Grotto Slab

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

Grotto Slab is a popular, worthwhile and very mild beginnerís climb and Heather Wall is one of the most popular routes around. Along with Crack and Corner, it is so popular that at weekends you will probably have to join the queue. The rest of the climbs in this area see less attention than those just a little further left along the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Two Tier Climb
Climb a slabby pillar to a boulder-covered ledge. The upper wall gives one hard move above some low runners.
 
Technical
Fluttery
VS 5a
2
Cakestand
The narrow pillar is followed with a couple of long reaches. The final tricky nose is easily avoidable. Beware the loose flake.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Loose
S 4b
3
Cool Groove
The open groove steepens as it rises giving steady bridging to a steep and tricky exit. The crack just right offers a rather...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
4
Lancashire Wall
The centre of the wall has a delicate start from a block and a good finish up the short leaning front face of the final block....
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
5
Crack and Corner
Set in the arete is this attractive groove. Enter this using an unhelpful set of scoured holds; frequently frustrating, though...
19 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Rounded
S 4b
6
War Zone
The tricky right arete of Crack and Corner gives an extended boulder problem. There is an independent finish above, keeping out...
 
Technical
Crimpy
V3 6A
7
Heather Wall
Excellent climbing up the cracked face to a deeper vertical crack. Awkward moves gain a ledge then a right-trending scoop. From...
21 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
8
Heather Wall Variation
A right-hand start is also worthwhile, and less polished.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
9
Chimp's Corner
Odd but amusing. Monkey up the steep blocky corner to its top then trend left up the wall to below the final large roof that...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 5b
10
Grotto Slab
Often used as a descent route but also worthwhile as a beginner's route. Start at the toe of the slab and ascend to its tip -...
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
11
Jersey Boys
Start right of the slumped flake in a pit. Climb the easy corner then a blunt rib on the right, and the final wall on slopers.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5a
12
Grotto Wall
Start in the unsavoury pit and gain the shallow left-facing groove which is climbed boldly to a tricky exit and runners....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 4c
13
Green Wall
The crack in the wall just left of the narrow chimney has a tricky landing on a green ledge. Best avoided when at all damp.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
14
Capstone Chimney
The shallow open chimney is most easily climbed up its left-hand corner to a steep exit. Surprisingly popular.
 
1 Stars
D
15
Little Ernie
Start on the left and trend right across the buttress via ledges to reach easy ground. Not well protected.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
S 4a
16
Big Chris
The centre of the face starting down and right is followed via a thin crack to a tricky finale using the bum-crack.
1 user comment
 HVS 5b
17
In Earnest
The pleasant arete of the bay by boldish laybacking.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
18
Recess Wall
The left-slanting groove in the recess using glossy holds and side-stepping a bevy of bulges to a tricky last move.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVD
19
Right Wall Route
Start as for Recess Wall but follow the right-trending flakes to a crack that splits the right-hand edge of the capping...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
20
Randolf Cheerleader
Climb a blunt rib then make thin fingery moves up and left to a short crack which is much easier.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
21
Gullible's Travels
From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground. Pleasantly...
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E1 5b
22
Reagent
From the prickly ledge, climb the vague scoop then the fingery wall trending rightwards. Usually dirty and rarely done.
 
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
23
The 3-D Wall
The wall just left of the chimney has good moves (long reaches) though the option of rightward escape rather spoils the effect.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Technical
E2 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

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