Hollybush Crack

Adjacent Areas
< Rusty Wall  |  Flying Buttress >

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Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

A very popular area with a fine set of climbs including the classics of Hollybush Crack at VDiff and Queersville at HVS, plus a selection of routes of only a slightly lesser stature. As might be expected, with good routes and the closeness to the car park, the area is always busy.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Narrow Buttress
14m. Climb the right arete then move over on to the left-hand edge briefly before traversing back to the right again and...
15 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
2
Hollybush Crack Top 50
14m. The clean-cut corner-crack is steep and excellent. The lower section has some polished footholds and is the crux but the...
19 user comments
 
3 Stars
VD
3
Queersville
16m. Start up a jutting flake on the right side of the bay, then stretch out left to flat ledges. Climb to a broken flake under...
21 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
4
The Nose
14m. A worthwhile but neglected outing with poor gear. Up the strenuous bulging arete on small holds to a ledge. Step left and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
5
Yosemite Wall
16m. A varied route. Climb into a small recess then make difficult moves (easier on the left) to the ledge above. Poor runners...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E2 5b
6
Leaning Buttress Gully
16m. The left-hand crack in the square recess with hard moves to pass the overhang. Above this, bridge direct or move right...
1 user comment
 VS 5a
7
Hangover
16m. Take the right-hand crack in the recess. Pass the overhang with difficulty then follow easier ground up the continuation...
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 5a
8
Leaning Buttress Direct
16m. The narrow face is climbed direct with tricky moves to leave the ground and the ledge. It is easier but bolder above.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
9
Leaning Buttress Indirect
16m. A wandering route with an exposed finish. Climb the corner-crack to ledges then traverse out onto the front of the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
10
Leaning Buttress Crack
14m. The long groove on the right-hand side of the pillar is followed throughout. It is well protected and very pleasant.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
11
Garden Wall
16m. Climb the awkward angle to a ledge then move right to below the chimney (possible stance). Climb to the chock then step...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
12
Chockstone Direct
14m. It does what it says on the tin! Climb the central crack to the ledge then continue direct passing the blocking boulder.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
13
Beech Tree Wall
14m. A short crack leads to the right side of the ledge. Head right up the face (awkward start) finishing just right of the...
4 user comments
 HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

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