Balcony Buttress

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Up and Down
Windy

A tall buttress with a heathery ledge at half-height. The classic of Balcony Buttress always appears to have a team in place. There are other routes here worth doing such as Centre Stage. There are easier lines on the right.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Exit Stage Left
Start under the left edge of the face and climb the bulges to ledges. The next set of bulges is quite reachy. Move left to...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
2
Centre Stage
Nice and steady at the grade. Start at ledges below the centre of the face, trend left then right through bulges. Stay left of...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
3
Balcony Buttress Top 50
A great classic. Trend left to a wide crack, climb this to a heathery ledge, then move left to an oddly-awkward flying-flake...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
S
4
Balcony Balustrade
Start just right and climb the thin slab to the roof and good gear. Launch through the overhang on surprisingly good holds.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
5
The Flue
Climb the left-hand of a pair of parallel cracks then the wide left-trending rift to a narrow and exposed exit where helmets...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
HVD
6
Big Yin
A pleasant line up the rib and scoop above.
1 user comment
 VS
7
Scoop Crack
Climb the right-hand crack in a shallow groove and its continuation, passing the inverted V-shaped niche with difficulty.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS
8
Rib and Face
The angular rib then the centre of the flat face above.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
9
Balcony Corner
Climb the short wall into a left-facing corner with a block overhang. Pass the left-hand side of this to reach easy ground.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
10
Upanover
The small square pillar is accessed via the notch in the roof.
 
Technical
VS
11
Upandover Crack
A tricky but safe move is needed to pass the bulge in the crack.
 S
12
Twinkle Toes
The slab just right, and left of an awkward descent is usually green, though it gives a pleasant pitch when dry.
 M
13
Savage Amusement
A dangling girdle of the break running round the Needle, in either direction. Bizarre and well named.
1 user comment
 E1
14
M Route
The blunt arete on its left side is lacking in gear and reachy too. Not visible on the topo.
1 user comment
 VS
15
Needle Crack
Start from a boulder and head right to a shallow groove. Climb this (again little in the way of gear) to an exit under the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
16
Regret
The wall to the right isn't popular mainly because it is hard and poorly protected, even with a side-runner in Agony Crack.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E4
17
Agony Crack
Climb the awkward thin crack in the blunt arete to a cramped ledge, then attack the crack that splits the overhang by...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS
18
Thrombosis
Climb the groove on the right to a ledge then the left-hand narrow crack above. Hard for the grade though the gear is good!
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
19
Rigor Mortis
Climb Thrombosis to the ledge then continue up the right-hand crack with a finish up the arete if required. Another tricky one.
1 user comment
 VS
20
Paralysis
From the gully climb the shallow groove (poor gear) to a steep but juggy exit via the horizontal breaks.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
21
Boris the Bold
The last route on the wall climbs the face on the right - it is fairly unremarkable but at least it plugs a gap.
1 user comment
 HVS
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Bobsnob
    "E1 5a my arse! E3 5b as least. Some great moves going up for the top little righ..." 30/Mar

    Via Roof Route
    "Two highly contrasting pitches: precarious slab climbing - usually on rock that ..." 20/Aug

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

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