Coeur d'Armeos

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A hanging bowl which is approached via scramble up a fixed rope - take care not to dislodge and loose rock. The routes start from fixed belays in the base of the bowl.
Conditions The crag faces west and offers shade until early afternoon - a little longer on the right hand side. It can got hot here in the evenings. The routes dry quickly after rain and the recessed nature of the bowl can give some protection from the wind.
Approach - The crag is best reached by the Poets approach. Take the path that starts up a short steep road beside the blue Lambrino Apts and runs up the slope Once above the fence trend diagonally left to the base of the wall. Follow the fixed rope up into the bay.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Scrogneugneu
The left-hand line out of the bay.
 
2 Stars
6c
2
Snouf
The second line from the left arete has tough bulge.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
3
Reste Haut de Coeur
Good positions and moves but a bit sharp at the top.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b+
4
Boubou
Great climbing, thin and fingery to start and sustained all the way, with good positions. May become the classic of the sector.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b
5
Y'a Rien au Dessus
An excellent pitch, keep left at the top.
 
3 Stars
6b+
6
Y'a Rien au Dessus Right
The right-hand finish may be even better.
 
3 Stars
6b+
7
Patrick and Bambou
Head for a lower-off below the prominent bulge eases with height.
 
2 Stars
6a+
8
Patrick and Bambou EXT
The tough extension through the bulge.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
9
Extra tes Restes
Pass to the right of the bulge.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
10
Dream Thym
 
2 Stars
6b+
11
Mytos
A long and rather sharp pitch up a shattered flake with the crux at the top. Currently a bit of a disappointment.
 
1 Stars
Loose
6b
12
Propolis
1) 6a, 2) 5c. An old and neglected two pitch climb that has been rebolted and properly cleaned - it might get done a bit now!...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a
13
Ates Souhaits
Looks a bit scrappy but climbs well. Nicely sustained at the grade with a couple of harder moves near the top.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
14
Été Indien
A lovely route, a bit botanical at bottom but that doesn't spoil the climbing higher up.
 
3 Stars
DWS
6a+
  • Latest Comments

    For POETS AREA

    Ione
    "7a+ for sure - a crimpy and technical slab" 12/Dec

    Palamas
    "This route is now ranked 6c Worth doing - be carefull, crux is just over a vir..." 27/Sep

    Omero
    "The hardest 7 a I did in Kalymnos. Fierce to on-sight" 19/Nov

    Pipe Cleaner
    "Very nic tufa climbing, but over-rated: 7a+ seems right, as written on the rock...." 08/Nov

    Pindaros
    "Oct 09, Lower off complete with crab and chain." 23/Oct

    Ibria
    "Sharp at the crux." 19/Oct

    Ione
    "7a+ in the guide book which it might well be if you dont escape and wonder to th..." 01/Dec

    Anacreonte
    "Very, very good. And 6a." 08/Oct top50

    Omero
    "7a may be justified? thin and technical through the crux. regardless of grade it..." 28/Sep

    Ouzo
    "Pleasantly surprised, thought this was better than the one star it is given. 5+ ..." 27/Sep

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