Wuthering

Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 mins

This small area has two major routes: the fierce but well-protected crack of The Asp and the bold and airy Boc No Buttress. There are several short routes in the bay to the left of The Asp which have not been described before. However they follow obvious lines and are all well marked. They were checked in 1993 and are described here in detail for the first time hence the rather modern sounding names. Guidebook page 166.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Asp
12m. A fine and tenuous finger crack. Gain the base of the crack from the left via the big pocket or (harder) from below....
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
2
Boc No Buttress
14m. An exciting climb with just about enough protection. Climb The Asp to the good runners then make a difficult hand traverse...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6a
3
Wuthering Top 50
20m. A devious but classic solution to this fine buttress. Climb the chimney (a high sling runner is naughty but normal) until...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
4
Robin Hood's Chockstone Chimney
18m. The deep chimney is an ancient classic, slick and awkward until the chockstone is passed. Protection is good throughout...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
5
Connelly's Variation
18m. An exposed finish up the left arete of the upper cleft.
 
Fluttery
HS 4a
6
Not Much Weak Stack Battered or What?
16m. The desperate undercut arete uses a side-runner in the gully though the rope usually snags on the lip of the overhang!
 
Technical
E4 6b
7
Withered Thing
16m. Climb the centre of the face, passing the overlap with difficulty. Side-runners are used at this grade.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E2 6a
8
Paucity
18m. A good and varied route. Climb an open groove to the left-hand side of a narrow roof (old jammed wires) step left and...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

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