Verandah Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

These impressively steep and multiple-stacked overhangs are home to a set of hard climbs. The original Guillotine has been eclipsed by more modern, more direct, and harder, offerings. The shorter walls to the left and right have a nice set of pitches at a markedly lower grade than the front face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Plastic Dream
The undercut left arete of the buttress is tricky to start, requiring flexibility and maybe a bit of ingenuity. Once...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
2
Tarzan Boy
A route to nowhere. Climb straight up to the dodgy looking hanging flake then shimmy left below this to finish up Plastic...
 
Fluttery
E3 6a
3
Headless Chicken
Climb left via a line of tiny flakes then stretch left to holds below the hanging 'guillotine'. Keep right of this to the roof,...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E5 6b
4
Off With His Head
Climb the centre of the face to a tiny ledge, step left and go up to the lip of the overhang then trend left past a well-marked...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6b
5
Guillotine Direct
Cut out the loop on the regular route by making a couple of fierce moves over the roof that it skirts round.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 6b
6
The Guillotine
Devious, hard work and excellent. Start up the centre of the lower wall but swing right (poor wires) under the roofs to a rest...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
7
The Old Dragon
Climb the steep shallow groove on the right-hand side of the overhanging face to a good ledge. The holds are better than you...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
8
Mary Whitehouse
Follow then lip of the overhang rightwards then escape right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V3 6A
9
Verandah Buttress Direct
Climb direct over the roof.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V7 7A+
10
Fit as a Butcher's Dog
Tackle the gruesome roof crack then finish up the open wall directly above the shelf.
 
Strong
Graunchy
E1 5c
11
Verandah Buttress
The polished sloping shelf of The Verandah is gained at its bottom right-hand corner, usually by a torrid struggle - combined...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
HVD 5b
12
Butcher Crack
Start as for Verandah Buttress to the shelf then continue direct via a short crack and a final l-o-o-o-o-o-ng stretch.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5b
13
One Stop Shopping
An eliminate straight up the wall has some decent moves.
 
Reachy
Crimpy
E1 6a
14
Greengrocer Wall
The wall to the left of the corner cracks has a fingery start using a thin diagonal crack. Continue up the wall passing a...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5c
15
Verandah Cracks Left
The left twin crack is awkward where it widens.
 
Graunchy
VD
16
Verandah Cracks Right
The right twin is milder giving pleasant bridging.
 D
17
Verandah Wall
The centre of the wall to the right of the corner is short but spirited, has some rounded holds and is surprisingly steep.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
VS 4c
18
Cocktails
From the small overhang, trend left through the bulge then finish directly up the rib. Another short one with a bit of a bite.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
19
Verandah Pillar
Climb the left-facing flakes to a well protected finish.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
20
The Confectioner
The rib on the right is approached from the right - sweet.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

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