Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
18 minsWindy
Originally named because of a vague resemblance to the Martello Towers, set up on the south coast back in 1804, as protection against a possible invasion by Napoleon and his army. Unlike those towers, this buttress contains some fine routes with steep starts and rounded, airy finishes. Guidebook page 159.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Beads 6m. The thin green crack splitting the wall in the gully. 1 user comment | S 4a | |
2 |
Narrowing Chimney 8m. The grotty looking chimney on the left of the buttress narrows as it rises. It is straightforward and pleasant when dry. 3 user comments | D | |
3 |
Byne's Route 14m. Get into the recess then exit right to a short and rather too wide jamming crack which is followed as it zigzags, to reach... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Rounded | HS 4b |
4 |
Zel 12m. Climb Byne’s Route to the top of the crack then cross the wall leftwards to the arete and follow this on its right-hand... 2 user comments | VS 4c | |
5 |
Choux 14m. Improvise a way past the left edge of the roof then climb the centre of the wall direct. | Technical | E2 6a |
6 |
Choux Fleur 14m. Struggle around the right-hand edge of the overhang then reach left to a block. Use this to get established on the wall... | Reachy | E1 5c |
7 |
Another Game of Bowls Sir Walter? 14m. Climb a short flake just right of the arete then make awkward moves to better holds. Continue steeply keeping right of the... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded | E1 5b |
8 |
Martello Buttress 16m. The original classic of the buttress. Climb either side of the large jammed block (crux) to gain its tip, then continue... 14 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | VS 4c |
9 |
The Scoop 16m. Start to the right of Martello Buttress at a second jammed block. Move up and left into an open shallow scoop where long... 15 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Pumpy Rounded | HVS 5b |
10 |
Bloodshot 16m. Start up a leaning groove on the right and move up and left to a small ledge. Step right and climb the overhang using... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded Fluttery | E3 5c |
11 |
The Scoop 16m. An earlier climb with the same name - odd! Climb the awkward slanting crack (crux) almost into Martello Cracks and then... 5 user comments | VS 4c | |
12 |
Martello Cracks 10m. The parallel cracks in the slabby angle form a pleasant introduction to grit. 3 user comments | 2 Stars | M |
13 |
Mistella 12m. Ascend Martello Cracks for 3m then traverse right to finish up the middle of the awkward slabby face. 5 user comments | Reachy Fluttery | S 4a |
