Adjacent Areas
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The crag presents a long face, stretching up the hillside and overlooking the town. The main area of interest is the central section which is easy to get to and consists of excellent rock. The two sections of orange rock offer steeper challenges, the upper right-hand one having the best routes on the crag. The easier-angled grey walls in between these orange bays have more amenably graded routes. The other sections of the cliff have been developed albeit with lower quality routes than those described here. There are a few easier slabby routes on the lower left-hand side, below the walled trough below the main section. It faces west which can be useful in hot weather for morning routes. It isnÕt very sheltered and wonÕt offer much climbing in the rain. Guidebook page 16.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Istringhe a culu Climb straight up across a long diagonal groove to a hard finish high up. | 1 Stars | 6c+ |
2 |
Vamos a bailar Short wall and bulge just right of the groove. | 1 Stars | 6b |
3 |
Baila guapa loca Another wall and bulge just to the right. | 1 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
4 |
Stefluis Crisan Only one hard move. This is the painted name; other guides call it Persone curiose. | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
5 |
L'ombra delle fanciulle Fine climbing up past a dark diagonal slot. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
6 |
Il regno della miseria Top 50 Sustained wall. 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
7 |
Clementin Top 50 Wall left of a cave. 3 user comments | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
8 |
La ricetta della felcita 1 Excellent first pitch to a lower-off near the cave. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | 5 |
9 |
La ricetta della felcita 2 30m. After a hard initial move, big holds lead to thetop. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b+ |
10 |
The Luisa Parallel line to La ricetta. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6a |
11 |
Doctor sacu Move left from the ledge and fight through the spiky plant. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6b |
12 |
Non fachede a zizare sas palasas The blocky wall past the tall slot. Grade uncertain. | 6b+ | |
13 |
Joker Straightforward wall to tricky finish. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | 6c |
14 |
El corrson de espinado Attractive wall with steep central section. | 1 Stars | 6c |
15 |
O animal! Top 50 The beautiful white tufa leads to a hard finish over the bulge. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
16 |
Forse Hotel The edge of the curving scoop has a hard crux. | 2 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
17 |
Nuovi equilibri Start as for the previous route but climb direct up the wall. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | 6c |
18 |
No mi cherio mudanda Lovely long crack climb reached from the right-hand side of the detached pillar. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
19 |
Apoteke Top 50 A finely positioned climb. Start by scrambling across to a comfortable hanging belay. 3 user comments | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
20 |
Rita lavora Climb diagonally left from the ledge to gain the line. Some hollow rock. | 2 Stars Loose | 6a+ |
21 |
Dodoi Top 50 A good clean wall. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
22 |
Bastardo dentro A steep start but easier above. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
23 |
Ester Direct from a ledge over the bulge. | 1 Stars | 6c |
24 |
Toscanita Top 50 30m. The lower tufa is relatively straightforward. Above that is a savage crux on the steep orange section. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
25 |
Older Top 50 30m. Again the lower section is OK but higher up it packs it in. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
26 |
Overland 1 Top 50 Brilliant and unlikely climbing with superb holds all the way. Locally given 6c+ for some bizarre reason. Lower-off or try: 8 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | 6b |
27 |
Overland 2 Top 50 30m. Hard climbing in a great position up the tower. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | 7a+ |
28 |
L'operaio Top 50 A technical start but it relents above. 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | 6c |
29 |
Aspettando il sole Top 50 Superb climbing. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
30 |
Is clonis The blunt arete just right of the orange scoop. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6a |