Tippler Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 mins

An impressive buttress which is home to a fine set of strenuous routes. From the unnerving boldness of Censor, through the brutality of The Unprintable to the daunting roof of The Dangler and the surprising technicality of The Tippler. The strong and proficient will love the place, the weak and timid will probably walk on by. Guidebook page 178.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Censor
16m. Intimidating though with memorable climbing. From blocks, enter the leaning groove (poor wires) then climb to the roof....
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
2
The Unprintable
14m. Follow the deceptively awkward left-hand crack into a cramped recess. The exit from here is difficult and swearing can...
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
3
The Dangler
16m. A classic roof-crack. Climb the right-hand thin crack into a cave then head out into space. A long reach gains the break...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
4
Tippler Direct Top 50
16m. A fine piece of roof climbing. Climb through the stacked overhangs to a hanging position where a massive lock-off move, or...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
E3 6a
5
Paranoid
14m. Technical climbing over the right-hand side of the roof. Follow Tippler Direct to the roof then move right and make a...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E5 6b
6
The Tippler Top 50
18m. A devious classic and a stout challenge at the grade! Climb the right-hand arete, past a tricky overlap, to the big...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
7
The 9 o'clock Watershed
14m. Grown-ups only! Climb the side wall of The Tippler until it is possible to step onto the arete. An undercut in the roof...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E6 6c
8
The Muted Trumper
14m. The direct on the side wall has a hard dynamic finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6 6c
9
The Y Crack
16m. A good line up the long green groove bounding the right-hand side of The Tippler buttress is best after a dry spell. The...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
10
The Z Crack
16m. The hanging crack that splits the jutting nose requires a bit of a tussle to access. Once established, things ease a lot.
1 user comment
 
Strong
VS 4c
11
Castle Chimney
20m. The gloomy rift splitting the buttresses is a worthwhile expedition. Enter over blocks and head into the darkness until...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
M
12
Black Hawk Tower
24m. A devious expedition from the 1930s, care with the rope is needed. Climb the chimney until the exposed ledge on the tower...
 
1 Stars
VD 4a
13
Master of Disguise
14m. A short and thrilling problem. Start left of Chameleon and climb the mottled wall until it is possible to traverse out...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E6 6c
14
Chameleon
16m. An intimidating route up the jutting prow. Climb the lower wall to jams below the overhang. Climb this with difficulty...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E4 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

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