Adjacent Areas
< None | Sly Buttress Area >
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill
2 minsWindy
The first buttress encountered presents an impressive overhang which sets the heart racing of many a wary boulderer. The routes here tend to be a little high to be given ‘V’ grades but they are usually soloed. Further right is the jutting Ripple Buttress and Hazel Barn to the right. Guidebook page 104.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Leather Joy Boys Climb steeply to the break then traverse along it rightwards on knuckle-grinding jams. Probably nearer E4 than V7! 1 user comment | Strong Pumpy | V7 6c |
2 |
Charlie's Overhang 6m. A brilliant little mini-route. Climb to the lip and contemplate the next move; then reverse to the ground ... or push on!... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Fluttery | E2 5c |
3 |
Newstones Chimney 6m. The awkward chimney. Starting up the crack on the left is worth VDiff. | D | |
4 |
Moonshine 6m. The middle of the wall through a bevy of bulges. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded | HVS 5c |
5 |
Praying Mantle 6m. Swarm on to the nose and finish warily through the shelving scoop above. Used to be good value at 4c! 2 user comments | HVS 5b | |
6 |
Ripple The super line of finger-holds is longer and harder than it looks. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | V4 6a |
7 |
Martin's Traverse The lower line is quite a bit easier. | 1 Stars | V1 5b |
8 |
Hazel Brow Crack 8m. Climb the juggy groove to bulges which are passed by moving leftwards. | 1 Stars | S 4a |
9 |
Hazel Barn 8m. The shallow groove (quality holds) leads to a steeper exit. | 1 Stars | VD |
10 |
Hazel Groove 8m. Gain the short groove in the side-wall via an eliminate problem start. | Technical Crimpy | V4 6a |
11 |
Nutmeg 8m. Climb past the solid flake onto the wall above. | HS 4b | |