Desperation

Adjacent Areas
< Robin Hood's Cave Area  |  Ellis's Eliminate >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

This fine blank wall has two fingery outings. Desperation is hard and popular, Pacific Ocean Wall is desperate and neglected. The larger buttress to the left has the classic of Cave Arete and the rift of Robin Hood's Balcony Cave Direct.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Carpe Diem
16m. Climb the wall to an odd block and continue leftwards to holds under the roof. Reach back right for a pocket on the lip...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E6 6c
2
Cave Eliminate
16m. A boulder problem start (V3) up a leaning rib leads to a good ledge at 5m (this can be avoided by a traverse from the left...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E2 6a
3
Cave Arete
16m. A photogenic outing. The first ledge on the arete is accessed from the right awkwardly then make long reaches (5b for the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
4
Robin Hood's Balcony Cave Direct
16m. The imposing chimney is climbed on polished holds to reach the balcony and a stance. Escape right across the top of the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
5
Broken Arrow
6m. The wide crack that hangs over the chimney is awkward to access though it eases once past the first large overhang.
2 user comments
 
Strong
E1 5b
6
Constipation
14m. A stiff problem requiring some effort. Climb the face just right of the arete (poor Friend 1.5) using tiny holds away on...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
7
Pacific Ocean Wall
14m. Start as for Constipation then move out right and climb the wall by sustained hard moves on tiny holds. Pre-placed...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E5 6b
8
Desperation
12m. The lower section of the smooth wall is climbed via a problem start on the right (6a for short climbers). Swing left then...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
9
Robin Hood's Staircase Direct
10m. The short-lived thin crack leading into a shallow groove. Finish easily or head along......
 HS 4b
10
Rubber Band
20m. Follow either of the Robin Hood's Staircase starts until just below the cliff top then traverse left along the prominent...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
11
Robin Hood's Staircase
10m. The weakness running diagonally leftwards up the wall is relatively straightforward but unprotected. Much used as a way...
3 user comments
 
Fluttery
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

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