Balcony Buttress

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

A tall buttress with a heathery ledge at half-height on its front face and the classic of Balcony Buttress which always appears to have a team in place. There are other routes here worth doing such as Centre Stage and some easier lines away to the right.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Exit Stage Left
Start under the left edge of the face and climb the bulges to ledges. The next set of bulges are quite reachy. Move left to...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5b
2
Centre Stage
Nice and steady at the grade. Start at ledges below the centre of the face, trend left then right through bulges. Stay left of...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
3
Balcony Buttress Top 50
A great classic. Trend left to a wide crack, climb this to a heathery ledge, then move left to an oddly-awkward flying-flake...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
S 4a
4
Balcony Balustrade
Start just right and climb the thin slab to the roof and good gear. Launch through the overhang on surprisingly good holds.
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
5
The Flue
Climb the left-hand of a pair of parallel cracks then the wide left-trending rift to a narrow and exposed exit where helmets...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
HVD 4a
6
Big Yin
A pleasant line up the rib and scoop above.
 VS 4c
7
Scoop Crack
Climb the right-hand crack in a shallow groove and its continuation, passing the inverted V-shaped niche with difficulty.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4c
8
Rib and Face
The angular rib then the centre of the flat face above.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
VS 4c
9
Balcony Corner
Climb the short wall into a left-facing corner with block overhang. Pass the left-hand side of this to reach easy ground.
2 user comments
 VD
10
Upanover
The small square pillar is accessed via the notch in the roof.
 
Technical
VS 5b
11
Upandover Crack
A tricky but safe move is needed to pass the bulge in the crack.
 S 4b
12
Twinkle Toes
The slab just right, and left of an awkward descent is usually green, though gives a pleasant pitch when dry.
 M
13
Savage Amusement
A dangling girdle of the break running round the Needle, in either direction. Bizarre and well named.
 
Pumpy
E1 5b
14
M Route
The blunt arete on its left side is lacking in gear and reachy too. Not visible on the topo.
 
Reachy
Fluttery
VS 4c
15
Needle Crack
Start from a boulder and head right to a shallow groove. Up this (again little in the way of gear) to an exit under the Needle.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
16
Regret
The wall to the right isn't popular mainly because it is hard and poorly protected, even with a side-runner in Agony Crack.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
17
Agony Crack
Climb the awkward thin crack in the blunt arete to an cramped ledge, then attack the crack that splits the overhang by...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
18
Thrombosis
Climb the groove on the right to a ledge then the left-hand narrow crack above. Hard for the grade though the gear is good!
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
19
Rigor Mortis
Climb Thrombosis to the ledge then continue up the right-hand crack with a finish up the arete if required. Another tricky one.
1 user comment
 VS 4c
20
Paralysis
From the gully climb the shallow groove (poor gear) to a steep but juggy exit via the horizontal breaks.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4b
21
Boris the Bold
The last route on the wall is unremarkable but at least it plugs a gap.
 
Rounded
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

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