Tippler Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

An impressive buttress which is home to a fine set of strenuous routes. From the unnerving boldness of Censor, through the brutality of The Unprintable to the daunting roof of The Dangler and the surprising technicality of The Tippler. The strong and proficient will love the place, the weak and timid will probably walk on by.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Censor
Intimidating and memorable. From blocks, enter the leaning groove (poor wires) then climb to the roof. Swing right and scale...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
2
The Unprintable
Chubbin' desperate! The left-hand crack leads to a cramped recess. The exit is difficult - swing into a layback on jams...
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E1 5b
3
The Dangler
A thugtastic roof-crack. Climb the right-hand thin crack into a cave (threads) then head outwards. A long reach gains the break...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E2 5c
4
Tippler Direct Top 50
A fine piece of roof climbing. Climb through the stacked roof to a good hold, a massive lock-off or a short leap is needed to...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
E3 6a
5
Paranoid
Follow Tippler Direct to the roof, move right and make a desperate reach and fierce pull over. Shorties will need to traverse...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E6 6b
6
The Tippler Top 50
A devious classic and solid at the grade! Climb the right arete, past a tricky overlap, to the big roof. Traverse left then...
16 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
7
The 9 o'clock Watershed
On the side-wall of The Tippler. Head up to a move out left to the arete where powerful use of an undercut accesses a good hold...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E6 6c
8
The Muted Trumper
The more direct version has a hard dynamic finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6 6c
9
The Y Crack
A good line up the long green groove to the right of The Tippler, best after a dry spell. The constricted lower section leads...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
10
The Z Crack
The hanging crack that splits the jutting nose requires a bit of a tussle to access. Once established, things ease a lot.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
VS 5a
11
Castle Chimney
The gloomy rift splitting the buttresses is a great beginner's route. Climb over blocks and into the gloom then bridge up to a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
M
12
Black Hawk Tower
Devious - care with the rope needed. Climb the chimney to the exposed ledge on the tower and follow it all the way round past...
 
1 Stars
VD 4a
13
Master of Disguise
Short and thrilling. Start left of Chameleon and climb the mottled wall then traverse out right to below the roof. Pull left...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E6 6c
14
Chameleon
Intimidating climbing up the jutting prow. Climb the lower wall to jams below the overhang, up this with difficulty (good small...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E4 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

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