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10 mins

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Big pitches, a wonderful setting and stunning views all go together to make El Falco one of the best crags in the Sierra de Prades. Although the number of routes is quite small, all are of quality and are often 45m long. The climbing is very sustained on predominantly vertical or gently impending walls and you will definitely feel that you have put in a good day here if you clock up half a dozen pitches. Most of the routes are in the 6c to 7b+ categories but are quite reasonable for the grades, being sustained rather than intensely technical or bouldery. All the routes are well bolted but occasionally are a little run-out due to the length of the pitches and the necessity to reduce rope drag. Guidebook page 91.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Espavila fidel Short but with some technical slabby moves.	Technical	6b
2	De que vas? Head into the corner crack to make this an easy route.		6a+
3	Que tendre el nezro Has a loose flake. 1 user comment		6b+
4	El asesino es el sherif A very bouldery route.	Technical	7b
5	El troni		8a
6	Sofa i vidiu Athletic and pumpy climbing. 1 user comment	2 Stars Pumpy	7b+
7	Jinga Fine climbing up the orange wall. Never too technical but gives a good forearm pump. A steeper route than other Falco routes. 2 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	7b
8	Viros		7c+
9	Fandango The stunning open groove in the perfect grey rock gives a route of superb quality. 1 user comment	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
10	Tu pa los pollos moreno An extremely thin start (tricky first click - use a stick) gives way to some pleasant climbing before entering the final...	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7b
11	Pa ella y pa los guiris Top 50 The Smith Rock look-a-like leaning corner gives a magnificent pitch of escalating difficulty. Awkward and hard crux section... 4 user comments	3 Stars Strong	7a+
12	Animal A high extension to either route 11 or route 13.	2 Stars Pumpy	7a+
13	Trenca'm els pinyos A long route which is usually only done to the first lower-off. 1) 6c+. Technical climbing with intricate moves leads to some...	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a+
14	Bolongo	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	6c+
15	Melissa A bouldery start past the first two bolts with lovely continuous climbing above which will always have you literally on your... 4 user comments	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	6b+
16	Pere mata Top 50 Beautiful climbing in the lower half on some lovely crystalline pockets. As the pockets run out and you find yourself left with... 4 user comments	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	6b+
17	Arri ricardo 32m. The holds never seem too far away as you flow up the steeper lower section. Just as the anchors come into view watch out... 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	6c+
18	La miller de Top 50 35m. Great climbing from start to finish. Thin moves at the very top are a slight hiccup to the flow of the climbing, just as... 1 user comment	3 Stars Technical	6c
19	Haber pedido muerte Top 50 35m. A never-ending pitch. The first half up the rounded orange rock, to the intermediate lower-off, includes the crux. 12 user comments	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	6b+
20	Per tutatis Top 50 40m. A memorable pitch perhaps one of the best for the grade in the guidebook. Very long and totally satisfying. 7a to first... 4 user comments	3 Stars Technical	7a+
21	Borinot 45m to the top. A magnificent pitch of escalating difficulty. The first 20m to the intermediate lower-off gives a good 6b pitch... 3 user comments	3 Stars Technical	7a
22	Chanidangersch 45m. Another tremendous route giving very sustained and varied climbing although a little run-out in places. 2 user comments	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a+
23	El Cagat 40m. Another strength-sappingly long route with a hard finishing section. 2 user comments	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
24	Excalibur 30m. A technical route.	2 Stars Technical	7c
25	Falcon kreks Traditional climbing up the long corner. 1) 6c. Follow the corner to a belay. 2) 6c. Move out left onto the wall and up to a...		6c
26	El Sortida	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c+
27	Bon Noi	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	8a

El Falco

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