Black Hawk Area

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

This may just be the most popular section of the most popular cliff in the country and with good reason. There are classics galore here especially in the lower grades. It is a place you will enjoy and keep returning to. If it is busy, consider walking a bit further down the edge to the delights of the Robin Hood and Mississippi areas.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Black Hawk Bastion
The capped groove is steady up to the big overhang where committing moves lead out left to a wild finish up the hanging left...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
2
Eliminator
Elegant climbing up the arete left of the big corner. The lower part is technical as far as a short vertical crack. Beefy moves...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
HVS 5b
3
Castle Crack
Up the slippery right-angled corner by laybacking or jamming. Finish direct easily, or up the steep arete just right - VS 4c.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
HS 4b
4
Black Hawk
Climb the flake-crack right of the corner and the overhang to a ledge then step right and follow a shallow crack to a better...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HS 4c
5
Elliott's Eliminate
Link the start of Black Hawk to the finish of Black Hawk Tower is a worthwhile trip.
 
1 Stars
HS 4c
6
Prudence
Climb the V-groove to ledges, step right and follow the thin crack to just below its end. Go straight up the wall to finish.
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
7
Black Hawk Traverse Left
Up the polished groove then make the 'Bishop's Stride' around the bulge to the left. The short can go higher - Burgess's...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
8
Providence
An eliminate up the wall with a couple of fierce fingery moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
9
Tribute to Joy
Climb the shallow groove to the break and then access the slab with the greatest of difficulty. More pebbles may have popped.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6 6c
10
Black Hawk Hell Crack Top 50
The crack in the right side of the wall is the line. It is juggy and well protected. A few slings for threads might be found...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
S 4a
11
Black Hawk Traverse Right
Start left of the chimney and follow scratched footholds right to a crack and climb this to bulges. Step right and climb the...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
D
12
Ugly Mugs
Bridge the groove under the chimney to a ledge then head onto the exposed juggy arete to the right.
 VS 4c
13
Moriaty
The jutting arete is climb on its right side by a technical layback.
 
Technical
E3 6a
14
Gargoyle Variant
Start under the hanging left arete of the buttress and climb the awkward wide crack to the overhang. Traverse right to below...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
HS 4b
15
Gargoyle Buttress
Mild and excellent. Start at the right toe of the buttress and after a couple of moves, follow a horizontal break out to the...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
16
Dry Rot
Start as for Gargoyle Buttress but climb the right-hand side of the upper slab precariously on poor holds and with scant gear.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

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