Mississippi Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Heaven Crack Area  |  Balcony Buttress >

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Afternoon sun
18 mins
Uphill

Perhaps the finest buttress on Stanage, a magnificent jutting bastion of gritstone with a great set of climbs. Mississippi Buttress Direct is one of the very best VS routes anywhere on grit and the nearby offerings of Congo Corner at HVS and The Link at E1 means that these ever-popular grades are well covered. Towards the lower end of the grade spectrum, Mississippi Chimney is a good beginnerís route and Amazon Crack is an excellent Severe.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Acheron
16m. A worthwhile route taking the left-hand side of The Louisiana Rib. A reachy pull and delicate step from the horizontal...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E1 5b
2
The Louisiana Rib
18m. Devious and worthwhile. Climb the crack on the left then traverse to the right arete. Up this awkwardly on its left-hand...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
3
Mississippi Chimney
18m. Enter the chimney by a blocky crack. Above this the main fissure is followed more easily. A good beginnerís climb.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
4
Dark Continent
20m. A fine climb up the left-hand side of the face. Pull through the roof using a flake-crack then easier climbing leads to a...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E1 5c
5
Congo Corner
24m. A breath-taking pitch of outstanding quality. The technical thin crack leads to a rest below the overhangs then traverse...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
HVS 5b
6
The Link Top 50
22m. A sustained way up the face though with good rests between the hard moves and low in the grade. Climb Congo Corner to...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
7
Mississippi Buttress Direct Top 50
22m. The flaky crack that splits the centre of buttress is one of Stanage's premier VS routes. Start in a leaning groove and...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
8
Mississippi Variant
24m. A historical route which has been largely superseded by the Direct but it still sees plenty of attention as the climbing...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
9
Mississippi Variant Direct
20m. Climb through the overhangs to a ledge then, from the left-hand end of this (low runners) step awkwardly up and left (much...
17 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
10
Stanleyville
20m. Low in the grade but harrowing. Climb the rib to the ledge on the previous climb then make worrying moves to a horizontal...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
11
Puzzlelock
18m. The blunt rib gives another bold pitch on small holds and with little in the way of useful protection until above the...
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
12
Morrison's Redoubt
18m. A good route with a scary start though low in the grade. From a block (low Friend) climb the wall using tiny layaways to a...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E1 5b
13
Melancholy Witness
18m. Another eliminate making the best of the rock on the right-hand side of the face. Start just right of Morrisonís Redoubt...
 
Fluttery
E3 5c
14
Amazon Crack
12m. The undercut flaky crack is awkward to access (4b for the short) because of the overhanging start. Once reached the main...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
S 4a
15
Fallen Pillar Chimney
12m. The green narrowing rift in the gully leads to a slumped tower which blocks the way. Bridge past this then exit right.
 VD
16
Fairy Castle Crack
12m. The angular groove on the right leads past a small overhang and into the continuation groove.
1 user comment
 VD
17
Pixie
12m. Climb the blocky pillar and finish up the thin left slanting flake in the final tower.
2 user comments
 VS 4c
18
Fairy Chimney
12m. The parallel cracks in the groove on the left-hand side of the buttress lead past a block and into a shallow chimney.
 
1 Stars
D
19
Balcony Climb
12m. The sustained leaning crack left of the niches in the north-facing wall is followed by sustained and steep jamming.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
20
Balcony Cracks
14m. Climb to the upper niche, passing a huge jammed block, then take the left arete until it is possible to pull rightwards...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

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