Rockfax | Databases | Cogullons

Adjacent Areas
< None | Les Gralles - Ella L'Aranja >

Sport

Lots of sun!

Up and Down

30 mins

Windy

'High' and 'quality' are the words that best describe the experience to be had at Mola Roquerola. Beautiful bulging white, pocketed waves of bullet limestone perched on a convenient raised ledge system running all the way along the base of the crag. The views are magnificent giving a wide view of the River Brugent and the villages of Farena, Capafonts and Mont-ral. The routes are predominantly power endurance affairs on sinker-pockets of all dimensions. It is the type of climbing where you have to keep an eye on the footholds as they tend to vanish when you look down. Hot tip - don't climb here if you are a bit on the tired side, or fancy an easy day. The climbs are demanding and require a lot of oomph. The best routes are in the 6c to 7c range, but a good day can be had for the grade 6 climber. All the routes are well bolted and have lower-offs. This is a sunny crag, but exposed to the elements. Guidebook page 156.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Route 1	1 Stars	5+
2	Route 2	1 Stars	6a
3	Route 3 Much trickier than you might imagine for the grade. Climb dribbles of conglomerate deposits on pocketed limestone.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	5+
4	Estrellita Castro More pockets on fairly steep ground.	1 Stars	5
5	B-52's A short series of pockets to anchors.		5+
6	Route 6 Sustained pocket-pulling leads up the wall to easier ground just below the anchors.	2 Stars Pumpy	6b
7	Route 7 A difficult and strenuous start leads to a good jug at the change in angle. Nice pocketed wall climbing remains.	2 Stars Pumpy	6a+
8	Route 8 From the large jug on route 7, sustained climbing leads left in a magnificent position.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	6b
9	Hermes trimegisto A very mean-looking crack which will probably suck you in and have a good go at spitting you right out.	1 Stars Strong Pumpy	7a
10	Foc entre les cames	1 Stars	??
11	Roella blanca A technical and sequential start leads over the bulge and continues up the superb arm-burning leaning white wall. A real...	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c
12	Kin samale Very attractive climbing leading up the ever-impending wall. Tempting.	2 Stars Pumpy	7c
13	Tonica per tutti A real stunner. See photo inside back cover.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
14	Situaditis Good stonking pockets lead all the way to the anchors. Pity it isn't a wee bit longer.	2 Stars Pumpy	6b
15	Route 17 Clean climbing up the obvious corner.	1 Stars Pumpy	5+
16	Pasion fruite Very nice climbing taking the prominent rounded arete.	2 Stars Pumpy	6a+
17	Route 19 Diverts from Pasion fruite into left-hand corner.	1 Stars Pumpy	6a
18	Route 20 A brutal and thuggish direct start to route 19.	Strong	7a
19	Route 21 A nice looking line which turns out to be very bizarre.	1 Stars Technical	7a+
20	Route 22	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
21	The Door	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
22	Route 24	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c+
23	Route 25	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c
24	La socarrimada A steep and powerful start.	2 Stars Strong	7c+
25	Nefertiti A tremendous line giving demanding climbing from the start to the very last move. High in the grade 1 user comment	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	6c
26	Txop suey de poll The big impressive arete left of the prominent groove.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	7a+
27	Curri frai rais viz vegeteibols Break out right from the arete.	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	7b+
28	Penelope Good climbing on good rock. A touch fluttery if you are not tempted to escape to the left.	1 Stars Technical Fluttery	6c
29	Umeboshi	1 Stars Technical	6c+
30	Ramirurromu Technical and thin wall climbing.	1 Stars Technical	7a
31	Sisters falo Start by bridging up the wide crack leading to the large ledge. Sustained climbing on good pockets and side-pulls up the crack...	2 Stars Pumpy	6b+
32	De negro saten Continue moving leftwards from Sisters falo, and head up the leaning wall on many small holds.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	7b
33	Testa di caccio Up the black streak.	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c
34	Tirant lo blanc	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	??
35	Mirandolina la perfida	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	8b
36	Kabernicola Very interesting climbing leads you away from the ancient fireplace of Mas Roquerola. Moving left, steady climbing breaches the...	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	6a+
37	Bolongo hasta la muerte	Strong	7b
38	Familiar monster Up the black streak.	Strong Pumpy	7a
39	Paella mixta	Strong Pumpy	7c
40	Desperta ferro		??
41	Cagada rock Strenuous brilliant pocket pulling up the black streak.	3 Stars Strong	7b
42	Matute Start on the pile of stones, grab the first obvious holds and try and take your feet off the starting blocks. Come back down...	3 Stars Strong	7a
43	Penitenciagite If you think Bondage is going to require power, then this one will need mega, mega power.	1 Stars Strong	7c+
44	Bondage A short and very bulging route which gives some intense, power-packed climbing.	1 Stars Strong	7b
45	Mandinga bolinga A difficult route which is hard to read on the crux.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a
46	Mandinga bolinga variant A harder variant climbing straight up to the anchors at the 4th bolt.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
47	La minga dominga Lots and lots of pockets to choose from, but don't spend too long making a decision. There is a bolt to clip right in the...	2 Stars Crimpy	6c+
48	La pinga ferminga	1 Stars	6a
49	Griego Much trickier and sustained than you might think.	1 Stars Pumpy	6a+
50	Frances A good eliminate starting on pockets and finishing with a reach for the chains.	1 Stars Pumpy	6a+
51	Birmano A direct start to Thailandes.	1 Stars	6a
52	Thailandes Good climbing moving rightwards to the corner.	1 Stars	6a
53	Kamasutra An airy arete gives excellent climbing. Have you got time to admire the view? 1 user comment	3 Stars Pumpy	7b+
54	Route 57		6a
55	Route 58		6a+

Mola Roquerola

Latest Comments