Kasteli - Main Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Evening sun
5 mins
Downhill
Windy

Kasteli is popular little crag with a good set of easier routes and plenty of shade until quite late in the day. It is the most distant of the crags that are usually walked to from Masouri - in about 30 minutes.
Approach - Just past 'Kasteli Bend' there is parking on the left - a rough track leads down towards the rocky promontory with its ancient castle on top. Keep right for the climbing - five minutes.
Conditions - The main section of wall and slab gets some afternoon and evening sun but gives shade at all other times. There often a breeze here, cooling in the summer and chilling in the winter. The crag dries quickly.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Männertor
A bridging groove leads to a wide leaning and tough crack. A bit ugly if the truth be told.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
6a+
2
Mikros Prigipas
A tough lower wall leads to a ramp, up this to the headwall which is gained from the right. Disjointed but with a lot of decent...
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
3
Naedl kussen
An unlikely looking line, with a steep start.
 
1 Stars
6a
4
Ruheloser Pirat
A tricky start leads to excellent sustained climbing above. One of the best here.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
5
Gefahrliche Brandung
The crucial bulge requires quick thinking. Sharp.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a
6
Piccolo Diavolo
Absorbing climbing on small sharp holds.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
6a
7
Hocla
Pleasant easy climbing in the first half leads to some neat moves on sharp chicken-heads on the upper wall. Well-bolted.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a
8
Gruselino
Weave between the two large loose flakes to access the better upper wall. High in the grade.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Loose
5c
9
Gonegli kiz (Sunshine girl)
Steep and sharp though not as bad as it appears! Fingery wall climbing on chicken-heads with spaced bolts.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
5c
10
Scarabeus
Aim for the bubbly black crack which is climbed on good holds to one tricky move near the top.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
5b
11
Damokles
A bit of an eliminate. Easy past the sword to the third clip, then traverse left and attack the steeper wall above on sharp...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
12
Aaolaa
A pleasant left-trending line on good holds.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5a
13
Yahurti me Meli
Start up the edge of the slab and follow good holds up the gradually-steepening wall with some interesting chicken-heads.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
4c
14
Psomi ke Elies
It is quite easy to get confused by the second bolt - go left from the ledge by the first bolt.
 
1 Stars
4c
15
Sisyphus
Nice sustained climbing straight up from the ledge following the right-hand glue-in bolts.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
5a
16
Kokkinidis Top 50
Maybe the best grade 4 at Kasteli. Good holds but with a tricky move off the big ledge. Beware a big loose flake near the top.
 
2 Stars
4c
17
Mathilde Top 50
A long pitch, a 60m rope is needed to get back down.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
4b
18
Bricounet Top 50
A long climb with a tricky start then a long absorbing slab to the high cave. 12 clips needed.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
4c
19
Yia Ton Kiriakos
A long and easy one. Some spaced bolts.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
3+
20
Ligo Akoma
Scrappy climbing with a steep juggy start, a short tricky wall (5? - avoidable on the left) and a better finish.
1 user comment
 4c
21
Nadelkissen
Seriously unbalanced! A nasty hard start leads to rambling then join Mikros Prigipas.
 
Technical
6a
22
Rewithia
Fills a gap that didn't really need filling - poor.
 
1 Stars
Loose
5b
23
Geckos Home
Loose early on but better above.
 
1 Stars
Loose
5c
24
Captain Adonis
The marginally less worthwhile line just right.
 
2 Stars
5a
25
A Tight Squeeze
Nice enough, though well named in places which is a pity.
 
1 Stars
4b
  • Latest Comments

    For KASTELI AREA

    Damokles
    "Stay left of the bolts on the upper wall to claim the 6a." 10/Nov

    Pampachoum
    "Crux comes in the form of a few steep pulls on jugs at the end, but it's really ..." 08/Nov

    Sisyphus
    "Much easier than grade 5, more like 3+, but nice climbing none-the-less." 22/Oct

    A Kapella
    "Crux low down. Insitu wall a bit of a concern." 19/Jul

    Scarabeus
    "Enjoyable though the rock is rather sharp in places; in parts almost as if you a..." 27/May

    Gefahrliche Brandung
    "Really pleasant climbing up the arete" 01/Nov

    Bambola blue
    "Some of the insitu-quickdraws do not open, so take some with you! Jug pulling on..." 22/Oct

    Ruheloser Pirat
    "A hard start and excellent wall climbing above." 21/Oct

    Pillar of the Sea
    "Overbolted and excellent but to my mind too tricky for a first 6a lead." 21/Oct top50

    Krotdebiki
    "This is 7b, as in the local guide" 19/Oct

    Pillar of the Sea
    "More bolts per meter than any other route on the island that I could see (as opp..." 11/Oct top50

    Pillar of the Sea
    "rebolted and now very friendly" 11/Apr top50

    Tsarouhis
    "sharp rocks, hard on fingers" 17/Sep

    Hocla
    "quality route - well worth it" 17/Sep

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