Adjacent Areas
< Flying Buttress | Black Hawk Area >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 minsWindy
An impressive buttress which is home to a fine set of strenuous routes. From the unnerving boldness of Censor, through the brutality of The Unprintable to the daunting roof of The Dangler and the surprising technicality of The Tippler. The strong and proficient will love the place, the weak and timid will probably walk on by. Guidebook page 178.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Censor 16m. Intimidating though with memorable climbing. From blocks, enter the leaning groove (poor wires) then climb to the roof.... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
2 |
The Unprintable 14m. Follow the deceptively awkward left-hand crack into a cramped recess. The exit from here is difficult and swearing can... 13 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
3 |
The Dangler 16m. A classic roof-crack. Climb the right-hand thin crack into a cave then head out into space. A long reach gains the break... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
4 |
Tippler Direct Top 50 16m. A fine piece of roof climbing. Climb through the stacked overhangs to a hanging position where a massive lock-off move, or... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy | E3 6a |
5 |
Paranoid 14m. Technical climbing over the right-hand side of the roof. Follow Tippler Direct to the roof then move right and make a... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E5 6b |
6 |
The Tippler Top 50 18m. A devious classic and a stout challenge at the grade! Climb the right-hand arete, past a tricky overlap, to the big... 15 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
7 |
The 9 o'clock Watershed 14m. Grown-ups only! Climb the side wall of The Tippler until it is possible to step onto the arete. An undercut in the roof... | 1 Stars Reachy | E6 6c |
8 |
The Muted Trumper 14m. The direct on the side wall has a hard dynamic finish. | 1 Stars Technical | E6 6c |
9 |
The Y Crack 16m. A good line up the long green groove bounding the right-hand side of The Tippler buttress is best after a dry spell. The... | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
10 |
The Z Crack 16m. The hanging crack that splits the jutting nose requires a bit of a tussle to access. Once established, things ease a lot. 1 user comment | Strong | VS 4c |
11 |
Castle Chimney 20m. The gloomy rift splitting the buttresses is a worthwhile expedition. Enter over blocks and head into the darkness until... 3 user comments | 2 Stars | M |
12 |
Black Hawk Tower 24m. A devious expedition from the 1930s, care with the rope is needed. Climb the chimney until the exposed ledge on the tower... | 1 Stars | VD 4a |
13 |
Master of Disguise 14m. A short and thrilling problem. Start left of Chameleon and climb the mottled wall until it is possible to traverse out... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E6 6c |
14 |
Chameleon 16m. An intimidating route up the jutting prow. Climb the lower wall to jams below the overhang. Climb this with difficulty... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Technical | E4 6a |
