Second Quarry

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Afternoon sun
10 mins
Level
Sheltered

An open aspect and worthwhile routes make this quarry the most popular in the complex. The left-hand wall is the showpiece of the quarry with the clean Spanner Wall attracting most attention. The centre wall faces into the setting sun and the location is tranquil; add this to the other sections of the quarry and the place is well worth a visit. The final wall lies beyond a grass slope and faces north. It is split by a fine set of cracks most of which are worth doing when in condition and well worth steering clear of when not!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tighten Up Yer Nuts
10m. A fiercely-thin finger traverse with a particularly hard move to reach the jugs and a sprint finish. Memorable.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
2
Iguanodon
10m. Bold and fierce. The blank wall is climbed rightwards by committing moves to better hold where more hard (and even more...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
3
Folies Bergeres
12m. The first crack right of the main angle gives a short tussle and is especially awkward at the start.
 HS 4b
4
Lolita
12m. A precocious little number up the wall and crack.
 HS 4b
5
Harvest Moon
12m. Climb into the hanging groove (ancient peg) swing right to another, then make desperate moves to reach good flat holds in...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6b
6
The Connection
14m. The obvious link up gives the best way up the wall which is both bold and committing. Replacing the pegs with decent fixed...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
7
Spanner Wall
14m. From Dead Dog Crack traverse to the spanner (its base is a bit thin, but threading it is better than nothing) then balance...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
8
Dead Dog Crack
8m. The left-hand of the cracks that form an inverted Y.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
9
Cave Crack
8m. The right-hand arm of the inverted Y.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
10
Midsummer
8m. The flaky right arete of the wall starting just to the right.
 S 4a
11
Hazy Groove
8m. The deep groove stepping right into its extension to finish.
 VD
12
The Cracks
8m. Climb the cracks to an exit left or right.
 S 4a
13
Breakdown
8m. The thin crack in the steep slab is pleasantly technical.
1 user comment
 HVS 5b
14
Yorick's Crack
10m. The thin right-trending seam is superbly desperate. It was only pegged a few times in antiquity and so, alas, has...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
15
Overhanging Chimney
10m. The main groove develops from cracks to a wider rift which leads to a rightward exit over the bulge.
 VS 4c
16
Sagittarius Flake
10m. The hairline cracked leads with great difficulty to a final lunge or massive stretch for the top edge.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E5 6b
17
Scoop de Grace
12m. A stunningly technical wall leads into the precarious scoop which is followed rightwards to easy ground. The tall may find...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E5 7a
18
Phaestus
8m. 'Walk' up the ramp leftwards and climb the blunt arete into evermore harrowing territory and a tough exit above a big drop.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 5c
19
Windbreaker
6m. From the toe of the ramp blast up the centre of the 'blank' slab on a continuously surprising set of holds.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E2 5b
20
Cochybondhu
6m. The rib on the right-hand side of the slab gives precarious laybacking; once committed do or fly!
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
21
Kneepad
6m. The awkward groove is ... awkward! Knees might well help.
1 user comment
 HVS 5b
22
Crosstie
12m. Mantel onto the tip of the slab with difficulty then trend right until a precarious move accesses the a V-groove of...
 
Technical
VS 5a
23
Pipe Spanner
8m. Climb the centre of the slab to a hard sloping exit.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
24
Pipe Inspector
10m. Start as for Pipe Spanner but move right then climb direct to a hard exit balancing up into the tiny left-facing groove.
 E3 5c
25
Groove-V Baby
10m. Follow the groove on the right-hand side of the slab (small wires) as it leads pleasantly to a rightward exit.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
26
Dusty Arete
12m. The ledgy wall is climbed close to the arete. It has a useful iron bar runner and not too much else in the way of gear.
 
