Adjacent Areas
< April Crack | Hollybush Crack >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 minsWindy
The short wall decorated with a selection of rusty blobs is always popular with the bouldering brigade. Sadly 50+ years of ascents has led to serious erosion, all the routes have become polished and harder. The cracks here are all well protected and make good introductions to the grade, well, apart from Green Crack which is awkward when dry and unpleasant when wet. Guidebook page 174.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Topaz 10m. The arete on its right side, by technical laybacking and long reaches, until a grasping exit to the other side becomes... | Reachy Fluttery | E4 6a |
2 |
Green Crack 10m. The square-cut corner is fine when dry though the final narrow chimney is always an awkward grovel. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
3 |
Rugosity Wall 10m. The wall 2m to the right of Green Crack has a technical start leading to easier-angled climbing which has one more tricky... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5c |
4 |
Rusty Wall 10m. The wall left of the crack has hard starting moves. Once the first good hold (a 4c hop away for the tall) is reached... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 6a |
5 |
Rusty Crack 10m. The left-hand crack has a hard start using polished footholds and painful finger jams. Although hard it can be well... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5c |
6 |
Via Media 10m. The protectable right-hand crack finishing up the short and easy chockstoned chimney above. 11 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
7 |
Via Dexter Direct 10m. The centre of the wall is technical and protection is poor. Variations to the right are easier though somewhat inferior. 7 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5c |
8 |
Oblique Crack 10m. The crack that bounds the right-hand side of the main section of Rusty Wall. The lower section gives good jamming and... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | S 4a |
9 |
Straight Chimney 10m. The crack widens as it rises and has awkward moves to pass the small overhang. 2 user comments | VD | |