Adjacent Areas
< None | Camel's Head Buttress >
Trad
No sun
Uphill
40 minsWindy
The left-hand side of the crag consists of a series of small blocky buttresses with a few good routes. Belays above the rocks, especially the left-hand side, are tricky to fine - care required.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Wilderness Gully East 150m. To the east (left) of the cliff is a long gully that runs all the way from the Chew Brook in the bottom, to the crest of... 4 user comments | 2 Stars | M |
2 |
Suspicion Arete 8m. Clean-cut left-hand arete of the face on small holds gives a pleasant and clean pitch. | 1 Stars Rounded | VS 4b |
3 |
'Aard Vark 10m. The next arete has technical start a thrilling upper section. You won't spend much time looking for the gear! | 1 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
4 |
Wildebeest 12m. The right arete of the tiered-buttress gives a great pitch with difficult moves to pass the central roof. Finish slightly... | 2 Stars | E3 6a |
5 |
Mac's Chimney 10m. The deeply recess rift is a grubby struggle - even when dry - and it usually isn't!. | VD | |
6 |
Huggis's Route 12m. Climb the juggy rib right of the chimney to a ledge atop a huge block, then continue up the tricky slab to easier ground. | S 4a | |
7 |
Flake Groove Traverse 18m. The best lower grade route on the cliff. Climb the awkward corner to the big overhang then traverse daintily leftwards to... | 2 Stars | S 4a |
8 |
Flake Groove 12m. Start as for the previous climb but side-step the roof rightwards and finish up the groove above. | 1 Stars | VD |
9 |
Sans Pic Arete 12m. The pleasant clean-cut arete is approached from the right and gives good open climbing. Avoiding the previous routes is... | 1 Stars | S 4a |
10 |
It Hurts 12m. The 'almost impossible wall' (1988 guide) is climbed by dynamic moves between poor slopers and is said to be completely... | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy Fluttery | E7 7a |
11 |
Winters Tale 12m. The green wall is started on the left until it is possible to teeter out right. Finish precariously up the wall. | HVS 5a | |
12 |
Caution Crack 12m. Climb the right-slanting crack with the wider upper section being a mite awkward. | 1 Stars | S 4a |
13 |
Escape 14m. Climb flakes up the groove below to below the roof then traverse right to access the wide crack behind the buttress.... | S 4a | |
14 |
Let's get Killed 12m. The roof and very sketchy face above climbed on extremely dubious death pebbles. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E6 6b |