Twin Chimney's Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Balcony Buttress  |  Robin Hood's Cave >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

There is a good section of routes here. These include several short climbs in the bay on the right which have proved to be even more popular than before they were recorded!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Via Roof Route
Climb the tough thin crack into the cave (5c ?) pull up to the roof and swing right to access the easier wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
HVS 5b
2
Don't Bark, Bite
Climb the bold slab to the cave and then muscle along the cracks in the roof trending left to a finish up the hanging arete.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E3 5c
3
Crack and Cave
Climb the awkward wide crack to the right edge of the cave then move right to finish up the face. Well protected but hard work.
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HVD 4a
4
Bill and Ted's Lobotomy
A bold eliminate up the narrow face. Nice moves but the escape routes along the way are just too tempting to ignore.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
5
Twin Chimney's Buttress
The blunt arete has a bit of a bold start. Slippery moves gain the arete, then a detached block. Another tricky move gains the...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
6
Lucy's Delight
The narrow slab with a detour left towards the arete around the crucial central section.
 
Fluttery
VS 4b
7
Lucy's Joy
A direct version of Lucy's Delight which tackles the roof.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
E1 5b
8
Left Twin Chimney
The left-hand fork of the prominent Y-shaped chimney is mild.âÄà
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
D
9
Right Twin Chimney
Up the rib right of the chimney for 5m then the chimney. Finish up the wall behind. Starting direct is easier but can be green.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
10
Triplet
Meander up the airy widening wall between the chimneys.
 
Rounded
VS 4b
11
Bobsnob
The slab tucked behind the block is delicate and unprotected.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E1 5a
12
Dave's Little Route
Sprint up the left arete of the block, then step onto the wall behind and access the rib via a tricky bulge.
 S 4b
13
Little John's Step
A wanderer. Pull left through the initial overhang and climb to top of the block. Stride across on to the main face, move left...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4b
14
Little Slab
The little slab behind the block
 
Rounded
S 4a
15
Awl
The delicate left arete and the face on the left of the final nose.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD 3c
16
Bean
The narrow slab gives delicate moves just below the ledge that cuts across the buttress. Finish via a thin crack.
5 user comments
 
Rounded
VS 4c
17
Dun
The blunt left arete of the central groove gives good moves.âÄàFinish through the overhang as for the last route.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
18
Bee
A mild crack leads to an easier groove. A nice beginner's route.
 
1 Stars
VD
19
Four
Climb the right-hand face to a ledge. The upper arete is climbed via a couple of small overlaps.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

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