Whittaker's Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
2 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

Either side of the descent route into the quarry are two clean walls split by cracks. Unfortunately the easy access of these faces means they have been used by the ‘top rope’ brigade and are now severly battered - maybe it’s the instructors who are in need of some outdoor education?

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Side-step
6m. The left-hand crack to a bulge, side-step this leftwards.
 HS 4b
2
Alldred's Original
6m. The second crack is nothing to dread, far from it!
 VD
3
After the Blitz
6m. Climb the short wall, starting at an embedded block.
 VS 4b
4
Whittaker's Original
6m. The third crack in the wall is the pick of the bunch.
 
2 Stars
HS 4a
5
Meanwhile
6m. The right-hand crack in the face.
 S 4a
6
Because
6m. .. itÕs there. The right arete of the short wall.
 HS 4a
7
Minor
6m. The narrow boulder problem wall on the left side of the face.
 
Technical
HVS 5c
8
Nightmare
8m. The inverted Y cracks are pleasant if somewhat polished through over-use.
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
9
Elaine
8m. A problematical wall which eases with height. Side-runners can be placed on lead.
 
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5c
10
Wedge
8m. The steep and well-protected jamming crack is popular.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
11
Mark
8m. The final fissure in the wall continues the theme.
 VS 4c
12
Transformation
14m. The fine thin crack leads to a crusty exit.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4c
13
Metamorphosis
16m. Nice wall climbing that would be even better if it stayed clean. Climb the arete to the flake on the left then a ledge....
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4c
14
Ain't Nothing To It
14m. Climb the crack on the right to a peg. Swing left and plough up the arete and finish direct, reachy and bold.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E3 6a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For ANGLEZARKE

    First Finale
    "Not such a soft touch E1 now as the peg has gone and there is a big loose hold a..." 02/Jul

    Many Happy Returns
    "Nowhere near E1 and only just about HVS." 14/Oct

    Many Happy Returns
    "My intrepid leader pulled several very large chunks of the mid-height flake off ..." 11/Aug

    Birthday Crack
    "Worthwhile now that it's clean." 29/Mar

    The Golden Tower
    "Well in my opinion it certainly ain't "super easy for E2"! It's awkwar..." 27/Sep top50

    Klondike
    "Cleaned up early 2010. So where's my fiver, then?" 03/May

    First Finale
    "Lots of incut holds - almost like a climbing wall! A softer option than trying ..." 05/May

    Fool's Gold
    "Turned up at Anglezarke for the first time ever on April 1st 2009, and guess who..." 14/Apr

    Cotton Terror
    "Tempting and tantalising from below... the crux sequence gradually turns sour as..." 09/Jun

    Tangerine Trip
    "Pumpy it certainly is... keep going because there is a good rest after where you..." 21/Oct

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