Mississippi Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Heaven Crack  |  Balcony Buttress >

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Afternoon sun
18 mins
Uphill

Perhaps the finest buttress on Stanage, a magnificent jutting bastion of gritstone with a great set of climbs. Mississippi Buttress Direct is one of the very best VS routes anywhere on grit and the nearby offerings of Congo Corner at HVS and The Link at E1 means that these ever-popular grades are well covered. Towards the lower end of the grade spectrum, Mississippi Chimney is a good beginnerís route and Amazon Crack is an excellent Severe.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Acheron
A worthwhile route up the left side of The Louisiana Rib. A reachy pull and delicate step from the break give a bold crux.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E1 5b
2
The Louisiana Rib
Devious and worthwhile. Climb the crack on the left then traverse to the right arete. Up this awkwardly on its left-hand side...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
3
Finger Licking Good
A fingery eliminate direct up the centre of the face with some neat moves along the way.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
E1 5b
4
The Levée
Start just left of the Chimney and climb direct, through the crux of The Louisiana Rib to a finish on the right.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5b
5
Mississippi Chimney
Enter the chimney by a steep blocky crack. Above this the main fissure is followed more easily. A decent beginners' climb.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
6
African Herbs
The bold rib high on the left sees very few visitors.
 
Fluttery
E3 5c
7
Dark Continent
A fine climb up the left-hand side of the face. Pull through the roof using a flake-crack then easier climbing leads to a blank...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E1 5c
8
Congo Corner
A breath-taking pitch of outstanding quality. The technical thin crack leads to a rest below the overhangs then traverse up and...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
HVS 5b
9
The Link Top 50
A sustained direct on Congo Corner with good rests between the hard moves and low in the grade. Climb Congo Corner to where it...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
10
The Mersey Variant
A bit none-line between adjacent routes but with some decent moves before it runs out of space and blinkers are needed.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E2 5c
11
Mississippi Buttress Direct Top 50
The flaky crack that splits the centre of buttress is one of Stanage's top VS routes, though some odd souls don't rate it....
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
12
Mississippi Variant
Follow Mississippi Buttress Direct to half-height, then move right to reach the right-trending flake. Climb this steeply to an...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
13
Orinoco Flow
An eliminate but worth doing. Climb through the centre of the big roof, do the crux of Mississippi Variant Direct then take the...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E2 5c
14
Mississippi Variant Direct
Climb through the overhangs to a ledge then, from the left-hand end of this (low runners) step awkwardly up and left (much...
17 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
15
Stanleyville
Low in the grade but pretty damn scary. Climb the rib to a ledge then make worrying moves to a break and very poor cam runner....
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
16
Puzzlelock
The blunt rib gives bold pitch on small holds and little gear until above the crux. A bit of an eliminate and low in the grade.
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
17
Morrison's Redoubt
A good route, again low in the grade though the start is quite bold. From a block (low cam) climb the wall using tiny layaways...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E1 5b
18
Melancholy Witness
Another eliminate, up the right arete. Start just right of Morrison's Redoubt and climb the left side of the arete to runners...
 
Fluttery
E3 5c
19
Amazon Crack
The undercut flaky crack is awkward to access (4b for the short) because of the undercut start. Once reached, the main crack...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
S 4a
20
Tributary
The blunt arete just right is rarely travelled and quite tough. A side-runner to the left lowers the grade and the grip a bit.
 
Strong
E2 5b
21
Fallen Pillar Chimney
The odious green rift in the gully leads to a slumped tower which blocks the way. Bridge past this to easy ground.
 
Graunchy
VD
22
Fairy Castle Crack
The angular groove on the right leads past a small overhang and into the continuation groove.
1 user comment
 VD
23
Pixie
Climb the blocky pillar and finish up the thin left slanting flake in the final tower. A bit of an eliminate - blinkers...
2 user comments
 VS 4c
24
Fairy Chimney
The main groove on the left-hand side of the buttress leads past the right side of a jutting block and into a shallow chimney.
 
1 Stars
D
25
Polyfilla
Plugs a gap! The narrowing slab leads to the next route. A finish out right is possible but avoiding the routes either side is...
 VS 4c
26
Balcony Climb
The leaning crack left of the niches in the north-facing wall is followed by well protected climbing on jugs 'n' jams.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
27
Balcony Cracks
Climb to the upper niche past a huge block, then the left arete until it is possible to pull right over the bulge to the final...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
S 4a
28
Nine-Eleven
A line keeping left of the arete to a tricky crux roof near the top.
 
Strong
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

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    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

    Inverted V
    "led, forgot how to jam, so pulled up on ledges, great! top L exit." 28/Dec

    The Scoop
    "Easy with one 5a move, vague line and massively dissapointing for a 3 star route..." 26/Oct

    BAW's Crawl
    "Awesome outing, definitely recommended." 06/Oct top50

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