Hollybush Crack

Adjacent Areas
< Rusty Wall  |  Flying Buttress >

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Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

A very popular area with a fine set of climbs including the classics of Hollybush Crack at VDiff and Queersville at HVS, plus a selection of routes of only a slightly lesser stature. As might be expected, with good routes and the closeness to the car park, the area is always busy.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Straight and Narrow
A direct eliminate on the next route to a hard exit.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 5a
2
Narrow Buttress
Climb the right arete then move to the left edge briefly before traversing back right again and going directly to a juggy...
15 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
3
Hollybush Crack Top 50
The clean-cut corner-crack is steep and excellent. The lower section polished some polished footholds and is the crux but the...
19 user comments
 
3 Stars
VD
4
Straightsville
The wall paralleling the crack has some good moves and no line.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
5
Queersville
Start up a jutting rib on the right side of the bay, then stretch out left to ledges. Climb to a broken flake under the roof...
21 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
6
The Nose
Worthwhile but neglected with poor gear. The bulging arete leads to a ledge. Step left and continue via bold laybacking.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
7
Yosemite Wall
Climb into a small recess then make difficult moves to the ledge. The thin crack on the left is well battered but a discrete...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E2 5b
8
Leaning Buttress Gully
The left-hand crack in the square recess with hard moves past the roof. Bridge direct or move right into the next climb to...
1 user comment
 
Strong
VS 5a
9
Hangover
Take the right-hand crack in the recess is better though avoiding the previous route completely is problematic.
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 5a
10
Leaning Buttress Direct
The pillar is climbed direct with tricky moves to leave the ground and a crux off the ledge. It is easier but a bit bolder...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
11
Leaning Buttress Crack
The long groove on the right-hand side of the pillar is followed throughout. It is well protected, very pleasant and popular.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VD
12
Leaning Buttress Indirect
A wandering route with an exposed finish. Climb the corner crack to ledges then traverse out on to the front of the buttress...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
13
The Bishop's Move
Start up the previous route then squeeze through the gap behind the buttress to finish on the other side. A rope-work...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
14
Right On
The disjointed cracks right of the main groove give some decent moves, getting on top of a pedestal at half-height is the crux.
 HS 4b
15
Garden Wall
Climb the awkward angle to a ledge then move right to below the chimney (possible stance). Climb to the chock then step left...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
16
Space Junk
Starting up the arete on the left of the jutting buttress and finish up the wall on the right of the upper crack. Often green.
 
Rounded
HVS 5a
17
Chockstone Direct
Climb the central crack to the ledge then continue direct passing the blocking boulder awkwardly.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S 4a
18
Armchair Buccaneer
Climbs the centre of the wall just right aiming just left of the high holly bush. Often green.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5a
19
Beech Tree Wall
A short crack leads to the right side of the ledge. Head right up the face (awkward to start) finishing just right of the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
HS 4b
20
Wild West Wind
Go left then right making the most of the right side of the face.
 
Rounded
S 4a
21
Scrappy Corner
An initial groove leads to blocky ramblings above.
 D
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

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