Martello Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Roundabout Buttress  |  Heaven Crack Area >

Trad
Afternoon sun
18 mins
Uphill

Originally named because of a vague resemblance to the Martello Towers, set up on the south coast back in 1804, as protection against a possible invasion by Napoleon and his army. Unlike those towers, this buttress contains some fine routes with steep starts and rounded, airy finishes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Beads
6m. The thin green crack splitting the wall in the gully.
1 user comment
 S 4a
2
Narrowing Chimney
8m. The grotty looking chimney on the left of the buttress narrows as it rises. It is straightforward and pleasant when dry.
3 user comments
 D
3
Byne's Route
14m. Get into the recess then exit right to a short and rather too wide jamming crack which is followed as it zigzags, to reach...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
HS 4b
4
Zel
12m. Climb Byne’s Route to the top of the crack then cross the wall leftwards to the arete and follow this on its right-hand...
2 user comments
 VS 4c
5
Choux
14m. Improvise a way past the left edge of the roof then climb the centre of the wall direct.
 
Technical
E2 6a
6
Choux Fleur
14m. Struggle around the right-hand edge of the overhang then reach left to a block. Use this to get established on the wall...
 
Reachy
E1 5c
7
Another Game of Bowls Sir Walter?
14m. Climb a short flake just right of the arete then make awkward moves to better holds. Continue steeply keeping right of the...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E1 5b
8
Martello Buttress
16m. The original classic of the buttress. Climb either side of the large jammed block (crux) to gain its tip, then continue...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
9
The Scoop
16m. Start to the right of Martello Buttress at a second jammed block. Move up and left into an open shallow scoop where long...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Rounded
HVS 5b
10
Bloodshot
16m. Start up a leaning groove on the right and move up and left to a small ledge. Step right and climb the overhang using...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
11
The Scoop
16m. An earlier climb with the same name - odd! Climb the awkward slanting crack (crux) almost into Martello Cracks and then...
5 user comments
 VS 4c
12
Martello Cracks
10m. The parallel cracks in the slabby angle form a pleasant introduction to grit.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
M
13
Mistella
12m. Ascend Martello Cracks for 3m then traverse right to finish up the middle of the awkward slabby face.
5 user comments
 
Reachy
Fluttery
S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

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