Dorgali Main

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Sport
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill

The crag presents a long face, stretching up the hillside and overlooking the town. The main area of interest is the central section which is easy to get to and consists of excellent rock. The two sections of orange rock offer steeper challenges, the upper right-hand one having the best routes on the crag. The easier-angled grey walls in between these orange bays have more amenably graded routes. The other sections of the cliff have been developed albeit with lower quality routes than those described here. There are a few easier slabby routes on the lower left-hand side, below the walled trough below the main section. It faces west which can be useful in hot weather for morning routes. It isnÕt very sheltered and wonÕt offer much climbing in the rain. Guidebook page 16.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Istringhe a culu
Climb straight up across a long diagonal groove to a hard finish high up.
 
1 Stars
6c+
2
Vamos a bailar
Short wall and bulge just right of the groove.
 
1 Stars
6b
3
Baila guapa loca
Another wall and bulge just to the right.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
4
Stefluis Crisan
Only one hard move. This is the painted name; other guides call it Persone curiose.
 
1 Stars
6a+
5
L'ombra delle fanciulle
Fine climbing up past a dark diagonal slot.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a+
6
Il regno della miseria Top 50
Sustained wall.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
7
Clementin Top 50
Wall left of a cave.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
6a+
8
La ricetta della felcita 1
Excellent first pitch to a lower-off near the cave.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5a
9
La ricetta della felcita 2
30m. After a hard initial move, big holds lead to thetop.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
10
The Luisa
Parallel line to La ricetta.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
11
Doctor sacu
Move left from the ledge and fight through the spiky plant.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
12
Non fachede a zizare sas palasas
The blocky wall past the tall slot. Grade uncertain.
 6b+
13
Joker
Straightforward wall to tricky finish.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6c
14
El corrson de espinado
Attractive wall with steep central section.
 
1 Stars
6c
15
O animal! Top 50
The beautiful white tufa leads to a hard finish over the bulge.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
16
Forse Hotel
The edge of the curving scoop has a hard crux.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
17
Nuovi equilibri
Start as for the previous route but climb direct up the wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
18
No mi cherio mudanda
Lovely long crack climb reached from the right-hand side of the detached pillar.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
19
Apoteke Top 50
A finely positioned climb. Start by scrambling across to a comfortable hanging belay.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
6a+
20
Rita lavora
Climb diagonally left from the ledge to gain the line. Some hollow rock.
 
2 Stars
Loose
6a+
21
Dodoi Top 50
A good clean wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a+
22
Bastardo dentro
A steep start but easier above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
23
Ester
Direct from a ledge over the bulge.
 
1 Stars
6c
24
Toscanita Top 50
30m. The lower tufa is relatively straightforward. Above that is a savage crux on the steep orange section.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
25
Older Top 50
30m. Again the lower section is OK but higher up it packs it in.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
26
Overland 1 Top 50
Brilliant and unlikely climbing with superb holds all the way. Locally given 6c+ for some bizarre reason. Lower-off or try:
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
6b
27
Overland 2 Top 50
30m. Hard climbing in a great position up the tower.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a+
28
L'operaio Top 50
A technical start but it relents above.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
29
Aspettando il sole Top 50
Superb climbing.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
30
Is clonis
The blunt arete just right of the orange scoop.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
  • Latest Comments

    For DORGALI

    Overland 1
    "6b is bizarre. Solid 6c if you don't skip right at the crux." 15/Nov top50

    Aspettando il sole
    "sustained, virtually 6a from start to finish with a couple of 6a+ moves thrown ..." 24/Apr top50

    L'operaio
    "Nice start easier than it looks,then steady jug pulling to the top" 04/Nov top50

    Apoteke
    "Flake still there. Good moves all the way, did not find it too strenuos, and no ..." 03/Nov top50

    Is clonis
    "Really good 6a climbing - much less sustained but nearly as good as it's more po..." 29/Oct

    Overland 1
    "Had a shoebox sized hold break off on me on this route, went flying and nearly k..." 21/Oct top50

    L'ombra delle fanciulle
    "Nice long warmup." 30/Mar

    Older
    "There is a bolt missing at the top of the tufa section, so at the moment it's an..." 25/Nov top50

    Overland 1
    "6c I think for the move two thirds of the way up." 30/Jun top50

    Clementin
    "The guide says 'embossed slab'. Don't be fooled - this excellent route is not a ..." 03/Nov top50

    Joker
    "Brilliant route! Good jugs all the way on steep ground. finishing moves OK, good..." 03/Nov

    Il regno della miseria
    "The best route on this section of the wall. Good sustained first half, followed..." 09/Jan top50

    Doctor sacu
    "I think the plant has fought too many battles, it now offers little resistance" 10/Dec

    Overland 1
    "Good warmup for Toscanito and Older." 09/Dec top50

    Older
    "Another terrific pitch. (I thought that these 3 routes Toscanito, Older, and Ov..." 09/Dec top50

    Apoteke
    "Very nice route with a rather worrying flake at about 8 m which can be bypassed ..." 03/Dec top50

    Overland 2
    "Absolutely great, amazingly exposed and super positions on the edge of nowhere. ..." 30/Nov top50

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