Apparent North Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
5 mins
Uphill

A steep buttress seamed by diagonal cracks and home to the biggest concentration of hard routes on the cliff. Fortunately the recent new routers didnít follow on from Len Millsomís idea and create finishing holds, so several of the climbs have desperate final sequences - truly exquisite! It is also a popular area with boulderers mainly because of the superb Hamper's Hang.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Frigid Witch
6m. The steep wall on the left leads to a hard exit.
 
Rounded
HVS 5b
2
Eminence Grise
6m. Climb the bottomless crack then tackle the jutting roof.
 
Rounded
E2 6a
3
Apparent North
12m. Follow the crack to the roof before moving round onto the front face. The expected belly-flop finish is made much easier...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
HVS 5b
4
Led a Dance
20m. Start as for Apparent North but continue the pumpy traverse on jams all the way to the right arete - mega!
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
5
Hamper's Hang
A superb traverse starting at the back of the cut-away on the left and following the break and sloping ledge (the true Hamper's...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
V6 7A
6
Skinless Wonder
10m. Start up a small hanging arete at the left-hand edge of the face and make a hard move on undercuts to reach the break of...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E6 6c
7
Stanage Without Oxygen
10m. The easiest hard route on this buttress, pre-dating the others by 10 years; it will still leave you breathless. Climb the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
E5 6c
8
Little Women
10m. A high-quality modern desperate. Gain the shelf, place Friend runners in the highest horizontal break, then head up and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Rounded
E7 7a
9
Hamper's Direct
Tackle the sloping roof from a low start, to a hard mantel.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
V6 7A
10
Groove is in the Heart
10m. A series of technical and fingery moves through the stacked overlaps in the scoop to yet another rounded finish. Only led...
 
3 Stars
Rounded
E7 7a
11
Black Car Burning
10m. An arduous climb up the vertical face on the right. Start under the final scoop of Groove is in the Heart and trend right...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E7 6c
12
Magnetic North
10m. Climb the arete (a nice V2) and move right to a jutting ledge. At the roof swing back left to a difficult exit.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
13
True North
10m. From the large boulder jammed in the gully, climb up the right-hand side of the blunt arete on the left, finishing up a...
 
Reachy
VS 4c
14
Mating Toads
6m. The rib is a delightful little problem. Try it with and without the right-hand arete for maximum enjoyment.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
V2 5c
15
Massacre
6m. A pumpy leftwards hand traverse to a rapid exit. The start is a V1 problem.
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

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