guillotine Direct
14m. Start as for Off With His Head but at the roof step right and pull through just right of the scar to join The Guillotine.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 6b
9
The Guillotine
16m. Start up the centre of the lower wall but swing right (poor wires) under the roofs to a rest on the right. Traverse the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
10
The Old Dragon
14m. Climb the steep shallow groove on the right-hand side of the overhanging face to a good ledge. The holds are better than...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
11
Fit as a Butcher's Dog
12m. Tackle the gruesome roof crack then finish up the open wall directly above the shelf.
 
Strong
E1 5c
12
Verandah Buttress
14m. The Verandah is gained at its bottom right-hand corner, usually by a torrid struggle. The loss of a block many years ago...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
HVD 5b
13
Butcher Crack
12m. Start as for Verandah Buttress to the shelf then continue direct via a short crack and a final looooong stretch.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5b
14
One Stop Shopping
12m. An eliminate straight up the wall.
 
Reachy
Crimpy
E1 6a
15
Greengrocer Wall
10m. The wall to the left of the corner-cracks has a fingery start using a thin diagonal crack. Continue up the wall passing a...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5c
16
Verandah Cracks Left
8m. The left twin crack is awkward where it widens.
 VD
17
Verandah Cracks Right
8m. The right twin is milder giving pleasant bridging.
 D
18
Verandah Wall
10m. The centre of the wall to the right of the corner has some rounded holds and is surprisingly steep.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
VS 4c
19
Cocktails
8m. From the small overhang trend left though the bulge then finish directly up the rib.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
20
Verandah Pillar
8m. Climb the left-facing flakes to a well protected finish.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
21
The Confectioner
6m. The rib on the right is approached from the right.
4 user comments
 
Technical
VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

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