Terror Cotta

Adjacent Areas
< Whittaker's Buttress  |  Falkland Walls >

Trad
Morning sun
Up and Down
3 mins
Sheltered

A slabby face on the left and a large red-stained wall of slightly crusty rock on the right, are home to some of the quarry’s more memorable routes. All require at least a little care and the ability to press-on. Guidebook page 257.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Many Happy Returns
14m. The crack splitting the centre of the north facing side wall is sustained and delicate.
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5a
2
Birthday Crack
14m. The main angle is a good line but could do with a few more visitors. Exit left at the top to avoid the grot cornice.
2 user comments
 VS 4b
3
Fingertip Control
16m. A direct on Zarke is bold and reachy with the crux right where you donÕt want it. Memorable moves throughout but a...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E4 5c
4
Zarke
20m. Somewhat bizarre and devious in line, but good, satisfying climbing never-the-less. Mantelshelf onto a narrow ledge then...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
5
First Finale
18m. Well-protected climbing on pleasing holds, and understandably popular. Climb the crack first, passing an overlap early on,...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5b
6
Third Party
18m. The line is clear enough, though the moves are less so, and the top overhang is distinctly disposable.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E3 5c
7
Double Trip
18m. One of the more popular Extremes in the quarry which is technically a tad easier than Golden Tower. Climb the...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E2 5c
8
Terrorific
20m. The direct start to Terror Cotta is bold and fingery..
1 user comment
 E4 6a
9
Terror Cotta
22m. The classic of the wall, imposing but not too hard! Climb the yellowish groove to a ledge, step out left and climb the...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
10
Cotton Terror
18m. From the start of the yellowish groove on Terror Cotta move out right to a crack and follow it to a ledge then climb the...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E1 5a
11
Edipol!
14m. The crack in the wall to the right. Climb the juggy roof and the crack above to ledges. Traverse right to the arete to...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
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  • Latest Comments

    For ANGLEZARKE

    Many Happy Returns
    "Nowhere near E1 and only just about HVS." 14/Oct

    Many Happy Returns
    "My intrepid leader pulled several very large chunks of the mid-height flake off ..." 11/Aug

    Birthday Crack
    "Worthwhile now that it's clean." 29/Mar

    The Golden Tower
    "Well in my opinion it certainly ain't "super easy for E2"! It's awkwar..." 27/Sep top50

    Klondike
    "Cleaned up early 2010. So where's my fiver, then?" 03/May

    First Finale
    "Lots of incut holds - almost like a climbing wall! A softer option than trying ..." 05/May

    Fool's Gold
    "Turned up at Anglezarke for the first time ever on April 1st 2009, and guess who..." 14/Apr

    Cotton Terror
    "Tempting and tantalising from below... the crux sequence gradually turns sour as..." 09/Jun

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