Charlie's Overhang Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
2 mins
Uphill

The first buttress encountered presents an impressive overhang which sets the heart racing of many a wary boulderer. The routes here tend to be a little high to be given V grades but they are usually soloed. Further right is the jutting Ripple Buttress and Hazel Barn to the right. Guidebook page 104.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Leather Joy Boys
Climb steeply to the break then traverse along it rightwards on knuckle-grinding jams. Probably nearer E4 than V7!
1 user comment
 
Strong
Pumpy
V7 7A+
2
Charlie's Overhang
6m. A brilliant little mini-route. Climb to the lip and contemplate the next move; then reverse to the ground ... or push on!...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
3
Newstones Chimney
6m. The awkward chimney. Starting up the crack on the left is worth VDiff.
 D
4
Moonshine
6m. The middle of the wall through a bevy of bulges.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5c
5
Praying Mantle
6m. Swarm on to the nose and finish warily through the shelving scoop above. Used to be good value at 4c!
2 user comments
 HVS 5b
6
Ripple
The super line of finger-holds is longer and harder than it looks.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
V4 6B
7
Martin's Traverse
The lower line is quite a bit easier.
 
1 Stars
V1 5b
8
Hazel Brow Crack
8m. Climb the juggy groove to bulges which are passed by moving leftwards.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
9
Hazel Barn
8m. The shallow groove (quality holds) leads to a steeper exit.
 
1 Stars
VD
10
Hazel Groove
8m. Gain the short groove in the side-wall via an eliminate problem start.
 
Technical
Crimpy
V4 6B
11
Nutmeg
8m. Climb past the solid flake onto the wall above.
 HS 4b
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  • Latest Comments

    For NEWSTONES

    Charlie's Overhang
    "Be careful if your thinking of using ropes and gear, a decent hold has been snap..." 02/Aug

    Trepidation
    "E3 5c in anything but sizzling summer heat. Does feel scary though for something..." 02/Jan

    The Witch
    "good thread near the start, but not much more gear placements on it. The upper s..." 09/Sep

    Praying Mantle
    "Indeed, the sit-start boulder problem is as good as the route... Try this one f..." 02/Jun

    The Vixen
    "There's a secret hand hold which makes cranking it easy. 2 moves, and it's in th..." 23/Mar

    Sly Corner
    "A good problem exists right of this from the two crimps up to a dish around font..." 20/Mar

    Ripple
    "OK I admit it I named the line and claim the first ascent,done circa 1977/8.Did ..." 19/Sep

    Praying Mantle
    "Worth adding the sit-start at Font 6c. H.D." 09/Aug

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