Mantelpiece Buttress

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Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

This area feels more like Burbage than Stanage and it is almost always busy with top-ropers and groups because of a good set of short low-grade routes. In amongst the easy stuff are several fine little roof problems which are often soloed.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hoaxer's Crack
8m. The thin and fingery crack just right of the easy chimney.
6 user comments
 
Crimpy
HS 4b
2
Trivial Pursuit
8m. Climb the wall past a suspect flake to a steep finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS 4c
3
Small Crack
8m. The thin crack has some solid jams and some slippery footholds but isnít any smaller than its near neighbours.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
4
Ground Glass
8m. A shallow groove is climbed to the tricky wall above.
 
Technical
VS 4c
5
Plate Glass
8m. The polished footholds in the centre of the slab lead to easier climbing. Harder for the short.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
HS 4b
6
Carborundum
8m. The right-hand side of the slab has a couple of long reaches and is less polished than the other routes here.
 
Reachy
VS 5a
7
Mantelpiece Crack
8m. The right-slanting crack is nice enough.
3 user comments
 D 4a
8
Mantelpiece Buttress
8m. The left-slanting groove is reached from the right though a more technical Direct Start is also possible at the same grade.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
9
Mantelpiece Hand traverse
10m. Swing along the lowest break to the arete.
1 user comment
 HVS 4c
10
Mental Peace
8m. Powerful moves through stacked roofs to a hard exit.
 
Strong
Rounded
E2 5c
11
Mantelpiece Buttress Direct
8m. 'Haul ass' through the crack in the overhang. A great V0+.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
12
Fragile Mantel
8m. Climb past the right-hand edge of the narrow overhang by a long reach for the ledge. Finish easily.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
VS 5a
13
Mantelpiece Right
8m. The shallow groove in the right edge of the wall is steep.
5 user comments
 HVD
14
Zip Crack
6m. Easily up the short V-groove.
1 user comment
 M
15
Button Wall
6m. Up the pleasant crack right of the nose of the buttress.
 HVD
16
Toggle
6m. The centre of the face; a tricky finish and indifferent landing.
2 user comments
 VS 4b
17
Velcro Arete
6m. The right arete to another rather sticky finish.
1 user comment
 HS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

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