Robin Hood's Cave

Adjacent Areas
< Twin Chimney's Buttress  |  Desperation Area >

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Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

Robin Hood’s Cave is hidden on the left, half-way up Robin Hood’s Cave Gully. This superb bivi site has been used by generations of climbers; please respect it if you stop here. There are many fine climbs in this arena across the grade spectrum with the combination of Robin Hood’s Cave Innominate and Harding’s Super Direct Finish being the best.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Robin Hood's Cave Traverse
An expedition from above Wuthering all the way to the finish of Robin Hood's Balcony Cave Direct. It is mostly ledge shuffling...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4b
2
The Asp
A fine and tenuous finger-crack. Gain the base of the crack from the left via the big pocket or (harder) from below. Perfect...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
3
Boc No Buttress
An exciting climb with just enough protection. Climb The Asp to the good runners then make a difficult hand-traverse (easier...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6a
4
Wuthering Top 50
A devious but classic solution to this fine buttress. Climb the chimney (a high sling runner is naughty but normal) until it is...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
5
Dithering Frights
Climbing straight up the face from the initial traverse is this gap filler. A visit to the Wuthering slot for runners is a bit...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
6
Robin Hood's Chockstone Chimney
The deep chimney is an ancient classic, slick and awkward until the chockstone is passed. Protection is good throughout and the...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
7
Connelly's Variation
From above the chockstone this is an exposed finish up the left arete. Traversing a couple of moves lower is Premier, HVS 5a.
 
Reachy
Fluttery
HS 4a
8
Not Much Weak Stack Battered or What?
The desperate undercut arete uses a side runner in the gully though the rope usually snags on the lip of the overhang!
 
Technical
E4 6b
9
Withered Thing
Climb the centre of the face, passing the overlap with difficulty. Side-runners are used at this grade.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E2 6a
10
Paucity
A fine and varied route. Climb an open groove to the left-hand side of a narrow roof, fiddle gear in here then step left and...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
HVS 5b
11
Robin Hood's Crack
Climb the crack in the groove to the roof, then move out right awkwardly to a ledge on the arete. From bigger ledge above...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVD 4a
12
Little John
The short arete by a tricky right-facing layback.
 VS 5a
13
Tea-leaf Crack
Climb the flake In the left wall of the gully to the ledges by the cave then step left to join and finish as for Robin Hood's...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVD 4a
14
Robin Hood's Cave Gully
The major rift that divides the buttress is awkward, gritty and polished. It provides access to Robin Hood's Cave.
 D
15
Last Ice Cream
Thread the hole then head out left to climb the short but steep arete that hangs over the gully.
 
Strong
E2 5c
16
Just One Cornetto
Thread the hole then pull rightwards onto the wall. Climb it steeply on flat, spaced holds. Often dirty.
 
Strong
E2 5c
17
Cave Gully Wall
From the boulders climb the tricky slab to the left twin cave - tough (E1 5b?) in all but perfect conditions and often avoided...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
HVS 5a
18
Robin Hood's Cave Innominate
The thin crack is reached by a delicate traverse from the left or direct (5aâÄä) by a hard mantel. It provides finger jams,...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
19
Harding's Super Direct Finish Top 50
From the balcony, step left and make a long reach round the roof from undercuts to jugs then sprint up the exposed final wall.
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
HVS 5a
20
Robin Hood's Cave Innominate/Harding's Finish
A combination of the previous two routes is one of the best HVS routes on the edge and earns three ticks in one go. Miss out...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

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