Coal Measures Crag

Adjacent Areas
< The Golden Tower  |  Grey Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down
5 mins
Sheltered

The most bizarre climbing destination in the quarry and perhaps in the country; a wall of good quality gritstone sadly capped by a vertical wall of shattered shale. Helmets are a good idea! Guidebook page 259.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Anasazi Arete
14m. The juggy arete is reached from the left and leads to a ledge. Leaving this to the left of the arete is difficult as is...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
2
Bright Angel Corner
14m. The shallow groove is a bit vegetated but still worthwhile. Follow the corner and cracks in the left wall. Lower off.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
3
Supai Corner
14m. The deep groove is vegetated at the bottom. No lower-off.
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
4
New Jerusalem
14m. Follow the thin slanting crack rightwards to to a juggy ledge and the chance to breathe again. Better holds lead...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6a
5
Shibb
16m. Technical but well-protected. Follow the crack to a niche then reach up and right to a ledge. Take the flake above to a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6b
6
The Karma Mechanic
16m. Spanners for the soul? Climb up to a peg in a break then swing left and make a small hop (or huge span) for a good ledge...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6c
7
Schwartzennegger Mon Amour
16m. Dream on! Climb the groove to its closure then pull up and left past the roof onto the wall with great difficulty....
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6c
8
Gritstone Rain
18m. DonÕt forget the concrete umbrella! Climb the left arete of the third groove to a ledge, enter the groove and take it to a...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
9
Vishnu
18m. The flake in the right wall of the groove leads into the twisting corner above and on to a lower-off below the break.
 HVS 5a
10
The Lean Mean Fighting Machine
18m. From the ledge tackle the thin left-trending crack line by fierce moves until an escape into Vishnu can be made. Not one...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E4 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For ANGLEZARKE

    Many Happy Returns
    "Nowhere near E1 and only just about HVS." 14/Oct

    Many Happy Returns
    "My intrepid leader pulled several very large chunks of the mid-height flake off ..." 11/Aug

    Birthday Crack
    "Worthwhile now that it's clean." 29/Mar

    The Golden Tower
    "Well in my opinion it certainly ain't "super easy for E2"! It's awkwar..." 27/Sep top50

    Klondike
    "Cleaned up early 2010. So where's my fiver, then?" 03/May

    First Finale
    "Lots of incut holds - almost like a climbing wall! A softer option than trying ..." 05/May

    Fool's Gold
    "Turned up at Anglezarke for the first time ever on April 1st 2009, and guess who..." 14/Apr

    Cotton Terror
    "Tempting and tantalising from below... the crux sequence gradually turns sour as..." 09/Jun

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