El Falco

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Downhill

Big pitches, a wonderful setting and stunning views all go together to make El Falco one of the best crags in the Sierra de Prades. Although the number of routes is quite small, all are of quality and are often 45m long. The climbing is very sustained on predominantly vertical or gently impending walls and you will definitely feel that you have put in a good day here if you clock up half a dozen pitches. Most of the routes are in the 6c to 7b+ categories but are quite reasonable for the grades, being sustained rather than intensely technical or bouldery. All the routes are well bolted but occasionally are a little run-out due to the length of the pitches and the necessity to reduce rope drag. Guidebook page 91.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Espavila fidel
Short but with some technical slabby moves.
 
Technical
6b
2
De que vas?
Head into the corner crack to make this an easy route.
 6a+
3
Que tendre el nezro
Has a loose flake.
1 user comment
 6b+
4
El asesino es el sherif
A very bouldery route.
 
Technical
7b
5
El troni
 8a
6
Sofa i vidiu
Athletic and pumpy climbing.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
7
Jinga
Fine climbing up the orange wall. Never too technical but gives a good forearm pump. A steeper route than other Falco routes.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
8
Viros
 7c+
9
Fandango
The stunning open groove in the perfect grey rock gives a route of superb quality.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
10
Tu pa los pollos moreno
An extremely thin start (tricky first click - use a stick) gives way to some pleasant climbing before entering the final...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b
11
Pa ella y pa los guiris Top 50
The Smith Rock look-a-like leaning corner gives a magnificent pitch of escalating difficulty. Awkward and hard crux section...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a+
12
Animal
A high extension to either route 11 or route 13.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
13
Trenca'm els pinyos
A long route which is usually only done to the first lower-off. 1) 6c+. Technical climbing with intricate moves leads to some...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
14
Bolongo
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c+
15
Melissa
A bouldery start past the first two bolts with lovely continuous climbing above which will always have you literally on your...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
16
Pere mata Top 50
Beautiful climbing in the lower half on some lovely crystalline pockets. As the pockets run out and you find yourself left with...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
17
Arri ricardo
32m. The holds never seem too far away as you flow up the steeper lower section. Just as the anchors come into view watch out...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
18
La miller de Top 50
35m. Great climbing from start to finish. Thin moves at the very top are a slight hiccup to the flow of the climbing, just as...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
19
Haber pedido muerte Top 50
35m. A never-ending pitch. The first half up the rounded orange rock, to the intermediate lower-off, includes the crux.
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
20
Per tutatis Top 50
40m. A memorable pitch perhaps one of the best for the grade in the guidebook. Very long and totally satisfying. 7a to first...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a+
21
Borinot
45m to the top. A magnificent pitch of escalating difficulty. The first 20m to the intermediate lower-off gives a good 6b pitch...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
22
Chanidangersch
45m. Another tremendous route giving very sustained and varied climbing although a little run-out in places.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
23
El Cagat
40m. Another strength-sappingly long route with a hard finishing section.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
24
Excalibur
30m. A technical route.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
25
Falcon kreks
Traditional climbing up the long corner. 1) 6c. Follow the corner to a belay. 2) 6c. Move out left onto the wall and up to a...
 6c
26
El Sortida
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
27
Bon Noi
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
  • Latest Comments

    For ARBOLI

    E.H Sukarra
    "very nice, I think it is an easy 6a, but still 6a. I would give it 2 stars too." 30/May

    Haber pedido muerte
    "If you use a 70m rope, weigh 70kg (154lb) and unclip all quickdraws you get 1.5m..." 25/Oct top50

    Pa ella y pa los guiris
    "A definitive boulder-problem-in-the-sky." 10/Dec top50

    Pa d'agla
    "Seems ok for 7b if you like crimps. Did it in cold conditions so maybe that make..." 02/Dec

    El Cagat
    "All 40 metres provide excellent climbing, solid finish makes this high in the gr..." 06/Jan

    Fandango
    "As good as it gets, a perfect line on perfect rock in a perfect setting and oh s..." 26/Oct

    Pere mata
    "Fantastic climbing the whole way up (once you figure out the start). The crux is..." 19/May top50

    Haber pedido muerte
    "A really good long route (longer than 35m - a 70m rope will not make it all the ..." 06/Apr top50

    Botifarra a seques
    "Nice sequence near the start." 05/Apr

    Pere mata
    "Thought this route was okay (2 stars) but not in the same class as some of it's ..." 14/Mar top50

    El robagallines
    "Looks impossible on first acquaintence and very easy to slip off. However, perse..." 16/Dec

    Espero
    "Awesome route with hard bit towards top (when you are nicely pumped). Best route..." 17/Apr top50

    Espero
    "polished??? no way... great route! 6b+ is okay." 16/Apr top50

    El handicapat
    "Hard start with a technical crux in the middle, too easy to be 6c" 12/Apr

    Mariline
    "Actually a fun route and might even deserve a star. The flakes are fine and the ..." 26/Mar

    Iosumite
    "Pleasant, but very different in style to most of the other climbs at the sector...." 17/Jan

    Allegro ma non tropo
    "2 cruxes - getting off the ground withoput the tree, and the middle of the wall...." 17/Dec top50

    Lolo flores
    "Nice tough moves that required some unlocking...move left for the monos then use..." 13/Nov

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