Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
18 minsWindy
The fine fissures of Heaven Crack and Hell Crack are the ever-popular showpiece of this sector although there is plenty of other stuff to keep people busy including the frequently-frustrating Fading Star. Interestingly Hell Crack was once described as having the roughest rock on the cliff, and it is certainly pretty abrasive. Guidebook page 160.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Phlegethoa 12m. From under the nose, swing right onto the arete and make a tricky move to get established, then continue to the horizontal... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
2 |
Fading Star 12m. Approach the roof by Phlegethoa or Saliva, move right and make a fierce move to reach the next break - the tall will be... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E3 6b |
3 |
Saliva 16m. Climb the thin crack on the right then make a committing traverse leftwards until it is possible to climb up and left to... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
4 |
Ashes 12m. From the thin crack of Saliva, continue boldly to a large horizontal break, and the first useful runners. Finish up the... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery Loose | E3 5c |
5 |
Devil's Chimney 12m. The dark rift that separates the walls is tackled in traditional style to an awkward narrowing exit. 3 user comments | 2 Stars | D |
6 |
Stay in the Light 14m. It is possible to bridge up the outer edge of the Devil's Chimney - exposed climbing but with good protection. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HS 4a |
7 |
Step-ladder Crack 14m. From a short distance up Devil's Chimney, pull awkwardly right to access the crack. Climb this, via one hard move, then... 6 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 5a |
8 |
Step-ladder Crack Direct 12m. Climb directly into the base of the crack with difficulty, then finish up the short wall, where the regular route scoots... | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5c |
9 |
Hell Crack 14m. The bulging jamming crack is taken direct and is superb. The initial overhang is the crux and although well protected, it... 16 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | VS 4b |
10 |
Still in Limbo 10m. The groove, overhang and wall between Heaven and Hell. Beware the rocking block in the first big break. 2 user comments | E1 5b | |
11 |
Heaven Crack Top 50 10m. The flake-crack in the left-hand wall of the descent gully is an evergreen micro-classic. Layback the flakes to a tricky... 24 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | VD |