Mola Roquerola

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Les Gralles - Ella L'Aranja >

Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
30 mins

'High' and 'quality' are the words that best describe the experience to be had at Mola Roquerola. Beautiful bulging white, pocketed waves of bullet limestone perched on a convenient raised ledge system running all the way along the base of the crag. The views are magnificent giving a wide view of the River Brugent and the villages of Farena, Capafonts and Mont-ral. The routes are predominantly power endurance affairs on sinker-pockets of all dimensions. It is the type of climbing where you have to keep an eye on the footholds as they tend to vanish when you look down. Hot tip - don't climb here if you are a bit on the tired side, or fancy an easy day. The climbs are demanding and require a lot of oomph. The best routes are in the 6c to 7c range, but a good day can be had for the grade 6 climber. All the routes are well bolted and have lower-offs. This is a sunny crag, but exposed to the elements. Guidebook page 156.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Route 1
 
1 Stars
5+
2
Route 2
 
1 Stars
6a
3
Route 3
Much trickier than you might imagine for the grade. Climb dribbles of conglomerate deposits on pocketed limestone.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
5+
4
Estrellita Castro
More pockets on fairly steep ground.
 
1 Stars
5
5
B-52's
A short series of pockets to anchors.
 5+
6
Route 6
Sustained pocket-pulling leads up the wall to easier ground just below the anchors.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
7
Route 7
A difficult and strenuous start leads to a good jug at the change in angle. Nice pocketed wall climbing remains.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
8
Route 8
From the large jug on route 7, sustained climbing leads left in a magnificent position.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b
9
Hermes trimegisto
A very mean-looking crack which will probably suck you in and have a good go at spitting you right out.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
10
Foc entre les cames
 
1 Stars
??
11
Roella blanca
A technical and sequential start leads over the bulge and continues up the superb arm-burning leaning white wall. A real...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
12
Kin samale
Very attractive climbing leading up the ever-impending wall. Tempting.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
13
Tonica per tutti
A real stunner. See photo inside back cover.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
14
Situaditis
Good stonking pockets lead all the way to the anchors. Pity it isn't a wee bit longer.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
15
Route 17
Clean climbing up the obvious corner.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5+
16
Pasion fruite
Very nice climbing taking the prominent rounded arete.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
17
Route 19
Diverts from Pasion fruite into left-hand corner.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a
18
Route 20
A brutal and thuggish direct start to route 19.
 
Strong
7a
19
Route 21
A nice looking line which turns out to be very bizarre.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
20
Route 22
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
21
The Door
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
22
Route 24
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
23
Route 25
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
24
La socarrimada
A steep and powerful start.
 
2 Stars
Strong
7c+
25
Nefertiti
A tremendous line giving demanding climbing from the start to the very last move. High in the grade
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6c
26
Txop suey de poll
The big impressive arete left of the prominent groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
27
Curri frai rais viz vegeteibols
Break out right from the arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
28
Penelope
Good climbing on good rock. A touch fluttery if you are not tempted to escape to the left.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
6c
29
Umeboshi
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
30
Ramirurromu
Technical and thin wall climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
31
Sisters falo
Start by bridging up the wide crack leading to the large ledge. Sustained climbing on good pockets and side-pulls up the crack...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
32
De negro saten
Continue moving leftwards from Sisters falo, and head up the leaning wall on many small holds.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
33
Testa di caccio
Up the black streak.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
34
Tirant lo blanc
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
??
35
Mirandolina la perfida
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
36
Kabernicola
Very interesting climbing leads you away from the ancient fireplace of Mas Roquerola. Moving left, steady climbing breaches the...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6a+
37
Bolongo hasta la muerte
 
Strong
7b
38
Familiar monster
Up the black streak.
 
Strong
Pumpy
7a
39
Paella mixta
 
Strong
Pumpy
7c
40
Desperta ferro
 ??
41
Cagada rock
Strenuous brilliant pocket pulling up the black streak.
 
3 Stars
Strong
7b
42
Matute
Start on the pile of stones, grab the first obvious holds and try and take your feet off the starting blocks. Come back down...
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a
43
Penitenciagite
If you think Bondage is going to require power, then this one will need mega, mega power.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c+
44
Bondage
A short and very bulging route which gives some intense, power-packed climbing.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b
45
Mandinga bolinga
A difficult route which is hard to read on the crux.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
46
Mandinga bolinga variant
A harder variant climbing straight up to the anchors at the 4th bolt.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
47
La minga dominga
Lots and lots of pockets to choose from, but don't spend too long making a decision. There is a bolt to clip right in the...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
48
La pinga ferminga
 
1 Stars
6a
49
Griego
Much trickier and sustained than you might think.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
50
Frances
A good eliminate starting on pockets and finishing with a reach for the chains.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
51
Birmano
A direct start to Thailandes.
 
1 Stars
6a
52
Thailandes
Good climbing moving rightwards to the corner.
 
1 Stars
6a
53
Kamasutra
An airy arete gives excellent climbing. Have you got time to admire the view?
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
54
Route 57
 6a
55
Route 58
 6a+
  • Latest Comments

    For COGULLONS

    Route 10
    "Hard to clean the gear if you go right to the lower off. you can go left on jugs..." 18/Apr

    Nefertiti
    "Absolutely desperate for 6c!" 01/Nov

    Kamasutra
    "The voting is currently showing 1 vote for 7c. This is in fact a remnant from wh..." 19/Mar

    Txapat per defuncio
    "Ooops... I meant the adjacent two routes!" 13/Jul

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