Adjacent Areas
< Mississippi Buttress | Twin Chimneys Buttress >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 minsWindy
A tall buttress with a heathery ledge at half-height on its front face and the classic of Balcony Buttress which always appears to have a team in place. There are other routes here worth doing such as Centre Stage and some easier lines away to the right. Guidebook page 164.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Exit Stage Left 18m. Start under the left edge of the face and climb the bulges (a leg-lock may help) to ledges. The next set of bulges are... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | E1 5b |
2 |
Centre Stage 18m. Start at ledges below the centre of the face, trend left then right through the bulges. Keep left of the wide crack on... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy | HVS 5a |
3 |
Balcony Buttress Top 50 20m. A great classic with the gloss to prove it. From the flat ledge below the right arete of the face trend left to a wide... 9 user comments | 3 Stars | S 4a |
4 |
The Flue 14m. Climb the left-hand of a pair of parallel cracks then the wide left-trending rift to a narrow and exposed exit. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | HVD 4a |
5 |
Scoop Crack 14m. Climb the right-hand parallel crack in a shallow groove and then its continuation, passing the inverted V-shaped niche... 4 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4c |
6 |
Rib and Face 14m. The angular rib then the centre of the flat face above. 2 user comments | VS 4c | |
7 |
Balcony Corner 10m. Climb the short wall into a left-facing corner with a prominent block overhang. Pass the left-hand side of this to reach... 2 user comments | VD | |
8 |
Upanover 10m. The square pillar is accessed via the notch in the roof. | Technical | VS 5b |
9 |
Upandover Crack 10m. A tricky move is needed to pass the bulge in the crack . | S 4b | |
10 |
Needle Crack 10m. Start from a boulder and head right to a shallow groove. Up this (not much gear) to an exit under the Needle. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
11 |
Agony Crack 12m. Climb the awkward thin crack in the blunt arete to an uncomfortable ledge, then attack the crack that splits the overhang... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | HVS 5a |
12 |
Thrombosis 12m. Climb the groove on the right to a ledge then the left-hand narrow crack above. Hard for the grade though the gear is... 13 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 5a |
13 |
Rigor Mortis 14m. Climb Thrombosis to the ledge then continue up the right-hand crack with a finish up the arete if required. Not quite the... 1 user comment | VS 4c | |
14 |
Paralysis 10m. From the gully, climb the shallow groove (poor gear) to a steep but juggy exit via the horizontal breaks. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | VS 4b |
