Desperation Area

Adjacent Areas
< Robin Hood's Cave  |  Inverted V >

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Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

This fine blank wall has two fingery outings. Desperation is hard and popular, Pacific Ocean Wall is desperate and neglected. The larger buttress to the left has the classic of Cave Arete and the rift of Robin Hood's Balcony Cave Direct.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Carpe Diem
Climb the wall to a block and continue left to below the roof. Reach right for a pocket then make crux moves past the bulge.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E6 6c
2
Cave Eliminate
Full on at the grade! A boulder problem start V3 6A+ up a leaning rib leads to a ledge at 5m (or traverse from the left...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E2 6a
3
Cave Arete
Photogenic. The ledge on the arete is gained from the right awkwardly then make long reaches (5b for the short) to gain better...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
4
Robin Hood's Balcony Cave Direct
The imposing chimney is climbed on (very) polished holds to reach the balcony and a stance. Often green. Escape right across...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
5
Broken Arrow
The wide crack that hangs over the chimney is requires an uphill udge to access though it eases once past the first overhang.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E1 5b
6
Constipation
A stiff problem. Climb the face just right of the arete (poor cam) using tiny holds away on the right and a scary slap for the...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
7
Pacific Ocean Wall
14m. Start as for Constipation then move out right and climb the wall by sustained hard moves on tiny holds. Pre-placed...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E5 6b
8
Pacific Ocean Wall Direct
Climb straight up the wall by sustained hard moves on tiny holds - with only a marginal cam for protection. Traditionally done...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E7 6b
9
Desperation
The lower section of the smooth wall is climbed via a problem start at V3 6A+ using a cruel finger-jam (desperate for short...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
E1 6a
10
Robin Hood's Staircase Direct
The short-lived thin crack leading into the easier shallow groove. Not much gear. Finish easily or head along......
 
Fluttery
HS 4b
11
Rubber Band
Follow either of the Robin Hood's Staircase starts until just below the cliff top then jam left along the horizontal break to a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
12
Robin Hood's Staircase
The weakness running diagonally leftwards up the wall is relatively straightforward but unprotected. Used as a way down by the...
3 user comments
 
Fluttery
VD
13
Kenneth
Mantel up the wall on poor holds.
 
Rounded
VS 4b
14
Stringer
The thin crack left of the corner to a tough direct finish. Escaping left or grovelling under the boulder lower the grade and...
 
Technical
Rounded
HS 4c
15
Stringer Chimney
The green chimney in the back of the angle to an escape left or a tight exit rightwards under the boulder .
 VD
16
Titbit
This tackles the hand-crack in the side-wall on solid jams and leads an often gritty exit.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
17
Muesli
The blunt arete is awkward start and then eases.
4 user comments
 HS 4c
18
Cornflakes
The face right of the arete has a tricky start.
7 user comments
 
Technical
VS 5a
19
Boot Crack
The polished boot-wide crack that splits the centre of the short wall is an awkward little customer.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVD
20
Soft Shoe
Climb the centre of the wall using a shallow flake crack.
4 user comments
 HS
21
Soft Shoe Arete
If your blinkers are adjusted correctly you can climb the right arete without using too many holds on the routes to either...
1 user comment
 HS
22
Shuffle
The wide crack above the base of the descent route.
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

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