Rugosity Crack

Adjacent Areas
< Grotto Slab  |  Mantelpiece Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

With the exception of the excellent Rugosity Crack, this section has little in the way of real classics. Despite this, most of the routes are worth a few minutes of your time and given its location at this end of the crag the popularity of the area should be assured.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Little Ernie
8m. Start on the left and trend right across the buttress via ledges to reach easy ground.
1 user comment
 S 4a
2
Big Chris
8m. The centre of the face starting down and right is followed via a thin crack to a tricky finale using the bottom-like...
1 user comment
 HVS 5a
3
In Earnest
10m. The pleasant arete of the bay by laybacking.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
4
Recess Wall
10m. The left slanting groove in the recess using glossy holds and side-stepping a bevy of bulges to a tricky last move.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVD
5
Right Wall Route
10m. Start as for Recess Wall but follow the right-trending flakes to a crack that splits the right-hand edge of the capping...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
6
Randolf Cheerleader
10m. Climb a blunt rib then make thin fingery moves up and left to a short crack which is much easier.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
7
Gullible's Travels
10m. From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground....
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E1 5b
8
Al
10m. From the prickly ledge, climb the vague scoop then the fingery wall trending to the right. Usually dirty and rarely done.
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
9
The 3-D Wall
8m. The wall to the left of the black chimney has good moves (long reaches) though the option of rightward escape rather spoils...
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Technical
E2 6a
10
Black Chimney
8m. The dark rift behind the tower is a good introduction to that kind of thing as long as you arenít too claustrophobic.
2 user comments
 M
11
South Sea Charmer
10m. Start up Rugosity Crack but step out on to the hanging left arete at the earliest opportunity and finish up this.
2 user comments
 HVS 5b
12
Rugosity Crack
10m. The prominent thin seam which splits the slender tower is a little cracker. Climb to a ledge then finger jam the central...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5b
13
Niche Wall Direct
10m. Pleasant and well protected. Climb the awkward chimney crack to the niche then take the steep continuation finger crack...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
14
Cristiana Swing
10m. Climb the wide central crack to the ledge then move right to finish up the next route. Also known as Niche Wall.
 S 4a
15
Nicheless Climb
10m. Mantelshelf onto a flat ledge then climb the awkward wide crack above. Laybacking is probably the easiest way into it.
3 user comments
 HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

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