Balcony Buttress

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Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

A tall buttress with a heathery ledge at half-height on its front face and the classic of Balcony Buttress which always appears to have a team in place. There are other routes here worth doing such as Centre Stage and some easier lines away to the right. Guidebook page 164.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Exit Stage Left
18m. Start under the left edge of the face and climb the bulges (a leg-lock may help) to ledges. The next set of bulges are...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
2
Centre Stage
18m. Start at ledges below the centre of the face, trend left then right through the bulges. Keep left of the wide crack on...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
3
Balcony Buttress Top 50
20m. A great classic with the gloss to prove it. From the flat ledge below the right arete of the face trend left to a wide...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
S 4a
4
The Flue
14m. Climb the left-hand of a pair of parallel cracks then the wide left-trending rift to a narrow and exposed exit.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVD 4a
5
Scoop Crack
14m. Climb the right-hand parallel crack in a shallow groove and then its continuation, passing the inverted V-shaped niche...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4c
6
Rib and Face
14m. The angular rib then the centre of the flat face above.
2 user comments
 VS 4c
7
Balcony Corner
10m. Climb the short wall into a left-facing corner with a prominent block overhang. Pass the left-hand side of this to reach...
2 user comments
 VD
8
Upanover
10m. The square pillar is accessed via the notch in the roof.
 
Technical
VS 5b
9
Upandover Crack
10m. A tricky move is needed to pass the bulge in the crack .
 S 4b
10
Needle Crack
10m. Start from a boulder and head right to a shallow groove. Up this (not much gear) to an exit under the Needle.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
11
Agony Crack
12m. Climb the awkward thin crack in the blunt arete to an uncomfortable ledge, then attack the crack that splits the overhang...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
12
Thrombosis
12m. Climb the groove on the right to a ledge then the left-hand narrow crack above. Hard for the grade though the gear is...
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
13
Rigor Mortis
14m. Climb Thrombosis to the ledge then continue up the right-hand crack with a finish up the arete if required. Not quite the...
1 user comment
 VS 4c
14
Paralysis
10m. From the gully, climb the shallow groove (poor gear) to a steep but juggy exit via the horizontal breaks.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

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    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

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    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

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    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

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