Black Slab

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

Superb offerings of April Crack, Christmas Crack and the Trinities, as well as the excellent Hargreavesí Original on the Black Slab. The latter route is the site of the famous (crazy?) leaping exploits of Alf Bridge.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pedestal Chimney
Climb the slippery groove to the left of the pedestal then follow the deepening gully above to exit under the massive capstone.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
D
2
Wright's Route
The steep groove to the right of the pedestal is bridged and jammed to its top. Step up and make a short exposed swing out...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
3
Wall of Sound
A desperate line up the scooped wall. Climb the thin crack then move right via an enormous reach to a poor break. Continue...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
4
Whillans' Pendulum/Black Magic
A route of contrasts - the start is very hard for the short. Swing out right to jugs and a ledge on the front face. Move up...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
HVS 5b
5
Macleod's Variation
A decent variation finish from halfway up the slab feels like a cop-out. Shuffle left to climb the shallow groove and short...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
6
Hargreaves' Original
One of Stanage's choice VS climbs. From a boulder, pull up and left onto the slab, traverse left then move up and right to a...
28 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
7
The Flange
Powerful moves access the prominent niche at 4m (overhead gear). Continue up the flake of 'the flange' then the steep slab on...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
HVS 5b
8
April Crack
The steep crack in the open corner is awkward to start (easiest on the right) then gives fine sustained bridging and...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
9
Easter Rib
Delicate and low in the grade - but precarious and scary! Climb the shallow groove just to the left of the nose (technical...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
10
Christmas Crack Top 50
This long straight crack is a must; mild for the grade, but sustained. Climb a V-groove to the crack and follow it with...
17 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4a
11
Central Trinity
Start at a vertical crack that ends at 6m. Climb this then traverse left to the base of the continuation crack which is entered...
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
12
Twintrin
Climb the reachy wall above Central Trinity's initial crack.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E1 5c
13
Meiosis
The wall to the right is climbed direct via long reaches between rounded breaks. Protection is good if you carry plenty of...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5b
14
Right-hand Trinity
Climb the right-hand continuous crack directly, initially up an awkward right-facing corner. The crack is a good intro to the...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
S 4b
15
Fergus Graham's Direct
The wall immediately to the right of the crack. The route isn't well protected, although it is easy to lean left to place...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
16
Topaz
Up the leaning arete on its right side by technical laybacking and long reaches, until a grasping exit round the arete becomes...
 
Reachy
Fluttery
E4 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

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