Rusty Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Black Slab  |  Hollybush Crack >

Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

The short wall decorated with a selection of rusty blobs is always popular with the bouldering brigade. Sadly 50+ years of ascents has led to serious erosion, all the routes have become polished and harder. The cracks here are all well protected and make good introductions to the grade, well, apart from Green Crack which is awkward when dry and unpleasant when wet.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Green Crack
The wide crack in the angular corner is fine when dry though the final narrow chimney is always an awkward grovel.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
2
Rugosity Wall
The wall 2m to the right of Green Crack has a technical start (V2âÄä) then easier-angled climbing which has one more tricky...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5c
3
Rusty Wall
The wall left of the crack has hard starting moves (V2âÄä). Once the first good hold (just a 4c hop away for the tall) is...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 6a
4
Rusty Crack
The left-hand crack has a hard start using polished footholds and thin finger-jams. Although hard it takes good small wires.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5c
5
Via Media
The protectable and pleasant right-hand crack finishing up the short and easy chockstoned chimney above.
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
6
Via Dexter Direct
The centre of the wall is quite technical and has no protection. Variations to the right are easier (HVS 5aâÄä) but inferior.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
7
Oblique Crack
The crack that bounds the right-hand side of Rusty Wall. The lower section gives jamming past a wobbly chock. Finish easily.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S 4a
8
Oblique Buttress
Teeter up the narrow buttress. Using either arete drops it to 4c.
 
Technical
VS 5b
9
Straight Chimney
The crack widens and has awkward moves past the closure.
2 user comments
 
Graunchy
VD
10
Albert's Pillar
The barrel-shaped buttress is tricky to start but soon eases.
 
Technical
VS 4c
11
Albert's Amble
Another one that eases once you get going.
 
Graunchy
HVD
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

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    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
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    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

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    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

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    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

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