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Afternoon sun

Level

10 mins

An open aspect and worthwhile routes make this quarry the most popular in the complex. The left-hand wall is the showpiece of the quarry with the clean Spanner Wall attracting most attention. The centre wall faces into the setting sun and the location is tranquil; add this to the other sections of the quarry and the place is well worth a visit. The final wall lies beyond a grass slope and faces north. It is split by a fine set of cracks most of which are worth doing when in condition and well worth steering clear of when not!

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Tighten Up Yer Nuts 10m. A fiercely-thin finger traverse with a particularly hard move to reach the jugs and a sprint finish. Memorable.	1 Stars Technical Fluttery	E4 6a
2	Iguanodon 10m. Bold and fierce. The blank wall is climbed rightwards by committing moves to better hold where more hard (and even more...	2 Stars Technical Fluttery	E5 6b
3	Folies Bergeres 12m. The first crack right of the main angle gives a short tussle and is especially awkward at the start.		HS 4b
4	Lolita 12m. A precocious little number up the wall and crack.		HS 4b
5	Harvest Moon 12m. Climb into the hanging groove (ancient peg) swing right to another, then make desperate moves to reach good flat holds in... 1 user comment	2 Stars Fluttery	E4 6b
6	The Connection 14m. The obvious link up gives the best way up the wall which is both bold and committing. Replacing the pegs with decent fixed...	3 Stars Technical	E4 6b
7	Spanner Wall 14m. From Dead Dog Crack traverse to the spanner (its base is a bit thin, but threading it is better than nothing) then balance... 4 user comments	2 Stars Fluttery	E2 5b
8	Dead Dog Crack 8m. The left-hand of the cracks that form an inverted Y.	1 Stars	VS 4c
9	Cave Crack 8m. The right-hand arm of the inverted Y.	1 Stars	VS 4c
10	Midsummer 8m. The flaky right arete of the wall starting just to the right.		S 4a
11	Hazy Groove 8m. The deep groove stepping right into its extension to finish.		VD
12	The Cracks 8m. Climb the cracks to an exit left or right.		S 4a
13	Breakdown 8m. The thin crack in the steep slab is pleasantly technical. 1 user comment		HVS 5b
14	Yorick's Crack 10m. The thin right-trending seam is superbly desperate. It was only pegged a few times in antiquity and so, alas, has...	2 Stars Technical	E5 6c
15	Overhanging Chimney 10m. The main groove develops from cracks to a wider rift which leads to a rightward exit over the bulge.		VS 4c
16	Sagittarius Flake 10m. The hairline cracked leads with great difficulty to a final lunge or massive stretch for the top edge.	2 Stars Reachy Technical	E5 6b
17	Scoop de Grace 12m. A stunningly technical wall leads into the precarious scoop which is followed rightwards to easy ground. The tall may find... 5 user comments	3 Stars Reachy Technical	E5 7a
18	Phaestus 8m. 'Walk' up the ramp leftwards and climb the blunt arete into evermore harrowing territory and a tough exit above a big drop. 5 user comments	1 Stars Fluttery	E5 5c
19	Windbreaker 6m. From the toe of the ramp blast up the centre of the 'blank' slab on a continuously surprising set of holds.	1 Stars Crimpy	E2 5b
20	Cochybondhu 6m. The rib on the right-hand side of the slab gives precarious laybacking; once committed do or fly!	1 Stars	E2 5c
21	Kneepad 6m. The awkward groove is ... awkward! Knees might well help. 1 user comment		HVS 5b
22	Crosstie 12m. Mantel onto the tip of the slab with difficulty then trend right until a precarious move accesses the a V-groove of...	Technical	VS 5a
23	Pipe Spanner 8m. Climb the centre of the slab to a hard sloping exit.	1 Stars Technical	E1 5c
24	Pipe Inspector 10m. Start as for Pipe Spanner but move right then climb direct to a hard exit balancing up into the tiny left-facing groove.		E3 5c
25	Groove-V Baby 10m. Follow the groove on the right-hand side of the slab (small wires) as it leads pleasantly to a rightward exit.	1 Stars	VS 4c
26	Dusty Arete 12m. The ledgy wall is climbed close to the arete. It has a useful iron bar runner and not too much else in the way of gear.	1 Stars	D
27	William the Conkerer 12m. Climb the wall 2m right of the grotty groove (Sardonicous HVS 5b). It is often rather green hence its original moniker.		E1 5b
28	Paradise Crack 12m. The first crack in the long north-facing wall is not a patch on its Stanage namesake and is probably a grade harder!		HS 4b
29	Cameo 12m. The central crack of the trio is a little less of a gem than its Wilton twin though still worth doing when clean.		VS 4c
30	Riddler 12m. The right-hand crack is the pick of the trio. Passing the mid-height niche is the crux though the interest is well... 1 user comment	1 Stars	HVS 5a
31	Pantagruel 12m. The parallel cracks give gruelling jamming that might well leave you panting. Starting up the right and finishing up the... 1 user comment	1 Stars Pumpy	HVS 5a
32	Mangled Digit 14m. The thin wiggling crack is hard on the fingers and gives reachy moves between sketchy jams. Protection is excellent.	2 Stars Crimpy	E3 6a
33	Plumb Line 14m. An excellent straight jamming rack swallows all the gear you can carry. Despite the picture in the 1988 Moorland Grit... 5 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	VS 4c
34	Sodom 12m. Boulder up the wall to reach the left-hand crack which gives pleasant jamming. It can also be approached from the next... 2 user comments	2 Stars Technical	HVS 5c
35	Gomorrah 12m. The right-hand crack gives good finger jamming on solid lockers with the expected quality of runner. 3 user comments	1 Stars Crimpy	E1 5b
36	Cosmic Enforcer 6m. From the bank on the right swing left and climb the short but exposed left-hand side. A runner up and right is a good idea... 1 user comment	Reachy Fluttery	E2 5c
37	Unctious 4m. A short wall with a fingery start and a myriad harder variations for those of a bouldering bent. 1 user comment	Technical Crimpy	S 4c

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