First Quarry

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Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
10 mins
Sheltered

The first quarry reached from the car has some worthwhile crack climbs. The classic pumpy Calamity Crack is especially worthwhile, if somewhat arduous in execution.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Spider Crack
8m. The thin crack just right of the left arete of the quarry to a finish up the proper jamming crack on the right.
 
Technical
HVS 5c
2
Nora Batty
8m. Attack the thinner, finger-shredding crack leading right out to the arete then back left to finish on Spider Crack's solid...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 6a
3
Acarpous
12m. Climb into the recess, pull out right for a breather on the grassy ledge then finish back leftwards up the slanting crack.
 
Pumpy
E2 5b
4
Maquis
12m. Take the steep and pumpy jamming crack to the niche where it joins and finishes as for Acarpous.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
5
Flush Pipe
10m. Climb the tricky arete than make a swift mantel to reach the rest on Maquis. Finish direct up the short-lived crusty...
 E1 5c
6
Gull-wing
14m. Start up the wider left-hand crack then swing left on a line of flat holds to access a steep groove. Climb this past the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
7
Mimosa
12m. Climb the main right-trending crack strenuously passing a useful hole a short distance from the top. Use the thinner...
 
Pumpy
E2 5c
8
Calamity Crack
14m. The thin leaning crack is an uphill struggle on thin-hand jams and fat finger-locks though protection is superb. The old...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
9
Gargantua
14m. Bridge the groove to a niche. Pull out of this into another niche and then escape rightwards. Steep and strenuous.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5b
10
Godzilla
8m. Start up the groove then layback the right-hand side of the arete until a bit of a 'pop' is need to reach the slab. Exit...
 E3 6a
11
Kaptain Klepton
10m. Climb a flake to reach the horizontal jams then climb the blank wall trending right to finish.
 
1 Stars
E1 5c
12
Mickey Thin
12m. Climb to a hanging flake then follow it leftwards to a slim-tips crack. Up this to a mantel and easier finish.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
13
It Only Takes Two to Tango
12m. Climb out of the left side of the grotty recess to reach a narrow ramp then finish direct via thin cracks. Often wet.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
14
Flue Pipe
6m. The hanging crack on the far right is okay though, sadly, escape is too easy an option.
 E1 5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For RUNNING HILL PITS

    Kiss My Arm
    "Disappeared under the grass!" 06/Aug

    Sodom
    "fantastic route, but very strenuous, thought I was going to come off it all the ..." 11/Jul

    Harvest Moon
    "Ancient ring peg needs replacing. There is a new peg on the Right 2006?" 26/Jun

    Scoop de Grace
    "i think ian vickers/gareth parry may have made an ascent/s" 10/Apr

    Spanner Wall
    "What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tec..." 01/Apr

    Scoop de Grace
    "Tall people would avoid many of the moves that Dougie had to do as he came in sl..." 04/Feb

    Swing-up
    "Delightful route, nice bit of exposure :-)" 12/Oct

    Eye-catcher
    "Good start, but the leftward traverse to the ledge seems contrived - better to f..." 31/Jul

    Riddler
    "Really green and harder than 5a." 28/Jul

    Plumb Line
    "A mini-classic that climbs exactly how it looks (and also gets you one of the be..." 12/Jul

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