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Perhaps the finest buttress on Stanage, a magnificent jutting bastion of gritstone with a great set of climbs. Mississippi Buttress Direct is one of the very best VS routes anywhere on grit and the nearby offerings of Congo Corner at HVS and The Link at E1 means that these ever-popular grades are well covered. Towards the lower end of the grade spectrum, Mississippi Chimney is a good beginner’s route and Amazon Crack is an excellent Severe. Guidebook page 162.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Acheron 16m. A worthwhile route taking the left-hand side of The Louisiana Rib. A reachy pull and delicate step from the horizontal... 8 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E1 5b |
2 |
The Louisiana Rib 18m. Devious and worthwhile. Climb the crack on the left then traverse to the right arete. Up this awkwardly on its left-hand... 11 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
3 |
Mississippi Chimney 18m. Enter the chimney by a blocky crack. Above this the main fissure is followed more easily. A good beginner’s climb. 6 user comments | 1 Stars | VD |
4 |
Dark Continent 20m. A fine climb up the left-hand side of the face. Pull through the roof using a flake-crack then easier climbing leads to a... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | E1 5c |
5 |
Congo Corner 24m. A breath-taking pitch of outstanding quality. The technical thin crack leads to a rest below the overhangs then traverse... 11 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Technical | HVS 5b |
6 |
The Link Top 50 22m. A sustained way up the face though with good rests between the hard moves and low in the grade. Climb Congo Corner to... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | E1 5b |
7 |
Mississippi Buttress Direct Top 50 22m. The flaky crack that splits the centre of buttress is one of Stanage's premier VS routes. Start in a leaning groove and... 18 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
8 |
Mississippi Variant 24m. A historical route which has been largely superseded by the Direct but it still sees plenty of attention as the climbing... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | HVS 5a |
9 |
Mississippi Variant Direct 20m. Climb through the overhangs to a ledge then, from the left-hand end of this (low runners) step awkwardly up and left (much... 17 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
10 |
Stanleyville 20m. Low in the grade but harrowing. Climb the rib to the ledge on the previous climb then make worrying moves to a horizontal... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
11 |
Puzzlelock 18m. The blunt rib gives another bold pitch on small holds and with little in the way of useful protection until above the... | Crimpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
12 |
Morrison's Redoubt 18m. A good route with a scary start though low in the grade. From a block (low Friend) climb the wall using tiny layaways to a... 9 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E1 5b |
13 |
Melancholy Witness 18m. Another eliminate making the best of the rock on the right-hand side of the face. Start just right of Morrison’s Redoubt... | Fluttery | E3 5c |
14 |
Amazon Crack 12m. The undercut flaky crack is awkward to access (4b for the short) because of the overhanging start. Once reached the main... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | S 4a |
15 |
Fallen Pillar Chimney 12m. The green narrowing rift in the gully leads to a slumped tower which blocks the way. Bridge past this then exit right. | VD | |
16 |
Fairy Castle Crack 12m. The angular groove on the right leads past a small overhang and into the continuation groove. 1 user comment | VD | |
17 |
Pixie 12m. Climb the blocky pillar and finish up the thin left slanting flake in the final tower. 2 user comments | VS 4c | |
18 |
Fairy Chimney 12m. The parallel cracks in the groove on the left-hand side of the buttress lead past a block and into a shallow chimney. | 1 Stars | D |
19 |
Balcony Climb 12m. The sustained leaning crack left of the niches in the north-facing wall is followed by sustained and steep jamming. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
20 |
Balcony Cracks 14m. Climb to the upper niche, passing a huge jammed block, then take the left arete until it is possible to pull rightwards... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
