Martello Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
18 mins
Uphill

Originally named because of a vague resemblance to the Martello Towers, set up on the south coast back in 1804, as protection against a possible invasion by Napoleon and his army. Unlike those towers, this buttress contains some fine routes with steep starts and rounded, airy finishes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Intermediate Buttress
Step in from the left then climb the left-hand edge of the north-facing wall via a series of good breaks, to a groping exit.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVD 4a
2
Jaygo's Pipe
Straight up the centre of the buttress to a rounded exit.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
3
The Nose
Hand-traverse out right along the low break to the arete. Pumpy.
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
VS 4c
4
Second Wind
Hand-traverse left and pull into a short crack with difficulty. Continue up the right-hand side of the arete via a tricky...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E1 5c
5
Swings
Climb the centre of the buttress - tough - to jugs and runners. V2 to here for boulderers. Continue up the steep groove and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5c
6
Turf Crack
The grass-less groove is a piece of well-protected bridging.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
7
Little Tower
The short arete avoiding the routes on either side. Tricky gear.
6 user comments
 
Pumpy
VS 4c
8
49 Bikinis
Steeply up the centre of the face and then through the bulges.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
9
Little Tower Chimney
The left-hand rift in the back of the bay.
 
Graunchy
D
10
Little Tower Chimney Right
 
Graunchy
VD
11
Beads
The thin green crack splitting the wall in the gloomy gully.
1 user comment
 S 4a
12
Trinket
This is the dinky arete just right.
 VD
13
Narrowing Chimney

3 user comments
 
Graunchy
D
14
Byne's Route
Climb into a recess with a block, exit right to a short wide crack zigging up the wall to a rounded finish just left of the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
Graunchy
HS 4b
15
Zel
Climb Byne's Route to the top of the first crack then cross the wall leftwards to the arete and follow this on its right-hand...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
VS 4c
16
Choux
Pass the left edge of the roof then climb the centre of the wall.
 
Technical
E2 6a
17
Choux Fleur
Struggle around the right edge of the overhang, reach left to a block and use this to get onto the wall. Finish direct.
 
Reachy
E1 5c
18
Another Game of Bowls Sir Walter?
Up a short flake just right of the arete to where awkward moves gain better holds. Continue steeply right of the arete -...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E1 5b
19
Martello Buttress
The original classic here. Climb either side of the left-hand jammed block, then continue direct for 6m until a ledge on the...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
20
The Scoop
Start to the right of Martello Buttress at a second jammed block.âÄàMove up and left into an open shallow scoop where long...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Rounded
HVS 5b
21
Bloodshot
Start up a leaning groove on the right moving left to a small ledge. Step right and climb the bulge on sloping holds and with...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
22
The Old Scoop
An earlier climb with the same name. Climb an awkward slanting crack then trend back up the left edge of the open scoop.
5 user comments
 VS 4c
23
Martello Cracks
The parallel cracks in the slabby angle, a nice intro to grit.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
M
24
Mistella
Move right to the middle of the face and climb to a high crux.
7 user comments
 
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
VS
25
Mistella Right
Finishing up the arete is more logical and more pleasant.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
26
Phlegethoa
From under the nose, swing right onto the arete and make hard move to easier ground. Continue to the horizontal break and the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
27
Fading Star
The perplexing bulge - the tall will be able to mantelshelf it but shorties may have to resort to pulling on the nonexistent...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E2
28
Saliva
A thin crack gains a committing traverse to finish steeply up the right-hand side of the arete. A dry-mouthed VS for many...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
29
Ashes
From the thin crack of Saliva, continue boldly to a large horizontal break, and runners. Finish up the steep wall above.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
Loose
E3 5c
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