Les Campanilles

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
40 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

A day spent climbing at Campanilles will leave anyone who operates competently in the mid 6s and 7s feeling totally sated. Although it has a longer approach than other crags, you will be rewarded for your efforts with quality routes that are long, sustained and absorbing. The lines follow long cracks or rippling faces and each has its own individuality and will hold your attention to the very last move. A feature of the routes on the main wall is the scoop. Each encounter with this scoop is as puzzling and tricky as the last, but all are entertaining. Once you know it's coming you will be ready for it, but it can have a clever way of spitting you out. The routes are mainly concentrated in the 6b to 7a range and none feels particularly easy for its grade. Campanilles is a secluded west-facing crag and a visit there will probably be one of peace and quiet. The base of the crag is heavily tree covered which can offer respite from the hot afternoon sun. Now follow the approach to the letter and you will have a great day. Guidebook page 66.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
La ley del deseo
A fine route which takes the bulging buttress above the wall of the well maintained old dwelling.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
2
Marejadilla
30m. To see what this route looks like you've got to climb it. Unfortunately the chipper has been at work on the start but the...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
3
Amor vertical
The wall left of the crack. Lower-off at the roof.
 
1 Stars
6b
4
Zapatones
The newest addition to the crag has steep and strenuous climbing and is a great outing from the word go. It is given 7a+ in the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
5
Los elegidos
A series of long moves, rock-overs and balancy step-ups all leads to an encounter with the puzzling slopy scoop. Great...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
6
Anda-lui
Superb climbing up the striking crackline.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
7
Animal ferotge
All seems hunky-dory until you get to the scoop. Being at least 2m tall seems to be the answer here unless you veer off to the...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6b
8
Danone magarro
Great wall climbing on sharp holds, brings the scoop within reach. Exiting the scoop yet again provides the crux which may need...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
9
La bastonera
A few long moves which require some thought land you in the scoop where you will need to execute a cross-hand move to reach the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
10
No despistis
The appealing grey crack is superb.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
11
Mala folla
Only eligible for one star because it gets mighty close to the routes either side of it from time to time. Nevertheless, the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b+
12
The Brothers
A bulging start eases to vertical climbing, but still sustained.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
13
S'ha morio er serdo
The poor line to the right of the wide corner crack.
 6c+
14
Exta-si
 7c
15
Insi es logica
This route can't make up its mind whether to be a crack or a face. Just as you plan to do a bit of crack climbing, think again...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
16
Big-namba
Head up the wall to the right of the previous route.
 
1 Stars
7b
17
Visual persuasion
The obvious arete.
 
1 Stars
6c+
18
Entre bastidores
 6b+
19
Sipegotimato
The easiest route at the crag is well worth doing. The rock is good and the climbing sustained.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5c
20
Kagando melodias
Being only one of two 6b climbs at the crag you may choose this as a warm-up. Bear in mind that there is a good 6m section of...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
6b
  • Latest Comments

    For LA MUSSARA

    Madera de colleja
    "A long, high route with incredible view - really brings on the vertigo! Quite a ..." 21/Apr

    Montse
    "there are now other 2 possible 2nd pitch ruotes.. we did one direct up which fel..." 30/May

    Espantaocells
    "The route has been re-equipped and it keeps the same grade. The belay to Xell h..." 31/Mar top50

    Donantes de sangre
    "This is a good route. Theres not much to grab in the seam but there are enough ..." 19/Apr top50

    Fantasia rosa
    "For people with proper finger size, try to finger jaming with left hand instead ..." 19/Jun

    El fariseo
    "I thought the start up the arete was ok - so very pi**ed off to blow the onsight..." 12/Mar

    Todo tiene su fin
    "My first 7a+ onsight. It didn't seem as hard as some 7a's I've done. Still, I fe..." 05/Jun top50

    Astanax
    "A lovely long sustained 5+. Good warm up for the routes next to it!" 21/May

    El pez mas viejo del rio
    "Cool moves in the crux section. Bit awkward afterwards. Feels like 7b to me." 08/Apr

    Prisionero del deseo
    "Very nice route agian, as this whole area provides quite often. The crux is near..." 05/Apr top50

    Capitan Pedales
    "I agree with jose, they don't come much better at this grade!" 16/Dec

    El Canto del gallo
    "Bolts are a little spaced, It may have been re-bolted. Great climbing and some c..." 06/Dec top50

    Xenia
    "very stiff for 6b+, watch those tendons..." 18/Nov

    Xenia
    "at the beginning really hard for the grade..." 18/Apr

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