Flying Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Hollybush Crack  |  Tippler Buttress >

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Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill

One of the most recognisable pieces of gritstone architecture is the steep slab and series of stacked overhangs of Flying Buttress; prepare to join the queue if you are after the classic HVD. The spectacular Flying Buttress Direct launches through the centre of the overhangs and is a real adrenaline trip. Across the descent gully are some milder though much more serious adventures.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Wedge
14m. The blunter of the twin buttresses has a tricky move before the angle drops back. Escape off left or finish up Wedge Rib.
1 user comment
 
Technical
VS 5a
2
Wedge Gully
14m. The deep rift through a tunnel to easier ground - mild in the extreme though an outside exit is VDiff.
 M
3
Wedge Rib
14m. The axe-edge rib in the gully has a delicate layback start (almost worth a star) - avoid the crack on the left at the...
2 user comments
 
Technical
VS 5a
4
Flying Buttress Gully
14m. The long blocky gully gives a neglected low-grade route.
2 user comments
 VD
5
Flying Buttress Top 50
24m. A vaunted classic. Wander up the unprotected ‘question-mark' slab to its top left-hand corner. The undercut groove here is...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVD 4a
6
Goodbye Toulouse
16m. A mildy wild exciting route across the left-hand side of the roof. Climb the slab to the curving flake in the overhang...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
7
Flying Buttress Direct Top 50
16m. Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Now re-established at its true HVS grade but it is a real thriller the first time...
41 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
8
Flying Butt
20m. A bizarre route, said to be the longest roof pitch on grit and not one for a busy day. From the start of Kirkus's Corner...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3 5c
9
Kirkus's Corner
14m. A good route with a stiff crux and delicate finale. Climb the edge of the slab to the right end of the overhangs and pull...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
10
Spasticus Artisticus
10m. The right-hand face of Flying Buttress is climbed trending left by pumpy moves on green shelving holds - harrowing.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 5c
11
Jitterbug Buttress
12m. In the back of the gully is a narrow buttress. Climb the wall to the capping overhang and then sneak off rightwards below...
2 user comments
 S 4a
12
Kirkus's Left-hand
10m. The left-hand side of the face pulling over the flaky roof and padding up the scoop above.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
S 4b
13
The Kirkus Original
12m. Start from a block to the right of the base of the gully. Go up the face to harder moves at half-height (holds to the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
14
Jitter Face
14m. Start below the centre of the face and climb until sloping holds lead diagonally right towards the arete. After a couple...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
HS 4a
15
Townsend's Variation
14m. Take the lowest possible line up the edge of the face on sloping footholds and then move around onto the exposed face...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

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