Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
12 minsWindy
One of the most recognisable pieces of gritstone architecture is the steep slab and series of stacked overhangs of Flying Buttress; prepare to join the queue if you are after the classic HVD. The spectacular Flying Buttress Direct launches through the centre of the overhangs and is a real adrenaline trip. Across the descent gully are some milder though much more serious adventures. Guidebook page 176.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Wedge 14m. The blunter of the twin buttresses has a tricky move before the angle drops back. Escape off left or finish up Wedge Rib. 1 user comment | Technical | VS 5a |
2 |
Wedge Gully 14m. The deep rift through a tunnel to easier ground - mild in the extreme though an outside exit is VDiff. | M | |
3 |
Wedge Rib 14m. The axe-edge rib in the gully has a delicate layback start (almost worth a star) - avoid the crack on the left at the... 2 user comments | Technical | VS 5a |
4 |
Flying Buttress Gully 14m. The long blocky gully gives a neglected low-grade route. 2 user comments | VD | |
5 |
Flying Buttress Top 50 24m. A vaunted classic. Wander up the unprotected ‘question-mark' slab to its top left-hand corner. The undercut groove here is... 12 user comments | 3 Stars | HVD 4a |
6 |
Goodbye Toulouse 16m. A mildy wild exciting route across the left-hand side of the roof. Climb the slab to the curving flake in the overhang... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy | E1 5b |
7 |
Flying Buttress Direct Top 50 16m. Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Now re-established at its true HVS grade but it is a real thriller the first time... 39 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | HVS 5b |
8 |
Flying Butt 20m. A bizarre route, said to be the longest roof pitch on grit and not one for a busy day. From the start of Kirkus's Corner... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E3 5c |
9 |
Kirkus's Corner 14m. A good route with a stiff crux and delicate finale. Climb the edge of the slab to the right end of the overhangs and pull... 11 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Rounded Fluttery | E1 5b |
10 |
Spasticus Artisticus 10m. The right-hand face of Flying Buttress is climbed trending left by pumpy moves on green shelving holds - harrowing. | Rounded Fluttery | E4 5c |
11 |
Jitterbug Buttress 12m. In the back of the gully is a narrow buttress. Climb the wall to the capping overhang and then sneak off rightwards below... 2 user comments | S 4a | |
12 |
Kirkus's Left-hand 10m. The left-hand side of the face pulling over the flaky roof and padding up the scoop above. 2 user comments | Rounded Fluttery | S 4b |
13 |
The Kirkus Original 12m. Start from a block to the right of the base of the gully. Go up the face to harder moves at half-height (holds to the... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | VS 4c |
14 |
Jitter Face 14m. Start below the centre of the face and climb until sloping holds lead diagonally right towards the arete. After a couple... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | HS 4a |
15 |
Townsend's Variation 14m. Take the lowest possible line up the edge of the face on sloping footholds and then move around onto the exposed face... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | HVS 4c |
