Mantelpiece Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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This area feels more like Burbage than Stanage and it is often busy with top-ropers and groups because of a good set of short low-grade routes that are so close to the road. In amongst the easy stuff are several fine little roof problems which are often soloed.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Black Chimney
The dark rift behind the tower is a struggle, especially for the fuller figure.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
Diff
2
South Sea Charmer
The hanging left arete is gained from Rugosity Crack.
2 user comments
 HVS
3
Rugosity Crack
The thin seam splitting the tower is great. Climb to a ledge then finger-jam the central section to a steep finish on flat...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
4
Niche Wall Direct
Climb the awkward chimney crack to the niche, then take the steep continuation finger-crack above on mostly good holds.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
5
The Cristiana Swing
Climb the wide central crack to the ledge then move right to finish up the next route. Also known as 'Niche Wall".
 
1 Stars
S
6
Nicheless Climb
Mantelshelf onto a flat ledge then climb the awkward wide crack above. Laybacking is probably the easiest way into it.
3 user comments
 
Graunchy
HS
7
Nicheless Climb Direct
The wall just right is a harder variant.
1 user comment
 HS
8
East Chimney
The rift just right is pretty soft and mostly used as a descent.
 M
9
Right Edge
The right edge leads to a ledge. Finish up the short wall.
1 user comment
 S
10
Hoaxer's Crack
The thin and fingery crack just right of the easy chimney.
6 user comments
 HS
11
Trivial Pursuit
Climb the wall past a suspect flake to a tricky finish. Also known as Blunt Arete.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS
12
Small Crack
The short crack has solid jams and slippery footholds.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
13
Ground Glass
A shallow groove is climbed to the tricky wall above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
14
Plate Glass Slab
The polished footholds in the centre of the slab lead past poor runners to easier climbing. Bold and harder for the short.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
15
Carborundum
The right side of the slab has a couple of long reaches but is less polished than the other routes here.
 VS
16
Mantelpiece Crack
The right-slanting crack is nice enough.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Diff
17
Mantelpiece Buttress
The left-slanting groove is reached from the right though a more technical direct start is also possible.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Diff
18
Mantelpiece Upper Traverse
Traverse the central break right to easy ground round the arete.
1 user comment
 HVS
19
Mantelpiece Hand-Traverse
Swing along the low break to the arete. Tricky for the long-legged.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
20
Mental Peace
Powerful moves through stacked roofs to a hard exit.
 
Strong
E2
21
Mantelpiece Buttress Direct
Haul through the crack in the tip of the overhang. .
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
22
Fragile Mantel
Stretch past the right edge of the narrow overhang. Finish easily.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
23
Mantelpiece Right
The shallow groove in the right edge of the wall is steep.
5 user comments
 HVD
24
Zip Crack
Easily up (or down) the short V-groove.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
25
Button Wall
Up the pleasant crack right of the nose of the buttress.
 HVD
26
Toggle
The centre of the face is steep to a tricky finish.
2 user comments
 VS
27
Velcro Arete
The right arete to another rather sticky finish.
1 user comment
 HS
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    The Mersey Variant
    "It is steep and the top end of 5C but has good hard moves, between good gear, to..." 02/Sep

    Via Roof Route
    "Two highly contrasting pitches: precarious slab climbing - usually on rock that ..." 20/Aug

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

    Inverted V
    "led, forgot how to jam, so pulled up on ledges, great! top L exit." 28/Dec

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