Adjacent Areas
< Grotto Slab | Mantelpiece Buttress >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 minsWindy
With the exception of the excellent Rugosity Crack, this section has little in the way of real classics. Despite this, most of the routes are worth a few minutes of your time and given its location at this end of the crag the popularity of the area should be assured. Guidebook page 185.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Little Ernie 8m. Start on the left and trend right across the buttress via ledges to reach easy ground. 1 user comment | S 4a | |
2 |
Big Chris 8m. The centre of the face starting down and right is followed via a thin crack to a tricky finale using the bottom-like... 1 user comment | HVS 5a | |
3 |
In Earnest 10m. The pleasant arete of the bay by laybacking. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
4 |
Recess Wall 10m. The left slanting groove in the recess using glossy holds and side-stepping a bevy of bulges to a tricky last move. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HVD |
5 |
Right Wall Route 10m. Start as for Recess Wall but follow the right-trending flakes to a crack that splits the right-hand edge of the capping... 4 user comments | 1 Stars | HVD |
6 |
Randolf Cheerleader 10m. Climb a blunt rib then make thin fingery moves up and left to a short crack which is much easier. | Technical Crimpy | E3 6a |
7 |
Gullible's Travels 10m. From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground.... 10 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E1 5b |
8 |
Al 10m. From the prickly ledge, climb the vague scoop then the fingery wall trending to the right. Usually dirty and rarely done. | Crimpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
9 |
The 3-D Wall 8m. The wall to the left of the black chimney has good moves (long reaches) though the option of rightward escape rather spoils... 1 user comment | Reachy Technical | E2 6a |
10 |
Black Chimney 8m. The dark rift behind the tower is a good introduction to that kind of thing as long as you aren’t too claustrophobic. 2 user comments | M | |
11 |
South Sea Charmer 10m. Start up Rugosity Crack but step out on to the hanging left arete at the earliest opportunity and finish up this. 2 user comments | HVS 5b | |
12 |
Rugosity Crack 10m. The prominent thin seam which splits the slender tower is a little cracker. Climb to a ledge then finger jam the central... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5b |
13 |
Niche Wall Direct 10m. Pleasant and well protected. Climb the awkward chimney crack to the niche then take the steep continuation finger crack... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
14 |
Cristiana Swing 10m. Climb the wide central crack to the ledge then move right to finish up the next route. Also known as Niche Wall. | S 4a | |
15 |
Nicheless Climb 10m. Mantelshelf onto a flat ledge then climb the awkward wide crack above. Laybacking is probably the easiest way into it. 3 user comments | HS 4b | |
