April Crack

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 mins

Superb offerings of April Crack, Christmas Crack and the Trinities, as well as the excellent Hargreavesí Original on the Black Slab. The latter route is the site of the famous (crazy?) leaping exploits of Alf Bridge. Guidebook page 172.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Macleod's Variation
18m. A variation finish from halfway up the slab feels like a cop-out. Shuffle left to climb the shallow groove and short...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
2
Hargreaves' Original
18m. One of Stanage's choice VSs. From a boulder, pull up and left onto the slab, traverse left then move up and right to a...
28 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
3
The Flange
16m. Powerful moves access the prominent niche at 4m (overhead gear). Continue up the flake of 'the flange' then the steep slab...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
HVS 5b
4
April Crack
16m. The steep crack in the open corner is awkward to start (easiest on the right) then gives fine sustained bridging and...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
HS 4b
5
Easter Rib
16m. Delicate and low in the grade - but precarious and scary! Climb the shallow groove just to the left of the nose (technical...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
6
Christmas Crack Top 50
16m. This long straight crack is a must; quite easy for the grade, but sustained. Climb a V-shaped groove to the crack and...
17 user comments
 
3 Stars
HS 4a
7
Twintrin
16m. Climb the Direct Start to Central Trinity, then move right and finish up the wall above its initial crack.
 
Reachy
Rounded
E1 5c
8
Central Trinity
16m. Climb the vertical crack that ends at 6m then traverse left to the base of the continuation crack which is entered by a...
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
9
Meiosis
14m. The wall to the right is climbed direct and features some long reaches between rounded breaks. Protection is good if you...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5b
10
Right-hand Trinity
14m. Climb the right-hand continuous crack directly, initially up an awkward right-facing corner. The crack is a good...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4b
11
Fergus Graham's Direct
12m. The wall immediately to the right of the crack is climbed direct. The route is effectively unprotected, although it is...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

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