Sly Buttress Area

Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
2 mins
Uphill

The furthest buttresses at the Newstones are very pleasantly situated. They offer less for the boulderer but there is still plenty there; just follow the chalk and your imagination (or check the ROCKFAX Bouldering guide). For roped routes the cracks on Sly Buttress are of interest. Guidebook page 105.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Scratch Crack
4m. The undercut crack requires determined jamming to enter.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS 5b
2
Itchy Fingers
Climb the small wall on crimpy edges.
 
Crimpy
V3 6A
3
Bridget
The slabby corner is pleasant, try bridge-ting it.
 V0 4c
4
Rhynose
8m. Climb the easy crack in the side wall then make exposed and awkward moves in to the final groove that cuts the roof.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
5
Hippo
8m. Follow the groove and the shallow chimney through the bulges and wallow on up the front face.
 VD
6
Rosehip
8m. Climb rightwards through the lower bulges then continue up the easier flaky wall above.
 S 4a
7
The Witch
8m. Climb the groove left of the flakes then step left and wander up the mild face watching for crusty rock.
1 user comment
 D
8
Candy Man
8m. Climb rightwards up the front of the buttress over a series of bulges on the large perched flakes.
 S 4a
9
Trepidation
10m. Start on the left and climb to the left-to-right break. Take this into the centre of the wall and finish with ... well you...
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 6a
10
Sly Stallone
From a small edge, leap for the lip. The arete just to the left is a very rounded V6 (6b).
 
1 Stars
Reachy
V4 6B
11
The Snake
12m. Access the ramp with difficulty, shimmy left then crawl back along the break to reach relief in the easy chimney.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HS 4b
12
The Fox
10m. Use cunning to tackle the wide left-hand crack. Reach the loose chockstone and wrestle with this then finish more easily....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
E2 5b
13
The Vixen
10m. The right-hand crack gives excellent though short-lived jamming. Passing the initial overhang is the crux. Step left into...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
14
The Sly Mantelshelf
10m. Pull and push a way onto the left-hand edge of the elegant vein. Mantel up at its centre and finish more easily.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
15
Sly Super Direct
Gain the centre of the vein from directly below.
 
1 Stars
V2 5c
16
Sly Corner
Start around to the right and rock up onto the arete. Tiptoe along to the centre of the vein then up. Using the vein for your...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For NEWSTONES

    Charlie's Overhang
    "Be careful if your thinking of using ropes and gear, a decent hold has been snap..." 02/Aug

    Trepidation
    "E3 5c in anything but sizzling summer heat. Does feel scary though for something..." 02/Jan

    The Witch
    "good thread near the start, but not much more gear placements on it. The upper s..." 09/Sep

    Praying Mantle
    "Indeed, the sit-start boulder problem is as good as the route... Try this one f..." 02/Jun

    The Vixen
    "There's a secret hand hold which makes cranking it easy. 2 moves, and it's in th..." 23/Mar

    Sly Corner
    "A good problem exists right of this from the two crimps up to a dish around font..." 20/Mar

    Ripple
    "OK I admit it I named the line and claim the first ascent,done circa 1977/8.Did ..." 19/Sep

    Praying Mantle
    "Worth adding the sit-start at Font 6c. H.D." 09/Aug

    The Vixen
    "Desperate. I thought I could jam until I tried this. Couldn't even get into the ..." 28/Apr

    The Sly Mantelshelf
    "This is quite a serious route if you don't use mats or spotters, also the rock a..." 03/Nov

    The Fox
    "no more chockstone" 19/Aug

    The Fox
    "I'm glad you gave this E2. I thought it was really bloody awkward! An anti-class..." 11/Apr

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