Kasteli - Morning Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Dolphin Bay  |  Kasteli - Main Wall >

Sport
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Downhill
Windy

Facing the approach path is this diagonal wall with a few route. It gets morning sun and shade for the rest of the day. On the south side of the Main Wall at Kasteli, facing the mainland, is a steep cave which has three short hard routes. Approach by continuing by scrambling up left from the Morning Wall or go straight to it.
Approach - Just past 'Kasteli Bend' there is parking on the left - a rough track leads down towards the rocky promontory with its ancient castle on top. Keep right for the climbing - five minutes.
Conditions - The first buttress you come to on the headland is the side wall of Kasteli Main, home to a few routes. There is nothing particularly outstanding here - the wall gets some morning sun but gives shade at all other times.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
A Kapella
Only 8m long - like the others here.
1 user comment
 
Strong
7b
2
Bambola blue
Three bolts, very steep and said to be soft!
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b
3
Krotdebiki
Bolt protected bouldering - sharp.
2 user comments
 
Strong
7a+
4
Tsarouhis
The steep grey wall has hard move and sharp holds.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
5
Gyzis
The steep bridging groove is quite awkward and sharp too.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
5b
6
Gikas
An easier line - pleasant and on good rock.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
4c
7
Pampachoum
A balancy start and a few steep pulls on jugs at the end are the highlights.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
6a+
8
Pillar of the Sea Top 50
The original classic is polished now. Very hard if conditions are soapy but at least the bolts are close together.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
6a+
9
Merci Brothers
A fine climb up to the slab which is tricky to access, and the steep juggy groove above. Hard when conditions are greasy.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
10
Shy Talk
A tough slab early one with a pathetic chipped hold then easier but steeper moves. High in the grade.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
11
Get a Grip
An easy ramp leads to a couple of decent steep moves.
 
1 Stars
5c
  • Latest Comments

    For KASTELI AREA

    Damokles
    "Stay left of the bolts on the upper wall to claim the 6a." 10/Nov

    Pampachoum
    "Crux comes in the form of a few steep pulls on jugs at the end, but it's really ..." 08/Nov

    Sisyphus
    "Much easier than grade 5, more like 3+, but nice climbing none-the-less." 22/Oct

    A Kapella
    "Crux low down. Insitu wall a bit of a concern." 19/Jul

    Scarabeus
    "Enjoyable though the rock is rather sharp in places; in parts almost as if you a..." 27/May

    Gefahrliche Brandung
    "Really pleasant climbing up the arete" 01/Nov

    Bambola blue
    "Some of the insitu-quickdraws do not open, so take some with you! Jug pulling on..." 22/Oct

    Ruheloser Pirat
    "A hard start and excellent wall climbing above." 21/Oct

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