Grande Grotta

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Sport
Evening sun
15 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

One of the show-piece crags of Kalymnos and a must-visit destination for any climber that is up to the challenges on offer here. Generally the climbs are massively steep but on great holds, perfect for those who have spent their time at the climbing wall.
Conditions The crag faces west and offers shade until early afternoon - it can got hot here in the evenings and the sunsets are always spectacular. The cave is sheltered from the wind and stays dry in rain though it can be very soapy when the humidity is high. The tufas seep after rain.
Approach - Park by or opposite the Mermaid Statue - almost opposite the Hotel Philoxena. The track starts here and runs up to a gate then a prominent olive tree before heading out left and toiling up the scree path to the welcoming shade and the huge jutting buttress just left of Grande Grotta.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Massalia
1) 6b, 2) 5c, 3) 5c, 4) 4c. A fine and long climb that doesn't see many ascents - the bolting is old skool! Start at the toe of...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
6b
2
Aegialis Top 50
A super classic, climbing to the right of the big rounded arete, never desperate and never ending - 30m of pumpdom with...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
3
Zawinul Syndicate
Another meg-outing with hard moves linking good rest. The rather spicey bolting keeps the crowds away.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
4
Aphrodite
A tought start (small fingers help - V4 maybe) leads to a short-lived and juggy sprint.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
5
DNA Top 50
Popular but polished and a bit short if the truth be told! Milk the rests or you may well run out of steam.
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
6
Ivi Top 50
A popular little route that loops out right then back left. Plenty of knee-bar rests for those who need them.
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
7
Priapos
A super climb and a s stiff proposition that links a series of stalactite 'dongs' with hard moves. Save a bit for the finish...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
8
Fun de Chichunne
A superb and a popular first 8a - and not because it is an 'easy' one. Okay because it is an easy one - but it does goes on a...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
9
Elefantenhimmel
The 'elephant heaven' roofs above are much better than the approach pitch, weave between the dangling legs and save a bit for...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a
10
Trela Top 50
A major classic that weaves through the tufa forest and which is still brilliant despite the loss of the huge stal that used to...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
11
Monahiki Elia Top 50
A popular (and polished) classic introduction to the art of tufa climbing. Milk the rests, just because you can.
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
12
Taz
A cracker - aim for the hanging groove between the tufas and don't stray too far from the bolt line.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
13
Zenith
A major outing following the smooth wall right of the main arete and just left of the Grande Grotta - 40m.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b+
14
Kopalization
An extension to Aegialis doubles the length and ups the grade several notches. Doesn't get done much. There is an 'extra'...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
15
DNA extension
A long hard extension to DNA that packs a punch and has a bold finale. Neglected.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
8a+
16
Ivi Ole
A short hard direct on Ivi passing the obvious big round pocket and featuring a dyno or two.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b+
17
Super Priapos
So Priapos wasn't 'hard' enough for you? 55m and about 25 clips - take a few longer ones too.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
18
Happy Girlfriend
An easier route in the cave - it isn't brilliant but it is worth a quick look. It features a slab and short tufa tussle.
 
2 Stars
5c
19
Elefantenhimmel Start
An indifferent pitch up rather poor rock.
 
1 Stars
5a
20
Punto Caramelo
A tough left-trending line following the edge of the overhangs.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
21
Tufantastic
A long left-trending stamina-fest.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
22
Kalypige
A good and popular line to the right of the long black tufa systems - sustained especially in the upper half.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
  • Latest Comments

    For GRANDE GROTTA AREA

    Ivi
    "harder than dna for sure" 12/Dec top50

    Priapos
    "I think most people do this as a "7c" to the first lower off, and the ..." 26/Apr

    Neptun kl
    "Now re-bolted and much better for it. Still quite tough though for 6c. Is it wor..." 19/Oct

    Joggel &amp; Toggel
    "For me the extension 2 was one of the best routes on island. I found it quite ha..." 11/Sep

    Aphrodite
    "graded 7a+ in the guide, agree with that; the crux its quite polished" 15/Jan

    Taz
    "There are easier 6c's in Kaly for sure... Nice technical second half." 01/Dec

    Steinpilz
    "superb wallclimb, features all from kalymnian tufas to technical climbing on sma..." 18/Oct

    Kalypige
    "Another superb pitch, long and sustained but never desperate." 09/Jun

    Priapos
    "Almost certainly the best stalactite 7c in the world (up to the first belay) tho..." 02/Jun

    Monahiki Elia
    "Great introduction to tufa climbing. Loooved it!" 27/Nov top50

    Uncle Ernie
    "If you ignore the first few metres of polish the rest of the route is really goo..." 10/Oct

    Uncle Ernie
    "should be 3 stars. doesn't feel hard enough for 6b+." 28/Sep

    Mind Boggle
    "another superb route in this sector. good variety: dyno to kick things off, tufa..." 27/Sep

    Trela
    "Well it WAS all of the above until the large tufa snapped off very recently! Ful..." 27/Jun top50

    Aegialis
    "Top 5." 03/Jun top50

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