1 Stars
D
27
William the Conkerer
12m. Climb the wall 2m right of the grotty groove (Sardonicous HVS 5b). It is often rather green hence its original moniker.
 E1 5b
28
Paradise Crack
12m. The first crack in the long north-facing wall is not a patch on its Stanage namesake and is probably a grade harder!
 HS 4b
29
Cameo
12m. The central crack of the trio is a little less of a gem than its Wilton twin though still worth doing when clean.
 VS 4c
30
Riddler
12m. The right-hand crack is the pick of the trio. Passing the mid-height niche is the crux though the interest is well...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
31
Pantagruel
12m. The parallel cracks give gruelling jamming that might well leave you panting. Starting up the right and finishing up the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
32
Mangled Digit
14m. The thin wiggling crack is hard on the fingers and gives reachy moves between sketchy jams. Protection is excellent.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E3 6a
33
Plumb Line
14m. An excellent straight jamming rack swallows all the gear you can carry. Despite the picture in the 1988 Moorland Grit...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
34
Sodom
12m. Boulder up the wall to reach the left-hand crack which gives pleasant jamming. It can also be approached from the next...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5c
35
Gomorrah
12m. The right-hand crack gives good finger jamming on solid lockers with the expected quality of runner.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
36
Cosmic Enforcer
6m. From the bank on the right swing left and climb the short but exposed left-hand side. A runner up and right is a good idea...
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5c
37
Unctious
4m. A short wall with a fingery start and a myriad harder variations for those of a bouldering bent.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
S 4c
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  • Latest Comments

    For RUNNING HILL PITS

    Kiss My Arm
    "Disappeared under the grass!" 06/Aug

    Sodom
    "fantastic route, but very strenuous, thought I was going to come off it all the ..." 11/Jul

    Harvest Moon
    "Ancient ring peg needs replacing. There is a new peg on the Right 2006?" 26/Jun

    Scoop de Grace
    "i think ian vickers/gareth parry may have made an ascent/s" 10/Apr

    Spanner Wall
    "What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tec..." 01/Apr

    Scoop de Grace
    "Tall people would avoid many of the moves that Dougie had to do as he came in sl..." 04/Feb

    Swing-up
    "Delightful route, nice bit of exposure :-)" 12/Oct

    Eye-catcher
    "Good start, but the leftward traverse to the ledge seems contrived - better to f..." 31/Jul

    Riddler
    "Really green and harder than 5a." 28/Jul

    Plumb Line
    "A mini-classic that climbs exactly how it looks (and also gets you one of the be..." 12/Jul

    Unctious
    "Nice little wall, various problems, good fun." 24/Feb

    Scoop de Grace
    "Got upto the last "decent" hold below the scoup, that was after three ..." 23/Jan

    Plumb Line
    "Naah, the cams are great. Sustained." 08/Sep

    Spanner Wall
    "Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (w..." 05/Sep

    Spanner Wall
    "It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves acr..." 05/Sep

    Weaver's Wall
    "anyone with a friend half might disagree" 31/Aug

    Maquis
    "The first crack I've HAD to fully tape my hand for. Well protected, definitel..." 01/Aug

    Gomorrah
    "H'mmmm not my forte, finger jams, however I did find this a tad tricky for easy ..." 09/Jul

    Gargantua
    "The hardest E1 I've ever done! Fell off. Very sustained. Overhangs a fair bit. ..." 29/Jun

    Gull-wing
    "Took a fall from near the top when a jug pealed off in my hand! Luckily the cruc..." 23/Apr

    Breakdown
    "Nice, short n'sweet technical problem. Addictive." 09/Apr

    Scoop de Grace
    "Get yourself training hard on the resin and have a crack at it when you're back ..." 10/Feb

    Scoop de Grace
    "How??? Have stood looking at the start for some years now but one word still kee..." 10/Feb

    Phaestus
    "The consequences of fluffing the final hard move probably warrents the E5, as yo..." 10/Sep

    Kneepad
    "A total non route...whyohwhyohwhy is this in?!?" 16/Jul

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