Desperation Area

Adjacent Areas
< Robin Hood's Cave  |  Inverted V >

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Left of Inverted V is a series of short walls with a some easier climbs. Left again things become more impressive and the great classics of Desperation and Cave Arete await the enthusiast.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Carpe Diem
Climb the wall to a block and continue left to below the roof. Reach right for a pocket then make crux moves past the bulge.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
2
Cave Eliminate
Full on at the grade! A boulder problem start f6A+ up a leaning rib leads to a ledge at 5m (or traverse from the left reducing...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
3
Cave Arete
Photogenic. The ledge on the arete is gained awkwardly from the right, then make long reaches (5b for the short) to gain better...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
4
Robin Hood's Balcony Cave Direct
The imposing chimney is climbed on (very) polished holds to reach the balcony and a stance. Often green. Escape right across...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
5
Broken Arrow
The wide crack that hangs over the chimney requires an uphill udge to access, though it eases once past the first overhang.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E1
6
Constipation
A stiff problem. Climb the face just right of the arete (poor cam) using tiny holds away on the right and a scary slap for the...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
7
Pacific Ocean Wall
14m. Start as for Constipation then move out right and climb the wall by sustained hard moves on tiny holds. Pre-placed...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E5 6b
8
Pacific Ocean Wall Direct
Climb straight up the wall by sustained hard moves on tiny holds - with only a marginal cam for protection. Traditionally done...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E7
9
Desperation
The lower section of the smooth wall is climbed via a problem start at f6A+ using a cruel finger-jam (desperate for short...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E1
10
Robin Hood's Staircase Direct
The short-lived thin crack leading into the easier shallow groove. Not much gear. Finish easily or head along the next route.
 HS
11
Rubber Band
Follow either of the Robin Hood's Staircase starts until just below the cliff top then jam left along the horizontal break to a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
12
Robin Hood's Staircase
The weakness running diagonally leftwards up the wall is relatively straightforward but unprotected. Used as a way down by the...
3 user comments
 VD
13
Kenneth
Mantel up the wall on poor holds.
1 user comment
 VS
14
Stringer
The thin crack left of the corner to a tough direct finish. Escaping left or grovelling under the boulder will lower the grade...
1 user comment
 
Technical
HS
15
Stringer Chimney
The green chimney in the back of the angle to an escape left or a tight exit rightwards under the boulder.
 VD
16
Titbit
This tackles the hand-crack in the side-wall on solid jams and leads to an often-gritty exit.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
17
Muesli
The blunt arete is awkward to start and then eases.
4 user comments
 HS
18
Cornflakes
The face right of the arete has a tricky start.
7 user comments
 
Technical
VS
19
Boot Crack
The polished boot-wide crack that splits the centre of the short wall is an awkward little customer.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVD
20
Soft Shoe
Climb the centre of the wall using a shallow flake-crack.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
21
Soft Shoe Arete
If your blinkers are adjusted correctly you can climb the right arete without using too many holds on the routes to either...
2 user comments
 HS
22
Shuffle
The wide crack above the base of the descent route.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD