Inverted V

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

Bishop’s Route, Inverted V and Robin Hood’s Right-hand Buttress Direct are a trio of superb outings from the 1920s. The latter two are as popular as any routes on the cliff, whilst the first is a bit of a neglected gem. All the other routes hereabouts are well worth doing - glorious grit at its very best.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Before Dunne
Monkey onto the hanging arete using a creaky jug.
 
Strong
Loose
HVS 5c
2
Grovel, you don't know the meaning of the Word
Swim into and out of the black hanging cleft. Amusing stuff.
 
Graunchy
HS 5a
3
Madhouse
The hanging rib on pockets to a ledge on the right. Step back left and balance up the rounded arete to a final a long reach.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Fluttery
E4 6a
4
Twin Cracks
Climb the left-hand of a pair of cracks throughout. The awkward start is often avoid by the first five metres of the next...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
5
Right Twin Crack
Follow the right-hand crack. It gives good finger-jamming and all the difficulties are well protected. A good 1st VS, solid but...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4c
6
Ellis's Eliminate
A fair test of how the jamming is coming on! Traverse the horizontal break on solid lockers (or by a gripping dangle) out to...
19 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
7
Good Friday
Start along Ellis's Eliminate but make a bit of a stretch and difficult pull on poor holds followed by a precarious high step...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
HVS 5b
8
Bob's Jolly Jape
Climb the blunt rib then head up and right by long reaches between poor holds to the sanctuary of Ellis's Eliminate. Choose a...
 
Reachy
Fluttery
E4 6a
9
Inverted V
A polished crack (4c?) and deep groove lead to the niche under overhang - The Birdcage. Traverse right to the exposed crack...
34 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4b
10
Retroversion
Head up Inverted V for 5m then traverse right along the lowest break and make unlikely looking pulls up the bulging arete. Once...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
HVS 5a
11
Robin Hood's Right-hand Buttress Direct Top 50
A great route up the wide crack splitting the centre of the face. Low in the grade but quite intimidating. Climb to the large...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Graunchy
HS 4a
12
Thunder Road
A fierce direct start to Cold Turkey through the wide roof.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Rounded
E6 6b
13
Cold Turkey
Climb the flake in the left rib of Straight Crack, step and climb the fine face direct. Rounded and with less gear than you...
17 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 5a
14
Straight Crack
The central line. Climb the wide chimney to the roof and shuffle left. Easier climbing leads past the overhang to the final...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
15
Robin Hood Zig-zag
A wanderer. Start up the chimney and exit awkwardly right to a good ledge, and possible stance. Continue up the crack left of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
16
Spring into Action
Bridge the wide chimney until you can swing onto the right arete. Continue to the ledge then climb the centre of the steep...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5b
17
The Actress
Tackle the centre of the overhang under Bishop's Route.
 
Strong
E2 5c
18
Bishop's Route
An engaging romp. From the base of Zig-zag Flake Crack climb the left-leaning crack to a ledge. Continue up the corner to a...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
S 4a
19
Zagrete
A bit aimless but pleasant and with only one tricky move. Follow Bishop's Route to the ledge then step out right and climb the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
20
Zig-zag Flake Crack
The tall straight flake is wide, awkward and slippery but cams in the horizontal breaks make it safe enough. Swarm up the flake...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4b
21
Coconut Ice
A route with a good lower section but then it fizzles out. Climb the wall via couple of long reaches (big cam to the left) to...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E2 5b
22
Ice Boat
AâÄàpopular little eliminate with a harsh start. From a short crack climb the wall to The Little Flake Crack. Trend right up...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
E1 5c
23
The Little Flake Crack
Reach the hanging flake from the chimney by a hard traverse (footholds scoured by nailed boots aeons ago) then layback to easy...
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
24
Flake Chimney
The chimney in the left side of the bay can be climbed inside or outside of the chockstones. The subterranean route is more...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVD
25
Hybrid
Climb the rounded pillar between the two chimneys at the back of the bay to its top. Then tackle the capping overhang with...
1 user comment
 
Strong
Rounded
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

    Inverted V
    "led, forgot how to jam, so pulled up on ledges, great! top L exit." 28/Dec

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