Manchester Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 mins

Maurice Linnell's 1930s Mancunian classic is well worth doing, as is nearby Gargoyle Buttress. Despite their popularity the trio of routes in the back of the bay on the right are less worthwhile, although there is little doubt they are better led than top-roped. Guidebook page 182.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Moriaty
14m. The jutting arete is climbed on its right-hand side by a short-lived, but technical and shin-scraping, layback.
 
Technical
E3 6a
2
Gargoyle Variant
14m. Start under the hanging left arete of the buttress and climb the awkward wide crack to the overhangs. Traverse out to the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS 4b
3
Gargoyle Buttress
14m. Mild and excellent. Start at the right toe of the buttress and after a couple of moves, follow a horizontal break out to...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
4
Dry Rot
14m. Start as for Gargoyle Buttress but climb the right-hand side of the upper slab on poor holds and with a lack of gear.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
5
Physiology
12m. The left-hand crack is arguably the best of the trio leading steeply, past plenty of runners, to an easy finishing groove.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
6
Sociology
12m. The centre of the narrow face is best climbed direct (poor protection on the line) to a finish up an easy groove.
2 user comments
 S 4a
7
Anatomy
12m. The right-hand corner is climbed to a move left at the awkward overhang (mind your head) and a finish up the corner. The...
5 user comments
 VD
8
Tinker's Crack
12m. A narrow wall split vertically in its upper part by a thin crack. Pull over a bulge to gain the crack and follow it to a...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
9
Beggar's Crack
12m. This wide crack starts off easily but has a hard move to pass the small overlap before easing again.
2 user comments
 VS 4c
10
Moss Side
14m. One for the hard lads. Mantel up the polished scoop to the break then claw a way up the steep slab using a critical...
 
Technical
E3 6a
11
Manchester Buttress
16m. Start up the crack in the arete then head left to outflank the first overhang. Move up to a deep break then make an...
21 user comments
 
3 Stars
HS 4b
12
Manchester United
12m. A short eliminate up the slab and wall with one long reach.
 
Reachy
HVS 5b
13
Two Tier Climb
12m. Climb a slabby pillar to a boulder-covered ledge. The upper wall gives a hard move above some low runners.
 VS 5a
14
Cakestand
10m. The narrow pillar on the right-hand side of the bay is followed throughout with a couple of long reaches. The final tricky...
4 user comments
 
Reachy
S 4b
15
Cool Groove
10m. The open groove steepens as it rises giving steady bridging to a tricky exit.
1 user comment
 S 4a
16
Lancashire Wall
12m. The centre of the wall has a delicate start from a block and a good finish up the short leaning front face of the final...
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
17
Crack and Corner
16m. Set in the arete is an attractive groove. Enter this using an unhelpful set of well scoured holds; frequently frustrating,...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
S 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

    Inverted V
    "led, forgot how to jam, so pulled up on ledges, great! top L exit." 28/Dec

    The Scoop
    "Easy with one 5a move, vague line and massively dissapointing for a 3 star route..." 26/Oct

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