Heaven Crack

Adjacent Areas
< Martello Buttress  |  Mississippi Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
18 mins
Uphill

The fine fissures of Heaven Crack and Hell Crack are the ever-popular showpiece of this sector although there is plenty of other stuff to keep people busy including the frequently-frustrating Fading Star. Interestingly Hell Crack was once described as having the roughest rock on the cliff, and it is certainly pretty abrasive.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Devil's Chimney
The dark rift in traditional style to an awkward narrowing exit.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VD
2
Stay in the Light
Bridge the outer edge of Devil's Chimney for a different view of the world. Exposed but easier than the VDiff version?
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4b
3
Step-ladder Crack
From the pillar right of Devil's Chimney, pull right to access the hanging crack awkwardly. Climb this, via another hard move,...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 5a
4
Step-ladder Crack Direct
Climb into the base of the crack with difficulty, then finish up the short wall by a final tough and rounded mantelshelf.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5c
5
Dark Water
The wall under the finish of Step Ladder Crack is gained from the right (highish side-runner) and climbed by a ludicrous dyno.
 
Reachy
Dyno
E3 6b
6
Hell Crack
The bulging jamming crack is taken direct and is superb. The initial overhang is the crux and, although well protected, it will...
16 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
7
Still in Limbo
The groove, overhang and wall between Heaven and Hell.
2 user comments
 
Strong
E1 5b
8
Heaven Crack Top 50
The flake crack in the left-hand wall of the descent gully is an ever-popular mini-classic. Layback the flakes to a tricky exit...
24 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VD
9
Lethe
This is the green and reachy wall to the right of Heaven Crack.
 
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
VS 4c
10
Jean's Line
The undistinguished groove and crack at the top of the gully.
 HS 4a
  • Latest Comments

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    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

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