Adjacent Areas
< Rugosity Crack | Square Buttress and Suzanne >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
10 minsWindy
This area feels more like Burbage than Stanage and it is almost always busy with top-ropers and groups because of a good set of short low-grade routes. In amongst the easy stuff are several fine little roof problems which are often soloed. Guidebook page 186.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Hoaxer's Crack 8m. The thin and fingery crack just right of the easy chimney. 6 user comments | Crimpy | HS 4b |
2 |
Trivial Pursuit 8m. Climb the wall past a suspect flake to a steep finish. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Loose | VS 4c |
3 |
Small Crack 8m. The thin crack has some solid jams and some slippery footholds but isn’t any smaller than its near neighbours. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VD |
4 |
Ground Glass 8m. A shallow groove is climbed to the tricky wall above. | Technical | VS 4c |
5 |
Plate Glass 8m. The polished footholds in the centre of the slab lead to easier climbing. Harder for the short. 2 user comments | Rounded | HS 4b |
6 |
Carborundum 8m. The right-hand side of the slab has a couple of long reaches and is less polished than the other routes here. | Reachy | VS 5a |
7 |
Mantelpiece Crack 8m. The right-slanting crack is nice enough. 3 user comments | D 4a | |
8 |
Mantelpiece Buttress 8m. The left-slanting groove is reached from the right though a more technical Direct Start is also possible at the same grade. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | D |
9 |
Mantelpiece Hand traverse 10m. Swing along the lowest break to the arete. 1 user comment | HVS 4c | |
10 |
Mental Peace 8m. Powerful moves through stacked roofs to a hard exit. | Strong Rounded | E2 5c |
11 |
Mantelpiece Buttress Direct 8m. 'Haul ass' through the crack in the overhang. A great V0+. 7 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
12 |
Fragile Mantel 8m. Climb past the right-hand edge of the narrow overhang by a long reach for the ledge. Finish easily. 2 user comments | Reachy | VS 5a |
13 |
Mantelpiece Right 8m. The shallow groove in the right edge of the wall is steep. 5 user comments | HVD | |
14 |
Zip Crack 6m. Easily up the short V-groove. 1 user comment | M | |
15 |
Button Wall 6m. Up the pleasant crack right of the nose of the buttress. | HVD | |
16 |
Toggle 6m. The centre of the face; a tricky finish and indifferent landing. 2 user comments | VS 4b | |
17 |
Velcro Arete 6m. The right arete to another rather sticky finish. 1 user comment | HS 4c | |
