Adjacent Areas
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Maurice Linnell's 1930s Mancunian classic is well worth doing, as is nearby Gargoyle Buttress. Despite their popularity the trio of routes in the back of the bay on the right are less worthwhile, although there is little doubt they are better led than top-roped. Guidebook page 182.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Moriaty 14m. The jutting arete is climbed on its right-hand side by a short-lived, but technical and shin-scraping, layback. | Technical | E3 6a |
2 |
Gargoyle Variant 14m. Start under the hanging left arete of the buttress and climb the awkward wide crack to the overhangs. Traverse out to the... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | HS 4b |
3 |
Gargoyle Buttress 14m. Mild and excellent. Start at the right toe of the buttress and after a couple of moves, follow a horizontal break out to... 11 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
4 |
Dry Rot 14m. Start as for Gargoyle Buttress but climb the right-hand side of the upper slab on poor holds and with a lack of gear. 1 user comment | Rounded Fluttery | E2 5b |
5 |
Physiology 12m. The left-hand crack is arguably the best of the trio leading steeply, past plenty of runners, to an easy finishing groove. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | VD |
6 |
Sociology 12m. The centre of the narrow face is best climbed direct (poor protection on the line) to a finish up an easy groove. 2 user comments | S 4a | |
7 |
Anatomy 12m. The right-hand corner is climbed to a move left at the awkward overhang (mind your head) and a finish up the corner. The... 5 user comments | VD | |
8 |
Tinker's Crack 12m. A narrow wall split vertically in its upper part by a thin crack. Pull over a bulge to gain the crack and follow it to a... 8 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | VS 4c |
9 |
Beggar's Crack 12m. This wide crack starts off easily but has a hard move to pass the small overlap before easing again. 2 user comments | VS 4c | |
10 |
Moss Side 14m. One for the hard lads. Mantel up the polished scoop to the break then claw a way up the steep slab using a critical... | Technical | E3 6a |
11 |
Manchester Buttress 16m. Start up the crack in the arete then head left to outflank the first overhang. Move up to a deep break then make an... 21 user comments | 3 Stars | HS 4b |
12 |
Manchester United 12m. A short eliminate up the slab and wall with one long reach. | Reachy | HVS 5b |
13 |
Two Tier Climb 12m. Climb a slabby pillar to a boulder-covered ledge. The upper wall gives a hard move above some low runners. | VS 5a | |
14 |
Cakestand 10m. The narrow pillar on the right-hand side of the bay is followed throughout with a couple of long reaches. The final tricky... 4 user comments | Reachy | S 4b |
15 |
Cool Groove 10m. The open groove steepens as it rises giving steady bridging to a tricky exit. 1 user comment | S 4a | |
16 |
Lancashire Wall 12m. The centre of the wall has a delicate start from a block and a good finish up the short leaning front face of the final... 13 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | HVS 5a |
17 |
Crack and Corner 16m. Set in the arete is an attractive groove. Enter this using an unhelpful set of well scoured holds; frequently frustrating,... 18 user comments | 3 Stars | S 4b |
