Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 minsWindy
A steep buttress seamed by diagonal cracks and home to the biggest concentration of hard routes on the cliff. Fortunately the recent new routers didn’t follow on from Len Millsom’s idea and create finishing holds, so several of the climbs have desperate final sequences - truly exquisite! It is also a popular area with boulderers mainly because of the superb Hamper's Hang. Guidebook page 189.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Frigid Witch 6m. The steep wall on the left leads to a hard exit. | Rounded | HVS 5b |
2 |
Eminence Grise 6m. Climb the bottomless crack then tackle the jutting roof. | Rounded | E2 6a |
3 |
Apparent North 12m. Follow the crack to the roof before moving round onto the front face. The expected belly-flop finish is made much easier... | 1 Stars Pumpy Rounded | HVS 5b |
4 |
Led a Dance 20m. Start as for Apparent North but continue the pumpy traverse on jams all the way to the right arete - mega! | 1 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
5 |
Hamper's Hang A superb traverse starting at the back of the cut-away on the left and following the break and sloping ledge (the true Hamper's... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Rounded | V6 6b |
6 |
Skinless Wonder 10m. Start up a small hanging arete at the left-hand edge of the face and make a hard move on undercuts to reach the break of... | 2 Stars Technical Rounded | E6 6c |
7 |
Stanage Without Oxygen 10m. The easiest hard route on this buttress, pre-dating the others by 10 years; it will still leave you breathless. Climb the... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Rounded | E5 6c |
8 |
Little Women 10m. A high-quality modern desperate. Gain the shelf, place Friend runners in the highest horizontal break, then head up and... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Rounded | E7 7a |
9 |
Hamper's Direct Tackle the sloping roof from a low start, to a hard mantel. | 1 Stars Strong Crimpy | V6 6b |
10 |
Groove is in the Heart 10m. A series of technical and fingery moves through the stacked overlaps in the scoop to yet another rounded finish. Only led... | 3 Stars Rounded | E7 7a |
11 |
Black Car Burning 10m. An arduous climb up the vertical face on the right. Start under the final scoop of Groove is in the Heart and trend right... | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | E7 6c |
12 |
Magnetic North 10m. Climb the arete (a nice V2) and move right to a jutting ledge. At the roof swing back left to a difficult exit. | 1 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
13 |
True North 10m. From the large boulder jammed in the gully, climb up the right-hand side of the blunt arete on the left, finishing up a... | Reachy | VS 4c |
14 |
Mating Toads 6m. The rib is a delightful little problem. Try it with and without the right-hand arete for maximum enjoyment. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | V2 5c |
15 |
Massacre 6m. A pumpy leftwards hand traverse to a rapid exit. The start is a V1 problem. 2 user comments | Pumpy | E1 5b |
