Camel's Head Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Flake Groove Traverse  |  Lone Buttress >

Trad
No sun
40 mins
Uphill

The right-hand buttress is identified by the jutting block of the camelís head. It has a couple of worthwhile crack climbs but like most of the rock here could do with a bit more traffic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Camel's Arete
8m. The left-hand arete of the face is climbed by laybacking on its left-hand side and is delicate throughout. The upper...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
2
Half Way Chimney
8m. The narrow chimney/wide crack gives awkward jamming. It is only possible to get halfway into it.
 HS 4b
3
Oasis Crack
10m. A crisp jamming-crack which is worth doing. It is possible to finish up the camel's head if required.
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
4
Mutants can be Nice
10m. Climb the blank wall trending right on a line of small holds. Technical and harrowing. Escape off left at the top.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
5
Palm Crack
16m. Enter the right-trending crack with difficulty and at its top trend left to bypass the overhangs. Sadly this is becoming...
 HVS 5a
6
Indomitable
12m. Climb the main groove to a rest below the narrow overhangs. Then tiptoe out right to reach easier ground.
 HS 4c
7
The Graceland
12m. Climb the front of the buttress passing a small roof to reach the ledges. Pull up and hand-traverse the shelf leftwards...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E3 5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For WILDERNESS ROCKS

    Wilderness Gully East
    "Nice way to get to the crag or as part of a fell run, excellent in any condition..." 13/Mar

    Wilderness Gully East
    "Did it in bone dry conditions and it was a very pleasant but easy scramble with ..." 30/May

    Mutants can be Nice
    "perhaps you guide book writers should do some research before you describe route..." 06/Jan

    Wilderness Gully East
    "An excellent route for all seasons. Good fun when dry, running at full spate or ..." 05/Nov

    Let's get Killed
    "Definately E7 : Easy for 6b, but you have to be very careful about how hard you ..." 29/May

    Wilderness Gully East
    "my first ever peak climb due to the soft weather but fantastic fun everyone shou..." 05/Mar

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