Charlie's Overhang Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
2 mins
Uphill

The first buttress encountered presents an impressive overhang which sets the heart racing of many a wary boulderer. The routes here tend to be a little high to be given V grades but they are usually soloed. Further right is the jutting Ripple Buttress and Hazel Barn to the right.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Leather Joy Boys
Climb steeply to the break then traverse along it rightwards on knuckle-grinding jams. Probably nearer E4 than V7!
1 user comment
 
Strong
Pumpy
V7 7A+
2
Charlie's Overhang
6m. A brilliant little mini-route. Climb to the lip and contemplate the next move; then reverse to the ground ... or push on!...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
3
Newstones Chimney
6m. The awkward chimney. Starting up the crack on the left is worth VDiff.
 D
4
Moonshine
6m. The middle of the wall through a bevy of bulges.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5c
5
Praying Mantle
6m. Swarm on to the nose and finish warily through the shelving scoop above. Used to be good value at 4c!
2 user comments
 HVS 5b
6
Ripple
The super line of finger-holds is longer and harder than it looks.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
V4 6B
7
Martin's Traverse
The lower line is quite a bit easier.
 
1 Stars
V1 5b
8
Hazel Brow Crack
8m. Climb the juggy groove to bulges which are passed by moving leftwards.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
9
Hazel Barn
8m. The shallow groove (quality holds) leads to a steeper exit.
 
1 Stars
VD
10
Hazel Groove
8m. Gain the short groove in the side-wall via an eliminate problem start.
 
Technical
Crimpy
V4 6B
11
Nutmeg
8m. Climb past the solid flake onto the wall above.
 HS 4b
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  • Latest Comments

    For NEWSTONES

    Charlie's Overhang
    "Be careful if your thinking of using ropes and gear, a decent hold has been snap..." 02/Aug

    Trepidation
    "E3 5c in anything but sizzling summer heat. Does feel scary though for something..." 02/Jan

    The Witch
    "good thread near the start, but not much more gear placements on it. The upper s..." 09/Sep

    Praying Mantle
    "Indeed, the sit-start boulder problem is as good as the route... Try this one f..." 02/Jun

    The Vixen
    "There's a secret hand hold which makes cranking it easy. 2 moves, and it's in th..." 23/Mar

    Sly Corner
    "A good problem exists right of this from the two crimps up to a dish around font..." 20/Mar

    Ripple
    "OK I admit it I named the line and claim the first ascent,done circa 1977/8.Did ..." 19/Sep

    Praying Mantle
    "Worth adding the sit-start at Font 6c. H.D." 09/Aug

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