Flake Groove Traverse

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Camel's Head Buttress >

Trad
No sun
Uphill
40 mins

The left-hand side of the crag consists of a series of small blocky buttresses with a few good routes. Belays above the rocks, especially the left-hand side, are tricky to fine - care required.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Wilderness Gully East
150m. To the east (left) of the cliff is a long gully that runs all the way from the Chew Brook in the bottom, to the crest of...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
M
2
Suspicion Arete
8m. Clean-cut left-hand arete of the face on small holds gives a pleasant and clean pitch.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4b
3
'Aard Vark
10m. The next arete has technical start a thrilling upper section. You won't spend much time looking for the gear!
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
4
Wildebeest
12m. The right arete of the tiered-buttress gives a great pitch with difficult moves to pass the central roof. Finish slightly...
 
2 Stars
E3 6a
5
Mac's Chimney
10m. The deeply recess rift is a grubby struggle - even when dry - and it usually isn't!.
 VD
6
Huggis's Route
12m. Climb the juggy rib right of the chimney to a ledge atop a huge block, then continue up the tricky slab to easier ground.
 S 4a
7
Flake Groove Traverse
18m. The best lower grade route on the cliff. Climb the awkward corner to the big overhang then traverse daintily leftwards to...
 
2 Stars
S 4a
8
Flake Groove
12m. Start as for the previous climb but side-step the roof rightwards and finish up the groove above.
 
1 Stars
VD
9
Sans Pic Arete
12m. The pleasant clean-cut arete is approached from the right and gives good open climbing. Avoiding the previous routes is...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
10
It Hurts
12m. The 'almost impossible wall' (1988 guide) is climbed by dynamic moves between poor slopers and is said to be completely...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 7a
11
Winters Tale
12m. The green wall is started on the left until it is possible to teeter out right. Finish precariously up the wall.
 HVS 5a
12
Caution Crack
12m. Climb the right-slanting crack with the wider upper section being a mite awkward.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
13
Escape
14m. Climb flakes up the groove below to below the roof then traverse right to access the wide crack behind the buttress....
 S 4a
14
Let's get Killed
12m. The roof and very sketchy face above climbed on extremely dubious death pebbles.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For WILDERNESS ROCKS

    Wilderness Gully East
    "Nice way to get to the crag or as part of a fell run, excellent in any condition..." 13/Mar

    Wilderness Gully East
    "Did it in bone dry conditions and it was a very pleasant but easy scramble with ..." 30/May

    Mutants can be Nice
    "perhaps you guide book writers should do some research before you describe route..." 06/Jan

    Wilderness Gully East
    "An excellent route for all seasons. Good fun when dry, running at full spate or ..." 05/Nov

    Let's get Killed
    "Definately E7 : Easy for 6b, but you have to be very careful about how hard you ..." 29/May

    Wilderness Gully East
    "my first ever peak climb due to the soft weather but fantastic fun everyone shou..." 05/Mar

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