Adjacent Areas
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Evening sun
Uphill
15 minsWindy
At the tallest part of the cliff a wide ledge runs across the upper section of the crag from the central Clashooks Gully. This ledge is a popular hang out for local youth but also has a few steep and nasty climbs on compact black rock.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Hemingway's Wall 6m. Start above a boulder in the gully and climb the bulging wall using a rounded shelf. Starting just right is 6a. | 2 Stars Rounded | E3 5c |
2 |
Late-nite Greenhaigh 6m. Steep moves on horizontal holds up the bulging wall. | 2 Stars Strong | E3 6a |
3 |
The Missing Font 6m. An eliminate with thin moves on flakes. | Technical Crimpy | ?? 5c |
4 |
Senile Saunter 9m. Start up West Wall Chimney and traverse left to reach the hanging flake/corner. The direct start is 5c. | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
5 |
West Wall Chimney 7m. The chimney has a steep start. At the top step left onto the wall for an easier finish. | 1 Stars Fluttery | VD |
6 |
Windy Corner 12m. From a short way up West Wall Chimney, traverse rightwards in a fine and exposed position. Keep going until you can walk... | 1 Stars | VD |
7 |
Windy Corner Nose Finish 7m. Finish up the wall above a ledge on the previous route. | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
8 |
Diopera 7m. Climb the edge of the buttress, through a weakness just left of the bigger roofs. | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
9 |
Eroica 7m. The first route through the roofs has some friable holds. | HVS 5a | |
10 |
Erotica 7m. More dodgy rock. Climb the scoop and pockets just right of Eroica. Best set a rope up first! | ?? 6b | |
11 |
Coward of the County 8m. The roofs get bigger and the quality picks up. Make a hard move to gain a good hold on the right. Move back left and finish... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
12 |
Spooky 8m. Start 4m right of Coward. Make a long reach from a small pocket to gain some good holds. Move left and continue up the wall... | 1 Stars Reachy Pumpy | E5 6b |
13 |
Brandenburg Wall 10m. A great route in a spectacular position. Start down and right of the flakes on the upper wall. Climb up to the roof then... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E4 5c |
14 |
Brandenburg Wall Direct 8m. The direct start is a serious proposition, even to top-rope! Make a big reach from some small pockets to gain a little... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Fluttery | ?? 6c |
15 |
Stingray 8m. A direct finish to Brandenburg Wall on small holds. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6a |
16 |
The Mangler 8m. A good old-fashioned roof crack which succumbs to a typical struggle. Those with an aversion to jamming can use finger... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E3 6a |
17 |
Gorilla Wall 10m. Start as for The Mangler but traverse right along a flake until you can pull over onto the upper wall. | 1 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
18 |
Gorilla Wall Direct 8m. The direct start begins at big holds about 2m to the right. | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 5c |