Adjacent Areas
< BAW's Crawl Area | Roundabout Buttress >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
20 minsWindy
These impressively steep and multiple-stacked overhangs are home to a set of hard climbs. The original Guillotine has been eclipsed by more modern, more direct, and harder, offerings. The shorter walls to the left and right have a nice set of pitches at a markedly lower grade than the front face. Guidebook page 156.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Recess Rib 8m. The narrow rib forming the left edge of the gloomy recess. | VD | |
2 |
Pisa Pillar 8m. A leaning pillar is reached via a small bulge and is soon over. | S 4a | |
3 |
Hidden Crack 8m. An odd trip behind the pillar, through a 'skylight' and up the green corner beyond. | VD | |
4 |
Pisa Crack 10m. The leaning groove in the right-hand side of the recess leads to a tough exit round the roof at the top. 1 user comment | Technical | HS 4c |
5 |
Plastic Dream 14m. The undercut left arete of the buttress is hard to start, requiring flexibility and ingenuity. Once established things... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
6 |
Headless Chicken 14m. Climb leftwards via a line of tiny flakes then stretch left to holds below the hanging 'guillotine'. Keep right of this to... | 2 Stars Reachy | E5 6b |
7 |
Off With His Head 14m. Climb the centre of the face to a tiny ledge, step left and go up to the lip of the overhang then trend left past a marked... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Strong | E4 6b |
8 |
Guillotine Direct 14m. Start as for Off With His Head but at the roof step right and pull through just right of the scar to join The Guillotine. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | E4 6b |
9 |
The Guillotine 16m. Start up the centre of the lower wall but swing right (poor wires) under the roofs to a rest on the right. Traverse the... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
10 |
The Old Dragon 14m. Climb the steep shallow groove on the right-hand side of the overhanging face to a good ledge. The holds are better than... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
11 |
Fit as a Butcher's Dog 12m. Tackle the gruesome roof crack then finish up the open wall directly above the shelf. | Strong | E1 5c |
12 |
Verandah Buttress 14m. The Verandah is gained at its bottom right-hand corner, usually by a torrid struggle. The loss of a block many years ago... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Rounded | HVD 5b |
13 |
Butcher Crack 12m. Start as for Verandah Buttress to the shelf then continue direct via a short crack and a final looooong stretch. 7 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy | HVS 5b |
14 |
One Stop Shopping 12m. An eliminate straight up the wall. | Reachy Crimpy | E1 6a |
15 |
Greengrocer Wall 10m. The wall to the left of the corner-cracks has a fingery start using a thin diagonal crack. Continue up the wall passing a... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | HVS 5c |
16 |
Verandah Cracks Left 8m. The left twin crack is awkward where it widens. | VD | |
17 |
Verandah Cracks Right 8m. The right twin is milder giving pleasant bridging. | D | |
18 |
Verandah Wall 10m. The centre of the wall to the right of the corner has some rounded holds and is surprisingly steep. 1 user comment | Rounded | VS 4c |
19 |
Cocktails 8m. From the small overhang trend left though the bulge then finish directly up the rib. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
20 |
Verandah Pillar 8m. Climb the left-facing flakes to a well protected finish. 5 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
21 |
The Confectioner 6m. The rib on the right is approached from the right. 4 user comments | Technical | VS 5a |
