Adjacent Areas
< Verandah Buttress | Martello Buttress >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
20 minsWindy
This square buttress has a close-packed set of routes and, although only short, they are all steep enough to be memorable. They tend to be less busy than some of the nearby areas. Guidebook page 158.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Intermediate Buttress 8m. Step in from the left and climb the left-hand edge of the north-facing wall via a series of good breaks, to a groping exit. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Rounded | VD |
2 |
The Nose 12m. Hand traverse out right along the lowest breaks to reach the well-positioned arete. A pumpy little number. 10 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
3 |
Jaygo's Pipe 10m. Start under the centre of the buttress and pull straight through the bulges, then climb direct to a rounded exit. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Rounded | VS 4c |
4 |
Second Wind 12m. From the centre of the west-facing wall of the buttress, hand traverse left and pull into a short crack with difficulty.... | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | HVS 5c |
5 |
Swings 10m. Climb the centre of the buttress with difficulty, to jugs and runners. Continue up the steep groove and overhang. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | E1 5c |
6 |
Turf Crack 8m. The grass-less groove is a piece of well protected bridging. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VD |
7 |
Little Tower 8m. Climb the short arete, avoiding the routes on either side. Only short but pumpy and awkward to protect. 6 user comments | Pumpy | VS 4c |
8 |
49 Bikinis 8m. Climb steeply up the centre of the buttress and then pull through the overhangs that cap the wall. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |