Flying Buttress

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< Hollybush Crack  |  Tippler Buttress >

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The stacked overhangs form one of the most recognisable pieces of gritstone - Flying Buttress; join the queue if you are after the classic HVD. The spectacular Flying Buttress Direct launches through the centre of the overhangs and is a real adrenaline trip, the grade of which always makes good pub-fodder. Across the descent gully are some milder though more serious adventures.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Wedge
The blunter of the twin buttresses has a tricky move before the angle drops back. Escape off left or finish up Wedge Rib.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
2
Wedge Gully
The deep rift leads through a tunnel to easier ground. Mild in the extreme though a bridging outside exit is harder - VD.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
M
3
Wedge Rib
The axe-edge rib in the gully has a delicate layback start (just worth a star) leading to easier climbing up the broad rib...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
4
Flying Buttress Gully
The long blocky gully gives a neglected low-grade route.
3 user comments
 Diff
5
Flying Buttress Top 50
A wandering classic. Head up the unprotected 'question-mark' slab to its top left-hand corner. The undercut groove here is...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVD
6
Goodbye Toulouse
An exciting route across the left-hand side of the roof. Climb the slab to the curving flake in the overhang, then using fat...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
7
Flying Buttress Direct Top 50
Exhilarating climbing on large holds. The grade is quite close to the HVS/E1 boundary so the arguments will go on. Climb the...
41 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E1
8
Flying Butt
A bizarre route, said to be the longest roof pitch on grit and not one for a busy day. From the start of Kirkus's Corner make...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E3
9
Kirkus's Corner
A good varied route. Climb the edge of the slab to the right end of the overhangs and pull through at a short vertical crack...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1
10
Spasticus Artisticus
The right-hand face of Flying Buttress is climbed trending left by pumpy moves on green and shelving holds. Harrowing.
 E4
11
Jitterbug Buttress
In the back of the gully is a narrow buttress. Climb the bold wall to the capping overhang and then sneak off rightwards below...
2 user comments
 S
12
The Kirkus Original
Start from a block to the right of the base of the gully. Go up the face to harder moves at half-height (holds to the right)...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
13
Jitter Face
Start below the centre of the face and climb until sloping holds lead diagonally right towards the arete. After a couple of...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
14
Townsend's Variation
Take the lowest possible line up the edge of the face on sloping footholds and then move around onto the exposed face where...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Bobsnob
    "E1 5a my arse! E3 5b as least. Some great moves going up for the top little righ..." 30/Mar

    Via Roof Route
    "Two highly contrasting pitches: precarious slab climbing - usually on rock that ..." 20/Aug

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

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