Rusty Wall

Adjacent Areas
< April Crack  |  Hollybush Crack >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 mins

The short wall decorated with a selection of rusty blobs is always popular with the bouldering brigade. Sadly 50+ years of ascents has led to serious erosion, all the routes have become polished and harder. The cracks here are all well protected and make good introductions to the grade, well, apart from Green Crack which is awkward when dry and unpleasant when wet. Guidebook page 174.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Topaz
10m. The arete on its right side, by technical laybacking and long reaches, until a grasping exit to the other side becomes...
 
Reachy
Fluttery
E4 6a
2
Green Crack
10m. The square-cut corner is fine when dry though the final narrow chimney is always an awkward grovel.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
3
Rugosity Wall
10m. The wall 2m to the right of Green Crack has a technical start leading to easier-angled climbing which has one more tricky...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5c
4
Rusty Wall
10m. The wall left of the crack has hard starting moves. Once the first good hold (a 4c hop away for the tall) is reached...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 6a
5
Rusty Crack
10m. The left-hand crack has a hard start using polished footholds and painful finger jams. Although hard it can be well...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5c
6
Via Media
10m. The protectable right-hand crack finishing up the short and easy chockstoned chimney above.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
7
Via Dexter Direct
10m. The centre of the wall is technical and protection is poor. Variations to the right are easier though somewhat inferior.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
8
Oblique Crack
10m. The crack that bounds the right-hand side of the main section of Rusty Wall. The lower section gives good jamming and...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
9
Straight Chimney
10m. The crack widens as it rises and has awkward moves to pass the small overhang.
2 user comments
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

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