Apparent North

Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
5 mins
Uphill
Windy

The steep buttress seamed by diagonal overlaps is home to a concentration of hard routes. Recent new routers didn't follow Len Millsom's idea of creating finishing holds, so several of the climbs have desperate exits. Smaller walls to either side offer some short easy climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sleazy Jamming
A short crack on the left of the wall.
1 user comment
 S
2
Easy Walling
The short narrow wall on the left has a tough start.
1 user comment
 
Technical
f5+
3
Easy Jamming
A short-lived crack is worth the effort.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVD
4
Trainer Failure
The pumpy arete is technical and reachy.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
5
The Real 20-foot Crack
The compelling crack is a decent test of your jamming.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
6
The Shiznit
Attack the left side of the face by a couple of unlikely dynos.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Dyno
f7A
7
Twin Cam
Desperately climb the right side of the face via a chipped flake.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f7A
8
Scary Canary
Balance up the right arete of the wall.
 
Technical
HVS
9
Minah Variation
The right wall from the higher ledge.
 
1 Stars
Strong
f6C
10
My Crazy Head
The superb little arete on its left-hand side. Easier on the right.
 
2 Stars
Technical
f6B
11
Frigid Witch
The steep wall on the left leads to a hard exit.
 HVS
12
Eminence Grise
Climb the bottomless crack then tackle the jutting roof.
 E2
13
Apparent North
Follow the short crack to its end then move round onto the front face. The expected belly-flop finish is made much easier by a...
 
1 Stars
HVS
14
Lead a Dance
Start as for Apparent North but continue the pumpy traverse on jams all the way to the right arete - mega!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1
15
Hamper's Hang
A superb traverse starting at the back of the cut-away on the left and following the break and sloping ledge (the true Hamper's...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
f7A
16
Skinless Wonder
Start up the small hanging arete and make a hard move on undercuts to the break of Apparent North. A hideous shelving exit...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
17
Stanage Without Oxygen
The easiest hard route here pre-dates the others by a decade - it will still leave you breathless! Climb the left side of the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E5
18
Little Women
A high-quality modern desperate. Gain the shelf, place cams in the highest break, then head up and right using a series of poor...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7
19
Hamper's Direct
Tackle the sloping roof from a low start, to a hard mantel.
 
1 Stars
Strong
f7A
20
Groove is in the Heart
Technical and fingery moves through the stacked overlaps in the scoop to another rounded finish. Only led with pre-placed RPs.
 
3 Stars
E7
21
Black Car Burning
An arduous climb up the vertical face on the right. Start under the final scoop of Groove is in the Heart and trend right to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E7
22
Magnetic North
Climb the arete (a nice problem ) and move right to a jutting ledge. At the roof swing back left to a difficult exit.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
23
True North
From the large boulder jammed in the gully, climb up the right-hand side of the blunt arete on the left, finishing up a short...
 VS
24
Mating Toads
The delicate rib is more involving than first acquaintance might suggest.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f5+
25
Massacre
A pumpy hand-traverse to a rapid exit.
2 user comments
 E1
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Bobsnob
    "E1 5a my arse! E3 5b as least. Some great moves going up for the top little righ..." 30/Mar

    Via Roof Route
    "Two highly contrasting pitches: precarious slab climbing - usually on rock that ..." 20/Aug

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

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