Flying Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Hollybush Crack  |  Tippler Buttress >

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Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

One of the most recognisable pieces of gritstone architecture is the steep slab and series of stacked overhangs of Flying Buttress; prepare to join the queue if you are after the classic HVD. The spectacular Flying Buttress Direct launches through the centre of the overhangs and is a real adrenaline trip. Across the descent gully are some milder though much more serious adventures.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Wedge
The blunter of the twin buttresses has a tricky move before the angle drops back. Escape off left or finish up Wedge Rib.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
2
Wedge Gully
The deep rift leads through a tunnel to easier ground. Mild in the extreme though a bridging outside exit is harder - VDiff.
 M
3
Wedge Rib
The axe-edge rib in the gully has a delicate layback start (just worth a star) leading to easier climbing up the broad rib...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
4
Flying Buttress Gully
The long blocky gully gives a neglected low-grade route.
2 user comments
 D
5
Flying Buttress Top 50
A wandering classic. Head up the unprotected 'question-mark' slab to its top left-hand corner. The undercut groove here is...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVD 4a
6
Goodbye Toulouse
An exciting route across the left-hand side of the roof. Climb the slab to the curving flake in the overhang then from using...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
7
Flying Buttress Direct Top 50
Exhilarating climbing on large holds. The grade is quite close to the HVS/E1 boundary so the arguments will go on. Climb the...
41 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
8
Flying Butt
A bizarre route, said to be the longest roof pitch on grit and not one for a busy day. From the start of Kirkus's Corner make...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3 5c
9
Kirkus's Corner
A good varied route. Climb the edge of the slab to the right end of the overhangs and pull through at a short vertical crack...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
10
Spasticus Artisticus
The right-hand face of Flying Buttress is climbed trending left by pumpy moves on green and shelving holds. Harrowing.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 5c
11
Jitterbug Buttress
In the back of the gully is a narrow buttress. Climb the bold wall to the capping overhang and then sneak off rightwards below...
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
S 4a
12
The Kirkus Original
Start from a block to the right of the base of the gully. Go up the face to harder moves at half-height (holds to the right)...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 5a
13
Jitter Face
Start below the centre of the face and climb until sloping holds lead diagonally right towards the arete. After a couple of...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
HS 4a
14
Townsend's Variation
Take the lowest possible line up the edge of the face on sloping footholds and then move around on to the exposed face where...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

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